I would have to check the depth of ram.......
Artillery reference......Redleg's would understand.
Artillery reference......Redleg's would understand.
2nd time in three years
- Thread starter 70NPORT
- Start date
Gary, did you ever figure out what is wrong with your car? LOL!
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Still trying work it out Bob
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Anyone else have these problems too? I think this is what might be happening to me.
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/hitempcovering.html
The description (2nd paragraph down) is almost dead on. 9 times out of 10 this is exactly what occurs. Its never been a problem before, but b/c the terminals on the mini starter do not locate in the same position as the stock starter terminals they brings the cable a bit closer to the exhaust manifold.
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/hitempcovering.html
The description (2nd paragraph down) is almost dead on. 9 times out of 10 this is exactly what occurs. Its never been a problem before, but b/c the terminals on the mini starter do not locate in the same position as the stock starter terminals they brings the cable a bit closer to the exhaust manifold.
I've heard that there is a shield for this or you could fab one pretty easy.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
But your car wont start right now correct? Without the heat....?
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Negative. It'll turn over right now.....and It started yesterday. I can't take it out until I'm sure its dependable again. This is what's driving me bananas
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Gotcha ....... Hard to diagnose a problem when it comes and goes and is playing hide and seek....
Good thought though in your link, I would have never thought
Good thought though in your link, I would have never thought
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Yeh...this is absolutely maddening. I can go out there right now and it'll turn over without so much as a whimper.....and still there's that weird "click" noise somewhere in the dash when the key is turned and won't start (its not the solenoid, that can be heard also at the same time).
I feel like goddamn Sherlock Holmes.
eliminate the impossi...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Gary, the only thing left to do is this.
With the wiring diagram in hand, start the car and let it run.
Under the hood, push, pull, jiggle and wiggle, every damn wire under there. Wires, connectors, junctions, EVERYTHING, and see if you cant' get the car to die.
If not, repeat, under the dash. EVERYTHING. See if you can make it die.
There's nothing else you can do except drive it off a cliff...
With the wiring diagram in hand, start the car and let it run.
Under the hood, push, pull, jiggle and wiggle, every damn wire under there. Wires, connectors, junctions, EVERYTHING, and see if you cant' get the car to die.
If not, repeat, under the dash. EVERYTHING. See if you can make it die.
There's nothing else you can do except drive it off a cliff...
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Well, bear with me. I was just out in the garage.Trying to approach this methodically and sanely. Battery & cables.
Start with battery
Battery charge status (eng off ): 12.60v cold.
While the car was running I put a multimeter across the batt pos & neg posts. The reading I got started at 13.4v and after about 3 mins it slowly plateaued at 13.8. Seems like the charging system is working while driving around....but not at full capacity. The literature I have says a good reading while the car is running is between 14.1 & 14.8v. Might be a bit low but something like this would not cause the intermittent starting problem...I don't think? The battery is getting a decent charge...it could not drop voltage so low that it could not spin the starter motor...even when it hot?
I need to drive the car around to get it to duplicate the occurrence (at home!) then immediately check the battery and cables with the multimeter while someone is turning the keys.
I hate this. If not for my love of fuselage/chrysler cars I would've moved on by now.
The battery voltage is important... but more important is the voltage at the starter.
I really think this is cable related. You've even just talked about the closeness of the cable to the manifold. With extra heat comes resistance.
You can check the wire resistance with a DMM but you will need to disconnect both ends so you aren't getting some sort of backfeed from the starter. Do both cables.... Battery to starter and battery to engine block.
I really think this is cable related. You've even just talked about the closeness of the cable to the manifold. With extra heat comes resistance.
You can check the wire resistance with a DMM but you will need to disconnect both ends so you aren't getting some sort of backfeed from the starter. Do both cables.... Battery to starter and battery to engine block.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I want to believe that too...cable/heat related.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Well, there's your problem LOL
Seriously, I understand the frustration.
Now we have to start with the irrational stuff.
What phase is the moon in when it happens...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Gary, humor me. We're running out of options.
Take a voltage reading at both sides of the fusible link. Should be the same of course.
Now stretch it hard and take a reading. Is there a voltage drop?
Or, heat up the fusible link with mama's hair drier on HI. Take a reading.
I need to know or I won't sleep tonight...
Take a voltage reading at both sides of the fusible link. Should be the same of course.
Now stretch it hard and take a reading. Is there a voltage drop?
Or, heat up the fusible link with mama's hair drier on HI. Take a reading.
I need to know or I won't sleep tonight...
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I was thinking maybe a disturbance in the force....Well, there's your problem LOL
Seriously, I understand the frustration.
Now we have to start with the irrational stuff.
What phase is the moon in when it happens...
patrick66
Old Man with a Hat
I decided not to wade through ten pages of responses after page five..sooo...do you have points or electronic ignition??? If points, they may not have the correct gap, or may even be burnt. If Chrysler electronic, check the gap between the reluctor and the wheel. Should be .008". If that's off, it'll start cold, but either die warm like you turned the ignition off, or die when coming from speed to idle.
And check EVERY ground you have!!!
And check EVERY ground you have!!!
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Ya might want to take a lunesta tonight.....shop is closed for the evening. First (or second) think in the morning.
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