2nd time in three years

I don't know what the actual material is but it is thicker and softer/more flexable with a much higher heat rating than battery cable.
 
FYI, the OEM battery cable (per the FSM) is #6 gauge from the positive battery terminal to the starter and #4 gauge from the negative battery terminal to the block.

If you need to know any wire sizes, look at the FSM wiring diagram. Example: the positive battery cable is A2A-6R. The 6 is wire size and the R is red color insulation.

Upsizing the cable is a good idea. You may just want to look at pre-made battery cables. Tractor Supply has some generic cables, just need to figure out the length and size you want.
 
You could make the welding cable 3 times longer with no voltage drop. There are countless times the strands of wire in the cable compared to the 20 or so in battery cable. You will have much less voltage drop with the welding cable than with standard wire or battery cable. That is why our battery cable kits we sell are the same type of cable as welding cable. You can go much further distance with far less drop and less worry about heat and abrasion issues.

Good advice there.
 
Noob here. Thought I'd chime in. I have not read all the reply's. I've had a similiar problem twice thru the years. Both different cures. but the same problem. First was on a Ram power wagon. Started good in the morning. after driving her on and off thru the day. she'd just start to drag when being started. replaced the battery then the starter. Same results. Turned out to be the negative battery cable was aluminum. The hotter it got the more resistance she'd build up and would starve the starter of juice. Copper cable cured the problem.
Second one was the starter was getting hot off the exhaust. I made a heat shield out of aluminum and it cured it.
I hate electrical demons. Hope this helps.
Scott
 
Noob here. Thought I'd chime in. I have not read all the reply's. I've had a similiar problem twice thru the years. Both different cures. but the same problem. First was on a Ram power wagon. Started good in the morning. after driving her on and off thru the day. she'd just start to drag when being started. replaced the battery then the starter. Same results. Turned out to be the negative battery cable was aluminum. The hotter it got the more resistance she'd build up and would starve the starter of juice. Copper cable cured the problem.
Second one was the starter was getting hot off the exhaust. I made a heat shield out of aluminum and it cured it.
I hate electrical demons. Hope this helps.
Scott
I THINK heat is a major component here. I HOPE it is anyways otherwise I'll be under the dashboard. Yes. electrical demons are difficult to cast out.
 
Might there be any significance to the fact these two wires were once attached to one another via a plastic/rubber piece at the end? I split it apart while handling it. This end connects to the starter motor itself. I wasn't going to bother trying to duplicate that when I make up the new cables. I'll insulate the crimp on each wire separately, then wrap the wires together with something like this further up....

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/89...2&cadevice=c&gclid=CK_D0eaH1r4CFUMF7Aodb28Adw

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That just means it was the original wiring. The two insulators were just molded in one piece so it bolted up to the starter easily.

Nothing for you to worry about.
 
I'm going to suggest something... It's what I would do and it's the simplest thing.

Go buy battery cables from NAPA. You will have to make one crimp (small power wire), bolt it to the starter and the battery and you're done.

The car survived 40+ years on the OE wire and there's a lot of other cars running around with similar wiring. You won't have to crimp the battery terminal or screw around with the Mickey Mouse bolt together terminals (that will eventually fail!!!).

You're done and you can enjoy the car today!
 
I'm going to suggest something... It's what I would do and it's the simplest thing.

Go buy battery cables from NAPA. You will have to make one crimp (small power wire), bolt it to the starter and the battery and you're done.

The car survived 40+ years on the OE wire and there's a lot of other cars running around with similar wiring. You won't have to crimp the battery terminal or screw around with the Mickey Mouse bolt together terminals (that will eventually fail!!!).

You're done and you can enjoy the car today!
You DO have a point the car survived 40 plus years without so much as whimper until this recent problem on that nasty cable.
 
I like things to be simple. Spend $25 and you're done. Drive the car.......

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Actually, it was a tad over 40 bucks...but I had to get a few extra things along with the cable. The wire for the solenoid is undamaged and the insulation is completely intact along the entire length of it...could use a good wipe to get the grime off, but other than that its going back on. I was going to attempt to make everything from scratch before you jumped in and screwed the program all up Big_J, lol. I can understand though why making it all up would at the end yield a superior set up.......but for this situation Chrysler factory replicate is good enough for me.

Many thanks BJS...I learned something I didn't know about the difference between the automotive and welding type cables.
 
So I HOPE I nailed the problem. I believe it was the extremely poor condition of the original cable....intense heat was causing greater resistance. The end that connected to the stater terminal was bare conductors that were beginning to unravel and had acid buildup in it. When the car was parked and cooled down a little it would start right up. With the intense heat not so much. This was driving crazy b/c I couldn't see the bare part of the cable down below so it was hard to understand what was going on. Anyways I got new 6' starter cable from AAP, clipped the battery end and put my own post clamp on it. So far its been ok...(since sunday) no start up problems when hot, turn the key and it kicks over without any hesitation. My thanks to all who chirped in. Keeping my fingers crossed.

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Excellent....... See you at the Ice Cream stand in Blackwood next Wednesday
Crap I forgot all about that getting caught up in the Carlisle excitement last year! Where exactly is the stand at? Details? (ie get there early to park?, etc).
 
THANKS. I don't get the easy elbow grease problems like the rest of ya (blown head gaskets, burnt valves, wiped cams, jumped timing chain, poor vacuum, blown carbs, yada yada)....no, I gotta get the ones that require goddamn digital devices and lots of guessing to f'kn chase down. geeez.
 
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