70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I believe a c body needs the notch for the idler arm. Just because it fits all b and e doesn't mean it will 100% fit a c, may work fine just something to think about.
440 Oil pressure light with hard stopping/cornering
- Thread starter 73Coupe
- Start date
I believe a c body needs the notch for the idler arm. Just because it fits all b and e doesn't mean it will 100% fit a c, may work fine just something to think about.
73Coupe
Senior Member
Yup, good question. Just installed a new sending unit cuz/ the original was seeping through the unit itself and washing oil down over the bellhousing.
The wire is snug!
73Coupe
Senior Member
There is indeed a chamfer in the sump for the idler arm... the specs on the Jeg's site don't show a lot of info. The expanded vehicle application list for the Canton Racing pan includes C bodies. BUT, it would still be best to see a drawing of the pan or photos all around before fully committing.
Edit: just found this...The gold irridite and chrome pans have the chamfer: http://store.440source.com/Oil-Pans/products/54/
I don't think I've seen an oil pan on C-body that didn't have a dent in it.
68Bigred
Active Member
Sadly last year at this time my oil light did the same. I installed true oil guage after putting in new pump and discovered 12psi at idle. Well motor came out and got rebuilt. Now 60psi. It had bad bearings. At the time my 440 only had 51k original miles, just sat too long.
66Newyorker
Active Member
http://www.manciniracing.com/maheoilpanwi.html#.VJm0CP8O7A
Check out this pan. has the notch needed, baffle and extra capacity. it's a little pricey. But it is a kit you can get 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Your pan is probably a 187 if it is not stamped. Most came with no baffle and 4 quart capacity.
For now add an extra quart in the pan, it will read over full but you should be fine
Check out this pan. has the notch needed, baffle and extra capacity. it's a little pricey. But it is a kit you can get 1/2" or 3/8" pickup. Your pan is probably a 187 if it is not stamped. Most came with no baffle and 4 quart capacity.
For now add an extra quart in the pan, it will read over full but you should be fine
73Coupe
Senior Member
Good link, thanks! I forgot about Mancini Racing. They are an excellent source for parts.
I ordered Mopar Silver engine paint from them when I rebuilt my 230 flathead 6 a few years ago.
I ordered Mopar Silver engine paint from them when I rebuilt my 230 flathead 6 a few years ago.
73Coupe
Senior Member
Update: 440 source has repro pans that are a match to the 699 or 187 pan (they say the two are identical). Also has baffle. Here: Oil Pans
Negative aspect: $250.
The link I posted above is the wrong pan for a C-body. The chamfer is there, but still needs a notch like the pan shown below.
Negative aspect: $250.
The link I posted above is the wrong pan for a C-body. The chamfer is there, but still needs a notch like the pan shown below.
73Coupe
Senior Member
I found some pics of a 933 pan with baffle. I might try to find one of these and remove baffle for retrofitting into the 699 pan that I already have.
The photos below are actually from an ad on this site from 2012: 933 Oil Pan, Windage Tray & Pick Up
And here's another one from 2015: For Sale - 933 BB oil pan and pickup
The photos below are actually from an ad on this site from 2012: 933 Oil Pan, Windage Tray & Pick Up
And here's another one from 2015: For Sale - 933 BB oil pan and pickup
I was just wondering through all of this whether you had ever replaced your original timing chain, as the plastic sprocket teeth seem to end up in the pick screen area up over time as they age and fall off the sprocket.
73Coupe
Senior Member
Nope, I have never opened the front cover up. That's a good point though, something I was unaware of.
Bottom line is I need a new motor. It's going through a quart every 800-1000 miles. Still runs great, but the clock is ticking. Looking for a 440 long block I can rebuild on the side, and drop in place of the existing. In the mean time, I need it for 200 miles a week and will continue to nurse it. Despite its age and "rude awakening" it received upon my purchase (when I started to drive the hell out of it), the ol' 440 sure has been dependable.
73Coupe
Senior Member
I finally installed a dual system - gauge along with the idiot light.
I don't think I'll leave the gauge in place permanently, mainly because it was just for a status check, and I don't want to clutter up the dash with any more stuff.
But - it this gauge is correct, I have about 35 psi at idle hot, and 70-80 psi at speed, hot. 10w-30.
What is considered "ok" for a 440? This seems "not too bad" to me. I'm burnin' oil at the rate of 1qt/1000 miles, but at least the bearings seem ok.
130k miles on the motor, never been out, still driving the hell out of it!
I don't think I'll leave the gauge in place permanently, mainly because it was just for a status check, and I don't want to clutter up the dash with any more stuff.
But - it this gauge is correct, I have about 35 psi at idle hot, and 70-80 psi at speed, hot. 10w-30.
What is considered "ok" for a 440? This seems "not too bad" to me. I'm burnin' oil at the rate of 1qt/1000 miles, but at least the bearings seem ok.
130k miles on the motor, never been out, still driving the hell out of it!
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I wonder if perhaps your valve stem seals have perished allowing oil to get sucked down the valve stem and burned away in the combustion chamber. Another member here replaced his seals, and his oil loss problems went away.
Also, given the kind of oil pressure numbers you have, I doubt your engine is in serious need of a rebuild. I would install a new timing chain (as Steve suggested) along with new valve stem seals and see how things look then.
GJS
Senior Member
My wire was .. for some bizarre reason .. tucked up under the valve cover. By that I mean the end that is supposed to connect to the sender was left INSIDE the valve cover when it was last installed. Over time, the insulation wore off the wire between the head and the gasket. Whole lotta good that was doing.
73Coupe
Senior Member
I did the valve stem seals a couple year ago. They were rock hard! Then I replaced the intake gasket which was leaking like a sieve. That helped cut down on the plug fouling, but I still have consumption and now running hotter plugs to burn off the oil. Must be oil control rings. Compression test was done at the same time and all cylinders were about 150 and within a few psi of each other.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Still sounds like your engine is in reasonably good shape. What kind earl are you using?
73Coupe
Senior Member
The Duke kind.
lol... usually Valvoline high mileage, or a store brand made by them (parts master, napa)
I might try 15w-40 on my next change to see if that helps with the consumption.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I'm running Brad Penn 20 - 50.
rapidtrans
Senior Member
+1
My gto had a spun bearing causing the dreaded oil light on at idle once engine warmed up.
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