'65 New Yorker bringing it back to life thread-

Some minor BS you're dealing with. Don't give up on her. She's a real nice ride!

That ballast resistor looks like a wiring issue. It's just a big resistor... could have just been bad, or you have a wiring issue as already stated... to the coil. Carb floats are probably stuck. Tap lightly along the sides and see if that helps. Maybe needs a rebuild.
Again.. BS stuff.

regarding the resistor - 65 383 ignition issues
a little more.. from A-Body - but still the same system
Hot Ballast Resistor
 
The white thing?

The white thing? Ballast resister. Drops voltage to coil. It gets warm, but shouldn't smoke.... Check wiring to coil


Thx for the lead. I'll check it out.

It was very hot and definitely smoking. Too hot to touch.
 
Some minor BS you're dealing with. Don't give up on her. She's a real nice ride!

That ballast resistor looks like a wiring issue. It's just a big resistor... could have just been bad, or you have a wiring issue as already stated... to the coil. Carb floats are probably stuck. Tap lightly along the sides and see if that helps. Maybe needs a rebuild.
Again.. BS stuff.

regarding the resistor - 65 383 ignition issues
a little more.. from A-Body - but still the same system
Hot Ballast Resistor


I'll check out those links. I am betting the carb needs rebuilt...

I wont give up on her, just more issues than planned. The way the car was described when bought was- new gas tank, new gas/brake lines and new tires and she will be good to go...
 
regarding the resistor - 65 383 ignition issues
a little more.. from A-Body - but still the same system
Hot Ballast Resistor

In the first link, C body bob wrote-

You can burn the contacts up leaving the switch on. Not sure why the ballast would start smoking with the engine off.

The car had stalled, and key was turned on...hope that was it.

Also, from the second link-

too had a problem just like yours. Mine was the wire going from the coil to the dist. It only had a couple of hairs that were not broke. Car would run fine for awhile then just die. Let it set for 15-20 minutes and it would start right back up. Fixed the wire and haven't had any problems with it since. Just another idea to look at.

I'm going to check all wires. The car runs nice on warm up, then beautiful till hot...then just dies...and doesnt want to run well or at all after- figured it the carb, but now...

Appreciate all the help everyone. I'm kinda a shade tree mechanic, who knows basics and with proper info/direction can perform almost any fix- but mostly '80's+ chevys and fords. The whole Mopar issues are almost all new for me.

I didn't own the Cordoba long enough to learn much, the St. Regis barely ran and I was a poor kid at the time...and the Aries (2.6 Hemi) and Omni were mid to late 80's...so your guys help has been invaluable to me- Thank You!!
 
Forgot to mention, I did get everything cleaned up, rocker and pushrod replaced, valve unstuck, and put back together.

Unplugged the coil and drained the gas, test turned the key over a bunch of times to make sure all operated as it should-


Thx!!! Will do!!
Did you soak that valve in PB blaster? Pull the lifter out? Why did it stick?
 
Did you soak that valve in PB blaster? Pull the lifter out? Why did it stick?

I shot marvel mystery down the rods to travel to the lifter, waited a couple days, shot it with wd40, waited a day, shot the lifters with seafoam a few times, waited, the marvel mystery right before reassembly.

After the marvel/wd40/seafoam, the lifter removed freely with an extension magnet.

After reassembly, I disconnected coil and gas, then hit the key real slow over and over with valve covers off and watched everything operate with a flashlight.

I will be idling the motor a few times a day, to get it warm and through all the internals, then change the oil/filter, and continue slowly breaking in this old motor slowly, a bit at a time.
 
I think it stuck from buildup. The car was last driven in 2001, and rarely started since then.
 
Did you soak that valve in PB blaster? Pull the lifter out? Why did it stick?

I'm betting on crappy gas that turned to varnish - which caused the intake valve to stick - which caused the rocker to hang and bend the push rod. I would PB Blast ALL the intake valves and make sure none of them hang. I would also put one ounce of marine 2-cycle oil (with TC-W3 additive) to every five gallons of gas in the tank. Do this with every fillup. The 2-cycle oil will provide a little lubrication to the valve guides, will help keep the plugs clean and lubricate the ring pack on your pistons. Over time, the lubed ring pack will yield better compression. I have done this with all my cars for many tears and they run noticeably better. My old panhead Harley loved the stuff. . . You can buy the marine 2-cycle oil by the gallon at Wally World for about $14.00.
 
I'm betting on crappy gas that turned to varnish - which caused the intake valve to stick - which caused the rocker to hang and bend the push rod. I would PB Blast ALL the intake valves and make sure none of them hang. I would also put one ounce of marine 2-cycle oil (with TC-W3 additive) to every five gallons of gas in the tank. Do this with every fillup. The 2-cycle oil will provide a little lubrication to the valve guides, will help keep the plugs clean and lubricate the ring pack on your pistons. Over time, the lubed ring pack will yield better compression. I have done this with all my cars for many tears and they run noticeably better. My old panhead Harley loved the stuff. . . You can buy the marine 2-cycle oil by the gallon at Wally World for about $14.00.


I've heard about the TC-W3, I'll give it a shot, thx for the info.
 
Looked up the head casting numbers-

4006452 – 1976-1978, 400/440 B/RB-series big-block, 2.08/1.74 valves, 81.5cc
 
I'm betting on crappy gas that turned to varnish - which caused the intake valve to stick - which caused the rocker to hang and bend the push rod. I would PB Blast ALL the intake valves and make sure none of them hang. I would also put one ounce of marine 2-cycle oil (with TC-W3 additive) to every five gallons of gas in the tank. Do this with every fillup. The 2-cycle oil will provide a little lubrication to the valve guides, will help keep the plugs clean and lubricate the ring pack on your pistons. Over time, the lubed ring pack will yield better compression. I have done this with all my cars for many tears and they run noticeably better. My old panhead Harley loved the stuff. . . You can buy the marine 2-cycle oil by the gallon at Wally World for about $14.00.

What gas do you run with this? I added the lead additive in my last tank, but in Long Island it's a ***** trying to find ethanol free gas. Do you have to change the carb mixture as well?
 
What gas do you run with this? I added the lead additive in my last tank, but in Long Island it's a ***** trying to find ethanol free gas. Do you have to change the carb mixture as well?

I have only ran it about 30 minutes total since I got it- premium pump gas, no additives.
 
Found out today though that before I got i . It ran on regular pump gas for years. No additives.
 
Had alot going on with the kids and wife today, so didn't get to mess with the car at all.

Decided to start it up, let it run a bit...didn't seem to want to run, gave a little gas to get it idling- shotgun backfire, blew up my muffler....

Not touching it again tonight...

20200419_165825.jpg
 
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