65 New Yorker, first project car

[Big_John]

I have a 66 Newport and at a minimum would like to get a dual master cylinder. Any suggestions, the car has a single chamber, power drums.

I've done this conversion a few times now.

The drum brake MC fits a bunch of cars and as said, a listing for a '67 Chrysler with drum brakes will get you what you want. As said, it bolts right up.

As @Scoopy G mentioned, Inline Tube has a distribution block that will work very well. I'll take it a step farther and suggest looking at this: 1965-66 Dodge C-Body Dual Master Conversion M/C Lines w/Block, OE Steel I suggest this as it will have all the correct fittings for the MC. It's a little pricey, but it might save some work and searching for the correct MC fittings.

A couple things... First, remember that the front half of the new MC goes to the rear brakes and rear half to the front brakes. I'd suggest replacing all three rubber brake lines if it hasn't already been done and if you are ever thinking of going to DOT5 silicone brake fluid, this is a good time to do that. I'd at least flush the old fluid. Also, if you have the factory Auto Pilot (cruise control), the new MC will interfere with it.

 

[Ripinator]

It would probably help a lot if you gave us some idea about what the mechanical issues are. Don't give an "everything" answer... You need to methodically list what the car needs and then prioritize. Then you need to look at that list and ask what you can do yourself. Always put brakes first with suspension being a very close second.

Once you have figured that out then that will help find the proper shop. For example, if you need suspension work, you might not want to go to a shop that specializes in air conditioning. With that in mind, there are a lot of jobs that can be done at home without needing years of mechanical experience... and some that an inexperienced guy might want to have someone else do.

Another thing that I see here quite often is getting bad advice from mechanics. A lot of the "updates" that are recommended are just good ways to waste your mo

Always put brakes first with suspension being a very close second.

@Ross Wooldridge

 

[Richard54]

Thanks. It looks like NAPA has a booster and MC for a ‘67. I’ve had decent luck with them over the years, for this application, have you?

 

[drtrubs]

Need some help. Just moved from Ohio to Virginia and was able to get a lift and start working on the car myself. As I was cleaning it I noticed one of the freeze caps missing and replace incorrectly. How hard are these to remove and replace?

 

[Omni]

Good Afternoon
Not hard IF you have the proper tools.
The problem will be the ones that aren't accessible. ( back of block ).
What shape is the cooling system in?
If it is questionable, you might have to bite the bullet and pull the motor and replace them from there.
Been there,done that.
Omni

 

[drtrubs]

Good Afternoon
Not hard IF you have the proper tools.
The problem will be the ones that aren't accessible. ( back of block ).
What shape is the cooling system in?
If it is questionable, you might have to bite the bullet and pull the motor and replace them from there.
Been there,done that.
Omni

We replaced the radiator when we bought the car. Noticed some dripping coolant when cleaning it. Think it is blowback from a loose drain screw.
The ones photoed are the middle two freeze plugs (left closest to the fire wall in photo).

sounds dumb, but would you replace them all or just the incorrect one?

Feel like im going to end up taking the engine out....

 

[Omni]

We replaced the radiator when we bought the car. Noticed some dripping coolant when cleaning it. Think it is blowback from a loose drain screw.
The ones photoed are the middle two freeze plugs (left closest to the fire wall in photo).

Feel like im going to end up taking the engine out....

If any of the other frost plugs show signs of corrosion, then the R&R of the motor is your best option. The rubber plugs are a temp fix. If one of the steel plugs failed, chances are the others are not far behind. Replace with brass.
Not the end of the world, you can re-gasket the bottom end (possible windage tray addition), clean/paint engine/engine bay.
If you do pull the motor, do a compression test first. If it needs attention, now would be the time.
I ended up doing this to the "Party Barge" 65 Newport. Had 60k on the clock ended up being punched .030 over.
Good Luck and don't get discouraged.
Omni

 

[Big_John]

Need some help. Just moved from Ohio to Virginia and was able to get a lift and start working on the car myself. As I was cleaning it I noticed one of the freeze caps missing and replace incorrectly. How hard are these to remove and replace?
View attachment 704723

That's a rubber expansion plug. While it's not the best way to replace the core plug, it's an OK option when you can't get at the plug to knock a new one in. Unless it's leaking, I wouldn't be in a huge rush to replace it. I've had them in a couple used cars and they lasted as long as I needed.

A better "in car" replacement is one of these: Dorman Products - 02483 (Doublecheck the size). I understand that boat engine builders use these in new builds as they work better in that application. Again, that lets you put the new plug in if you can't get at it without pulling the engine. These will probably last as long as one that's pressed in, if not longer.

If you can get at the plug to put a new one in, that's always good too, but sometimes you can't get at the core plugs with the engine in the car.

 

[Just Carbs]

Try to punch them sideways without putting a hole in them, then pull them out.

 

[CBODY67]

The OTHER situation is also doing a complete block cooling passage purge with the plugs removed. Gets all of the accumulated "residue" out of the block for better coolant flow and heat removal. While it can be best to do all of them, the only ones we replaced were the ones actually seeping, which were the two middle ones on the lh side. No pulling anything apart, doing it with the car on a body/chassis lift.

What you might do is replace just the bad ones on the lh side and then plan on doing the others later on, when funds are saved for the ultimate "while you're here" labor operations, with the motor removed.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Scoopy G]

I recall when I got my 65 NYer 3 years ago, the cooling system was somewhat clogged up and rusty. I recall I had a weeping freeze plug, so I put the car on the lift and banged out the bad freeze plug by hammering a screwdriver into the plug and prying it out.

I remember there was another suspect freeze plug, so I hacked that one out as well. Then, I jammed the garden hose into one of the holes and flushed the block out. I might have run some radiator flush in the thing, then re-flushed it.

I ordered some freeze plugs off ebay probably, and carefully tapped those plugs back in the holes, probably using some wood dowell to hammer them in. It wasn't too difficult with the car on the lift.