66 Monaco Wagon A/C Resurrection

[Davea Lux]

Thanks to the responses here and many past threads on this subject I've decided to with the Sanden compressor / underhood line conversion rather than try to keep the RV-2. One thread by John @live4theking impressed me with his conversion - Converting from RV-2 to Sanden
He used the BPE mounting brackets and bought everything else separately. What are the advantages or disadvantages of doing this versus buying a full BPE conversion kit?

Depending on where you buy the parts, you might be able to scavenge individual parts cheaper than buying the kit That having been said, the kit supplies everything you need and is a whole lot more convenient. Comes down to whether you consider the slightly higher cost of the kit versus doing the leg work to find all the parts to be worth the effort..

Dave

 

[TxDon]

I'm still researching but I am pretty sure I will be dealing with Bouchillon for my conversion parts. Due to the rear mounted second evaporator on my car I am planning on retaining the existing tee fittings and lines that service it and would like to reuse the large suction line that goes to the dash evaporator (pictured) with a new expansion valve. The old expansion valve uses an equalizer line the screws into a fitting on the metal suction line, I assume removing this opens the line to atmosphere. This equalizer is not needed with the new compressor, does anyone know how I could close up that fitting and reuse the line?

 

[TxDon]

Due to the rear mounted second evaporator on my car I am planning on retaining the existing tee fittings and lines that service it and would like to reuse the large suction line that goes to the dash evaporator (pictured) with a new expansion valve. The old expansion valve uses an equalizer line the screws into a fitting on the metal suction line, I assume removing this opens the line to atmosphere. This equalizer is not needed with the new compressor, does anyone know how I could close up that fitting and reuse the line?

Maybe I should restate my question a different way. Is there any reason I CAN'T use an expansion valve WITH the equalizer / oil line installed? (hint) I already own a new valve like this...

 

[Davea Lux]

It wont hurt anything to use it even though it is not really needed with R-134a. These were an expansion chamber designed to give excess liquid refrigerant a place to go and evaporate so as to help prevent icing of the evaporator or condenser. Also helped on the return line to keep liquid from getting into the compressor and hammering the pistons in low temp operations, think defroster dehumidifier.

Dave

 

[LocuMob]

What's the cost of resurrecting to RV-2 vs swapping to the Sanden compressor?

 

[TxDon]

What's the cost of resurrecting to RV-2 vs swapping to the Sanden compressor?

That's the $64 question. (Old guy reference) Seems to be many opinions on how much has to be changed on the swaps so I am still bouncing around. All the swap vendors say you have to rip everything out under the hood and start over (naturally) so the cost is high. If I was more confident in the quality of the rebuilt RV-2 units not sure if I would be looking at the swap.

 

[TxDon]

I was looking at the stock A/C system today, most of those coupling joints use some pretty large fasteners. I'm assuming the best tools to take them apart with would be tubing flare wrenches but I don't have anything close to those sizes. What have you all used and where are good places to find them?

 

[Davea Lux]

These bigger tubing fittings can usually be removed with a quality open box wrench and moderate heat. I would try soaking the nuts with a good penetrating oil before I went with the heat. If all else has failed, pipe wrench!

Dave

 

[Polara_500]

I've always used my 12" Crescent. No slips yet.

 

[TxDon]

These bigger tubing fittings can usually be removed with a quality open box wrench and moderate heat. I would try soaking the nuts with a good penetrating oil before I went with the heat. If all else has failed, pipe wrench!

Dave

I'm searching through the many tool boxes I inherited from my Father-in-Law who worked at the Chicago Transit Authority to see if I have all the large wrench sizes. I do also have a good 12" Crescent...

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Personally I'd go the Sanden route and I've done it both ways. I've converted the R2 compressors from R12 to R134 and converted to Sanden compressors from R12 to R134. (The mid and late '80s Mopar stuff were with Sanden compressors using R12) The Sanden is bullet proof compared to the R2 and R2's with a new clutches are like hens teeth to even find in today's world. FYI, the "O" ring sealing the crank shaft coming out of the front of the Case that is Key-wayed for the clutch and is the Achilles Heal of the Tecumseh R2 compressor. Flush out your system WELL AND COMPLETELY by braking all the connections. I personally use Brake Clean and more then one can to clean AND COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN AND FLUSH the system. THE BRAKE CLEAN EVAPORATES QUICKLY BUT BREAKS UP THE CRUD AND COMPRESSED AIR WILL BLOW IT ALL OUT so it's one and then the other. Pick up a set of new metal gaskets and a COMPLETE SET OF GREEN "O" RINGS THAT WILL BE R134 FRIENDLY and you won't use either of the complete sets and they're cheap. Plus a 6oz. can of 134 oil, with the conversion fittings ALL IN ONE KIT FOR $35- $50 and 3-4 cans of 134 FLUID FOR ANOTHER $45 OR SO AND GET AFTER IT. A new dryer is always a good $20 investment idea too to start with for the swap. If you have issues ask questions. Theirz more the a few of us here that have been where you're getting ready to go. AND I'M ON THIS SITE 7 DAYZ AH WEEK LIKE MOST OF US OLE' FARTZ . Oh Yeah. And If you go to Brownsville or Laredo and get caught crossing back to this side with R12 on board, Our US Customs seems to think it falls into the same category az Opium or Pot, WHO KNEW? Jer

 

[TxDon]

I'm searching through the many tool boxes I inherited from my Father-in-Law who worked at the Chicago Transit Authority to see if I have all the large wrench sizes. I do also have a good 12" Crescent...

Mission accomplished! I think these will do the job.

 

[TxDon]

Oops... picture

 

[TxDon]

I've spent a lot of time searching threads here and also on For B Bodies Only as well as a number of vendor sites, thanks to @commando1, @live4theking, @Polara_500, and many others for a lot of good information. I'm going for the Sanden conversion using the SD7H15 larger displacement unit because of the dual evaporator setup on my car. I'll use the Bouchillon 4710 mount kit but I think I'll cherrypick the rest of the parts from different sources rather than use an underhood kit, I'm looking at Coldhose and Nostalgic Air among others.

 

[TxDon]

A question for the experts: The large suction line coming out of all the Sanden compressors is a#10 size. While I do not have any lines or fittings yet to look at that appears be quite a bit smaller than the giant factory line on my car now, see pics. Because of my rear unit I want to leave and reuse the factory tee fittings and the hose / hardline that goes to the firewall. These fittings have nuts that are 1 1/4" wide so I assume I will a stepdown adapter fitting to connect my new #10 line to that tee. Does anyone know what size those factory lines are and did anyone run into this? Can you recommend a source for such an adapter? Thank.

 

[TxDon]

I think I have answered my own question. After a deeper online dive I'm about 90 % sure the large lines are #12 size. I have now ordered all my parts except for hose and fittings but I did order a #12 male end and a #10-#12 stepdown adapter to try out. Once I'm sure they fit I'll run a new #12 suction hose between the compressor and that tee. Once this first batch of parts arrive I'll get going and will share progress here.

 

[TxDon]

OK here we go, my first batch of parts has arrived. I sprung for a genuine Sanden SD7H15 compressor from Cold Hose, the BPE 4710 Mount kit, and condenser, mounts, and thermo switch from Nostalgic AC Parts. I got a set of hardline compressor fittings from NAP that move the hose connections to the side, I'm planning to run the lines toward the drivers side. Not shown are a new expansion valve and filter drier that I already had. I also got a hydraulic crimping tool set from ebay, there were a lot of these available within a crazy price range and I picked the low end. The system has already been evacuated so I'll start the teardown soon.

 

[TxDon]

I backed the wagon into the rear bay of my tandem garage today, that will be it's home for awhile as I tear down the old system. I covered the floor with plastic since I'm planning to do a little cleaning and painting under the hood while things are apart.

 

[TxDon]

The teardown is underway. I made this sketch a couple nights ago so I could order my fittings from Cold Hose, ordered a few extras since they are not really too expensive

 

[TxDon]

Yesterday I pulled the large suction and high side lines with the mufflers and removed the RV2 compressor. That compressor mounting is an amazing bit of Chrysler engineering - bolted to a massive cast iron bracket attached to the engine at three points PLUS 2 large top braces bolted to the intake PLUS a steel bracket attached to the exhaust manifold PLUS 2 steel struts bolted to the water pump housing! When that 60 lb. pile of steel was removed I now have plenty of room to work on the top of the engine... Why did Chrysler feel they had to overdo the mounting?