carguy300
Well-Known Member
That IS the truth!
'66 Newport 2 Door hardtop
- Thread starter darth_linux
- Start date
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Brake Master cylinder upgrade, part 1:
Using aluminum foil to catch debris as I sanded the booster with a wire wheel mounted to a drill.
The paint came right off, so I took the whole thing down to bare metal. Well, most of it. Didn't do the back half . . . also using foil for masking purposes.
Using Rust Reformer as a primer.
Rust Reformer coat applied. Let it dry in the 85 degree sun for about 15 minutes and it was ready.
For the top coat I'm using Ace Satin Black.
Final coat applied.
Here's the MC mocked up just to see how it will look. I applied 3 coats of clear satin enamel to preserve the cast iron look.
Used foil to mask the distro-blocks bracket.
Distro-block and bracket cleaned up and painted.
Using aluminum foil to catch debris as I sanded the booster with a wire wheel mounted to a drill.
The paint came right off, so I took the whole thing down to bare metal. Well, most of it. Didn't do the back half . . . also using foil for masking purposes.
Using Rust Reformer as a primer.
Rust Reformer coat applied. Let it dry in the 85 degree sun for about 15 minutes and it was ready.
For the top coat I'm using Ace Satin Black.
Final coat applied.
Here's the MC mocked up just to see how it will look. I applied 3 coats of clear satin enamel to preserve the cast iron look.
Used foil to mask the distro-blocks bracket.
Distro-block and bracket cleaned up and painted.
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darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Brake master cylinder upgrade, part 2:
Adapters I needed: 1/4” compression cap and union(?) to plug off the unused hole on top of the distribution block. 1/2”M to 3/8”F and 9/16”M to 3/8”F adapters for the MC and a 3/8" union to join the line from the MC to the rear brake line feeder.
2x20" 3/16" brake lines were sufficiently long.
Front brake line bent to fit. Kind of like a large "Z".
Here's the fitting I needed for the rear brake line coming from the MC.
Both brake lines bent and fitted.
Here you see the rear brake line going directly from the MC to the line that runs to the back axle.
MC filled and ready to be bled.
MC all bled, cover fitted. Looking sharp!
View from the side, everything all buttoned up. I'll bleed the wheel cylinders tomorrow and take her for a test drive.
Adapters I needed: 1/4” compression cap and union(?) to plug off the unused hole on top of the distribution block. 1/2”M to 3/8”F and 9/16”M to 3/8”F adapters for the MC and a 3/8" union to join the line from the MC to the rear brake line feeder.
2x20" 3/16" brake lines were sufficiently long.
Front brake line bent to fit. Kind of like a large "Z".
Here's the fitting I needed for the rear brake line coming from the MC.
Both brake lines bent and fitted.
Here you see the rear brake line going directly from the MC to the line that runs to the back axle.
MC filled and ready to be bled.
MC all bled, cover fitted. Looking sharp!
View from the side, everything all buttoned up. I'll bleed the wheel cylinders tomorrow and take her for a test drive.
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carguy300
Well-Known Member
Very nice work!
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Got my fuel gauge working today. As I suspected, my float was more of a “sink” and it was full of gasoline. I put a new float on and the fuel gauge now works. I paid about $15 for the float I believe on Amazon. The float is made by APC and is part #FM-EF005B.
I’m in need of a new strainer, so I’ll be sourcing one of those soon and I’ll pull the sending unit out again to change that. Figured it’s gone this long - what’s one more tank of gas gonna do right?
The sending unit is a Mopar 258-0624 – I wonder if this could be the original sending unit?
As suspected, the gauge does not read accurately. “Full” is just over a quarter tank, and “half full” is just about an eighth of a tank. But it’s better than nothing, so I’ll go with it!
I’m in need of a new strainer, so I’ll be sourcing one of those soon and I’ll pull the sending unit out again to change that. Figured it’s gone this long - what’s one more tank of gas gonna do right?
The sending unit is a Mopar 258-0624 – I wonder if this could be the original sending unit?
As suspected, the gauge does not read accurately. “Full” is just over a quarter tank, and “half full” is just about an eighth of a tank. But it’s better than nothing, so I’ll go with it!
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It can be adjusted, as far as I know. My old school rad shop guy did as I sat in the car. Not sure what he did, but he did it. Others here may be able to chime in on the process.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Pulled all 4 drums today to rebleed the cylinders and do a visual inspection. The PO did indeed replace all the wheel cylinders, hardware, hard and soft brake lines, and front brakes drums and shoes. He did not replace the rear drums or shoes even the he took it all apart to replace the wheel cylinders and hardware. Slightly disappointed by that, but oh well. It gives me something to do in July.
I was expecting the front drums to have integrated hubs, but nope, they slipped right off without any futzing about with cotter pins and castle nuts. These are 11x2-3/4. Maybe the 11x3 use the integrated hub …
I was expecting the front drums to have integrated hubs, but nope, they slipped right off without any futzing about with cotter pins and castle nuts. These are 11x2-3/4. Maybe the 11x3 use the integrated hub …
fury fan
Senior Member
Somebody modified the drum/hub, then. The drums are always affixed to the hub.
Great work on the rest of everything!
Great work on the rest of everything!
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
This weeks project has three parts: 1) install the water temp sending unit 2) install the correctly angled water neck to fix clearance issues with the AC compressor and air cleaner snorkel 3) replace and/or reroute some spark plug wires that had incorrect boots or placement.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Somebody’s been here before!
I know that the AC system had already been discharged, so upon opening it to take things apart I found a mixture of black and green O-rings.
The new thermostat housing fixed all of my clearance problems between it, the upper hose, the AC compressor, and the air cleaner. And, my water temperature gauge now works. No leaks anywhere. I have a slight Miss now in the engine after changing some spark plug wires out, so I need to find which wire/plug is not firing correctly. Other than that, this was a great success.
I know that the AC system had already been discharged, so upon opening it to take things apart I found a mixture of black and green O-rings.
The new thermostat housing fixed all of my clearance problems between it, the upper hose, the AC compressor, and the air cleaner. And, my water temperature gauge now works. No leaks anywhere. I have a slight Miss now in the engine after changing some spark plug wires out, so I need to find which wire/plug is not firing correctly. Other than that, this was a great success.
Nice. As you likely know, the green O rings are R134A compatible, and are used whenever a fitting has been opened.
Git'er charged up and enjoy your AC. My 66 T&C has the most ridiculous AC I've EVER experienced... it doesn't seem to matter what refrigerant I used - it just gets killer cold.
Because R12 is nearly impossible to find, and is expensive, and R134A is so regulated now, I have been using the commercially available Butane type stuff you can get at the store.
Check out the vent temperature - and for all you naysayers saying it doesn't work properly, it does, and has been doing so for years with absolutely no issues. Just don't use too much of the refrigerant... it's like a frick'n deep freeze in my car...
Git'er charged up and enjoy your AC. My 66 T&C has the most ridiculous AC I've EVER experienced... it doesn't seem to matter what refrigerant I used - it just gets killer cold.
Because R12 is nearly impossible to find, and is expensive, and R134A is so regulated now, I have been using the commercially available Butane type stuff you can get at the store.
Check out the vent temperature - and for all you naysayers saying it doesn't work properly, it does, and has been doing so for years with absolutely no issues. Just don't use too much of the refrigerant... it's like a frick'n deep freeze in my car...
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ross. I don’t think I’m quite ready to get this thing charged up yet. I have no idea what condition the dryer/receiver is in, nor the condenser, and I can see where someone had sort of resealed the evaporator valve area where the little copper tube goes into the big black tube. I also don’t know if the compressor itself is any good. But at least the compressor is not sitting on top of the upper radiator hose any longer!
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Welp, it turns out I spoke too soon. Apparently Permatex #2 non-hardening is not right for thermostat housings. Time to do it all over again …
Using PermaTex 22071 water pump and thermostat housing gray RTV.
Using PermaTex 22071 water pump and thermostat housing gray RTV.
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fury fan
Senior Member
FWIW, I've always had good luck with a paper gasket and this stuff: for T-stats, 8-3/4" gearsets into the axle housings, and some engine stuff.
I can't think of hte last time I used RTV on the car, but I do use RTV-type stuff around the house.
I can't think of hte last time I used RTV on the car, but I do use RTV-type stuff around the house.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
All done. Gonna let it cure over night and then fill her up and test for leaks again; better not be any!
rags
Senior Member
same here. would sooner make a gasket from the side of a corn flakes box than use rtv for this. awesome car though and great work your doing with it generally.
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
QUARTER WINDOW REGULATOR REPAIR PT. 1
rear seat out
door panel removed
water guard removed
glass removed - two spring circlips and one small bolt held the glass to the regulator assembly
here's where the bolt was
here is where the 2 spring clips were for the nylon rollers
ready to remove the front and rear tracks, plus the parallel adjustment track
here's all of the parts on the bench. new kit is on the bench as well, but doesn't appear to contain all that I need
here are the 2 sliders for the front track and the double roller for the back track
I have a hardtop finally!
rear seat out
door panel removed
water guard removed
glass removed - two spring circlips and one small bolt held the glass to the regulator assembly
here's where the bolt was
here is where the 2 spring clips were for the nylon rollers
ready to remove the front and rear tracks, plus the parallel adjustment track
here's all of the parts on the bench. new kit is on the bench as well, but doesn't appear to contain all that I need
here are the 2 sliders for the front track and the double roller for the back track
I have a hardtop finally!
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Give us the verbal accompaniment too, please!
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
yes, editing now. I'll post a separate write up in the Interior Forum once I figure it all out
darth_linux
Well-Known Member
Here’s the whole thing loosely reassembled on the bench showing what new parts I’ll be using. The rebuild kit I got from Classic Industries was for B Bodies, so I knew it wouldn’t be perfect. Turns out about half the kit won’t work for C bodies.
Luckily some of the parts are salvageable and between the kit and the two sides, I think I can make it all like new again.
More details in a future post.
Luckily some of the parts are salvageable and between the kit and the two sides, I think I can make it all like new again.
More details in a future post.
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