'67 Imperial Crown Coupe now added to the collection

Damn.. lol. oh I wasn't complaining. Lol just making mention.

I was able to return the 1411 and exchange for the 1806. That's why I deal with Summit, they don't hassle returns. I bought the calipers and hardware from Harmon Classic Brakes. Not cheap $355.00 per caliper. I hope my rotors clean up
DSC08849.JPG
DSC08849.JPG


DSC08820.JPG
 
I was able to return the 1411 and exchange for the 1806. That's why I deal with Summit, they don't hassle returns. I bought the calipers and hardware from Harmon Classic Brakes. Not cheap $355.00 per caliper. I hope my rotors clean upView attachment 113210 View attachment 113210


Now your cookin! Good work rotors look ok from what I can see. You will need the throttle lever adapter off your old Eddy and make sure you use the FSM for correct return spring position and kickdown linkage adjustment. The fun is just beginning!
 
Have your new calipers been re-sleeved with stainless steel? Does that include a core deposit or did you buy them outright?
 
Last edited:
Have your new rotors been re-sleeved with stainless steel? Does that include a core deposit or did you buy them outright?

$355.00 is for each caliper which
DSC08778.JPG
he had on the shelf in stainless. Plus another $200.00 each core charge. They normally work on customers send- in. He had the complete set of hardware including hard and rubber lines and appropriate master cylinder and brake pads. He has the rotors but I'm hoping on mine.
 
This is the first I've seen of reproduction pads. I wonder how long they've been available? I paid about the same for NOS(asbestos) from Craig. I'm assuming these are at least semi-metallic which I understand will reduce rotor life.
 
This is the first I've seen of reproduction pads. I wonder how long they've been available? I paid about the same for NOS(asbestos) from Craig. I'm assuming these are at least semi-metallic which I understand will reduce rotor life.

I don't know if they (pads) were original or repro, just said he had 1 pair left for $95. so to include w/shipping I said ok, T
DSC08846.JPG
his is the passenger-side. The drivers-side has been leaking for a long time, this side is dry.
DSC08835.JPG
 
I have the alternator over at a shop, told them to inspect and replace worn items and if possible up-grade to 60 amps since that's what BS calls for .
 
Hi, We're changing out the heater hoses and upper and lower radiator hoses for 67 Imperial w/28" radiator. Would anyone have current part# and vendor, aftermarket is fine. Thanks
 
The radiator hose in the pic still has a wrapper on it!
 
yes i know, that's an old napa# and i will research, just looking for options? Is the heater hoses 5/8"?
 
Last edited:
yes i know, that's an old napa# and i will research, just looking for options? Is the heater hoses 5/8"?

Yes, The NAPA# turned out to be good. 7602 for the top and 745 for the bottom. While I have my alternator out being serviced and upgraded I thought I'd get the radiator cleaned and water pump
DSC08947.JPG
DSC08942.JPG
rebuilt @A Gould in NY.

Recent pix of my English lab "LEO" @ 5 months old
 
Nice work! I'm really looking forward to your review of your new carb.
 
Nice work! I'm really looking forward to your review of your new carb.

Matt, I'm getting prepared to install my new carb tomorrow and while reviewing pix I see they previous owner had the choke wired to the coil which I believe is wrong. Where did you wire yours? On some of my cars I've wired to the positive side of the ballast resistor if I remember correctly? And I know this is a
DSC08934.JPG
dumb question, but the new 1806 does fit the factory manifold correct?
 
If one Eddy fit they all do...yes tap the run side of the resistor for the electric choke. Must have 12V to operate properly. Sorry for jumping in here Matt
 
No worries, I think he was just looking for the right answer. Not only is that not the right place to power the choke it is downright dangerous because it is not fused and if it shorted it would continue to burn as long as the car was running. Bet thing to do is run a wire to the fuse block and tap into an already fused 12 volt circuit.
 
Back
Top