68 Polara restore back on

[bigmoparjeff]

That sounds like a lot of work just reading it, let alone actually doing it.

I've fought with those windows on the '65-66 coupes, but not sure about a fasttop.

A decade ago I parted out a '68 Polara coupe, but I don't remember if I removed the 1/4 windows. The car was nothing special, rusty, dented, blown-up 318, and no title. I did manage to find and inspect the radio for you, but it wasn't much better than what you have. The chrome is starting to peel off the volume knob, and the bezel is pitted.

Jeff

 

[HWYCRZR]

Roof rail seals in. Now just have to adjust the windows and possibly the roof rail. Seems there is no less than 10 things you can adjust to get it right, meaning adjustments are a crap shoot.
Key is not to glue the seal until everything is adjusted.

 

[ImpJay]

You did just as great job as usually!

 

[HWYCRZR]

Front windows close on drivers and passenger side.
Have in and out set about right. I need to lift the rear of the window about 1/16”. On the passenger side I got lucky and only needed minimal tweaking. I ended up setting the FSM in the car and explicitly followed the directions. That helped with what to adjust first and to better understand the system as a whole.
Now for the back qtr windows.

 

[HWYCRZR]

The way the front window seal sits concerns me. Should it be tucked in to form a bulb when the door is closed like at the top of the picture, or overlap like at the bottom. Any pictures of a ‘67 or ‘68 2dr ht in this area would be appreciated.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

What I see is not correct - I don't have a picture but I know that's off.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I did a little more adjusting on the roof rail on the A pillar. The weather strip is in training. Hopefully it takes a little set. This looks right.

 

[Fratzog]

My 68 Monaco 500 old restoration not by be. This is what it looks like.

 

[Fratzog]

Sorry about repeat photos. Why put edit option for posts at bottom when you can't remove photos? Must be a placebo thing...end of rant.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I did a little more adjusting on the roof rail on the A pillar. The weather strip is in training. Hopefully it takes a little set. This looks right.
View attachment 220986 View attachment 220987

I think that your the weatherstrips have possibly been installed left to right (left side on the right side and vice versa)... there should not be that much rubber visible as I see in your photos. I think the fatter part of the extrusion should be on the inside edge pehaps?

 

[HWYCRZR]

They can only go in the channel one way, so they are not backwards, plus the upper sealing surface is correct.

I just checked my old. The difference is the outer portion is not folded over as much on the new compared with the original. Which actually should help sealing. I think after a little training it will take a little bit of a set and fold in properly. Even after just a few hours it is starting to settle in.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Interesting - I restored a 66 and used new R.R. weatherstrips and I don't remember there ever being that much rubber visible... and the gap between my vent window frame and the window pillar seemed much narrower in my memory...

Any chance your doors or the vent window assemblys need to move forward within the door itself?

 

[HWYCRZR]

They really can’t slide forward as the one pivot is pretty much fixed up and down and fore/aft. The main adjustment is the front pivot which allows it to angle forward or backward to level the front window. Also the windows seem to be where they are supposed to go. Too much further forward and the rear qtr would be too far forward. Plus the inside of the door hits the seal about right.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Found one of the windows before I took them out. It looks to be about the same gap.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Interesting!

 

[owen martin]

Hello , I’m wondering how you made out with the melted bulkhead as I had a similar problem years ago and I believe it was due to too much power draw from the ac fan motor and a tin foiled fuse!? I am hoping to go the full route of full tear down and rotisserie but I didn’t realize you could split the front frame from what I thought was a unibody style car. So how did you finish your wiring and bulkhead and taking the back windshield out scares me as to not break the glass and most importantly there is no one reproducing the rubber gasket? Body work is so expensive n that will be my hurdle and I’m having trouble finding better 500 wide anodized outer moldings so if you know where I might find them it would be so fantastic.... thanks for you insight n help and I would sure like to see your finished car here

 

[HWYCRZR]

Hi Owen,
First step if you haven't done so is get a FSM ( Factory service manual) and parts manual. A google search should find you some to download for free. A bench top copy which is very handy in the shop can usually be found on E- bay.
The melted bulk head is due to the ammeter connection. On these cars the alternator power goes through your bulkhead connector through the ammeter and powers everything. There are some discussions on this board on how to by pass the ammeter which could prevent this in the future. Also using dielectric grease and clean connectors helps this. New bulkhead connectors are available on E-bay and are your best option if yours is melted. As for the wires I went through each individually replacing brittle or cracked wires and connectors. It is time consuming, but so is chasing electrical gremlins later. The proper wire wrap ( looks like black electrical tape but in non adhesive) is available on Amazon or Year One (look under any Mopar Catalog, it may be more expensive but right), Also get a roll of the black cloth style harness tape. If you are going to re- do your harness lay it out on a peg board or something that can string it out. Take lots of pictures and mark any pigtails coming out of the harness so that when you re- wrap they are in the proper place.
The front Stub Frame is held on by 8 bolts plus the transmission support. A rotisserie restoration is very expensive if you don't have the body work skills ( I didn't). What ever some one quotes plan on doubling or tripling it. If your floors are good and you only need fender repair you may be better off leaving the stub frame on.
In 68 the rear window did not use a gasket but sealed in with black goo. I believe it was the same on 67, but not 100% sure. A parts manual and FSM would verify the seal type. If it a black goo seal you can take thin piano wire stick it through the goo and have a helper saw around the window to remove the goo. Full disclosure, I did not take mine out. The restoration shop that put it on the rotisserie removed it.
Anodized trim can be a life time search. It is model specific and different with in the models and one year only. Find the proper part number and start doing searches. They come around once in a while, but expect to pay $400 - $800 for a NOS set. Partsvoice.com is a good search tool for NOS items. If you still have your trim, it may be worth while seeing if you can restore it. You do have to remove the anodizing first.

 

[owen martin]

Hi Owen,
First step if you haven't done so is get a FSM ( Factory service manual) and parts manual. A google search should find you some to download for free. A bench top copy which is very handy in the shop can usually be found on E- bay.
The melted bulk head is due to the ammeter connection. On these cars the alternator power goes through your bulkhead connector through the ammeter and powers everything. There are some discussions on this board on how to by pass the ammeter which could prevent this in the future. Also using dielectric grease and clean connectors helps this. New bulkhead connectors are available on E-bay and are your best option if yours is melted. As for the wires I went through each individually replacing brittle or cracked wires and connectors. It is time consuming, but so is chasing electrical gremlins later. The proper wire wrap ( looks like black electrical tape but in non adhesive) is available on Amazon or Year One (look under any Mopar Catalog, it may be more expensive but right), Also get a roll of the black cloth style harness tape. If you are going to re- do your harness lay it out on a peg board or something that can string it out. Take lots of pictures and mark any pigtails coming out of the harness so that when you re- wrap they are in the proper place.
The front Stub Frame is held on by 8 bolts plus the transmission support. A rotisserie restoration is very expensive if you don't have the body work skills ( I didn't). What ever some one quotes plan on doubling or tripling it. If your floors are good and you only need fender repair you may be better off leaving the stub frame on.
In 68 the rear window did not use a gasket but sealed in with black goo. I believe it was the same on 67, but not 100% sure. A parts manual and FSM would verify the seal type. If it a black goo seal you can take thin piano wire stick it through the goo and have a helper saw around the window to remove the goo. Full disclosure, I did not take mine out. The restoration shop that put it on the rotisserie removed it.
Anodized trim can be a life time search. It is model specific and different with in the models and one year only. Find the proper part number and start doing searches. They come around once in a while, but expect to pay $400 - $800 for a NOS set. Partsvoice.com is a good search tool for NOS items. If you still have your trim, it may be worth while seeing if you can restore it. You do have to remove the anodizing first.

Hi Owen,
First step if you haven't done so is get a FSM ( Factory service manual) and parts manual. A google search should find you some to download for free. A bench top copy which is very handy in the shop can usually be found on E- bay.
The melted bulk head is due to the ammeter connection. On these cars the alternator power goes through your bulkhead connector through the ammeter and powers everything. There are some discussions on this board on how to by pass the ammeter which could prevent this in the future. Also using dielectric grease and clean connectors helps this. New bulkhead connectors are available on E-bay and are your best option if yours is melted. As for the wires I went through each individually replacing brittle or cracked wires and connectors. It is time consuming, but so is chasing electrical gremlins later. The proper wire wrap ( looks like black electrical tape but in non adhesive) is available on Amazon or Year One (look under any Mopar Catalog, it may be more expensive but right), Also get a roll of the black cloth style harness tape. If you are going to re- do your harness lay it out on a peg board or something that can string it out. Take lots of pictures and mark any pigtails coming out of the harness so that when you re- wrap they are in the proper place.
The front Stub Frame is held on by 8 bolts plus the transmission support. A rotisserie restoration is very expensive if you don't have the body work skills ( I didn't). What ever some one quotes plan on doubling or tripling it. If your floors are good and you only need fender repair you may be better off leaving the stub frame on.
In 68 the rear window did not use a gasket but sealed in with black goo. I believe it was the same on 67, but not 100% sure. A parts manual and FSM would verify the seal type. If it a black goo seal you can take thin piano wire stick it through the goo and have a helper saw around the window to remove the goo. Full disclosure, I did not take mine out. The restoration shop that put it on the rotisserie removed it.
Anodized trim can be a life time search. It is model specific and different with in the models and one year only. Find the proper part number and start doing searches. They come around once in a while, but expect to pay $400 - $800 for a NOS set. Partsvoice.com is a good search tool for NOS items. If you still have your trim, it may be worth while seeing if you can restore it. You do have to remove the anodizing first.

------Well thanks for all this info and yes I think my floor boards are ok and i will attempt to just get the Quarter Panels that I bought a couple years ago installed to save $$. I do own a shop manual but not a parts manual and looks like I need that as I didn't realize the back window was just the caulking gun style goop they are using to this day. I find that strange as when I enquired a few days ago, at a couple of the old car window glass and gasket manufacture and sales (Dante's) , they said they do not make this anywhere and I bought the gasket for the front windshield a few years ago? That would be great and if so in my '67 Monaco 500 I will remove and fix the rust and put it back in. The wide anodized body side moldings are on the 67 & 68 but very hard to find NOS complete and ridiculous $$ for any piece I have seen on ebay,... so much so that it never seems to sell. The bulkhead is on ebay and hope its good for any model and accessory's as I have powered seats , windows and ac and I appreciate the info on the ammeter controlling the power and maybe thats a main problem on these cars? I didn't help the issue of to much draw when I tin foiled the fuse to keep the heater motor fan going so when I attempt to reinstall a new bulkhead and go over some rewiring etc I will be installing a new fan motor to not create this overheating again. I am not as talented as you but I have patience enough to get the job done and as long as that AC dash doesn't need octopus hands and I can find door window motors I think I can get a decent finish on these intricacies. The problems I anticipate will be the electric rewiring, seat and window motor repair or purchase and install. I really enjoyed your expose and your long journey to expertly finish your beautiful C car and I have yet to go further to see the finished product of your sweat n tears and $$ of joy.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I have been working on my trunk harness routing. I was concerned that I was missing my little metal straps in the trunk on the light panel. It turns out ‘68 Dodges are different from Plymouth and Chrysler and also different from ‘67. I think I have it resolved now. Harness is routed inside the filler panel so no clips. If anyone has additional pictures of a ‘68 Polara trunk harness paste it in the thread below.

'67 -'68 Polara, Monaco,500, Show me your rear (trunk wire harness)

 

[HWYCRZR]

I decided to pull my right side wheel well trim out of the attic. I got one piece in 2009 and another in 2010. Both NOS. I am still looking for left side. I did get the right side installed.
A little clean up with the buffer and they look new.