'69 Fury III Convertible Build Thread- Project IVY

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Strengthening Ribs I'm not sure of yet, Trying to find a local shop with a bead roller, not having luck.

As far as I can tell the drains are clogged up pretty bad, going to drill out a few places in the low spots to let it drain a bit better.

 

[cm23uoc]

I would strongly recommend these ribs with such a large area as the trunk floor. You can also carve out such a form out of hard wood for example and hammer the sheet metal over it, that's what I did when I replaced about a third of a 60 Chevrolet trunk floor.

 

[bluefury361]

You might want to coat everything that is rusty with a "rust converter". It is a product that will chemically react with existing rust and change it to carbon, stops rust dead. You can paint over it once dried.


Several companys offer it online, just google "rust convertor". It only works on rusted surfaces, not much help on clean metal.

 

[bluefury361]

Trying to find a local shop with a bead roller, not having luck.

I went to a commercial A/C fab guy who was able to make a nice floor pan, darts and all, for my 300. I photographed and measured all the OEM drain holes and drilled them myself once the floor was welded in place.

 

[1978 NYB]

You might want to coat everything that is rusty with a "rust converter". It is a product that will chemically react with existing rust and change it to carbon, stops rust dead. You can paint over it once dried.


Several companys offer it online, just google "rust convertor". It only works on rusted surfaces, not much help on clean metal.

I use POR-15, it's expensive but well worth it. I could only find it on line, I haven't found it on the shelve in any store.

 

[polara71]

Like everything else you can find it at Carlisle

 

[tbm3fan]

I use POR-15, it's expensive but well worth it. I could only find it on line, I haven't found it on the shelve in any store.

The best rust converter I have run into is Corroseal. You brush it on at about 10 mils thick and let it cure 24 hours. Converts rust and provides a primer type coating for your color coat or tie coat. Actually similar to Eastwood's Rust Converter except one costs $53/gallon vs. $32/quart and works better. I always buy 2 gallons on line and have it shipped for about $120 total to me. If it is good enough for the US Navy and MARAD then it is good enough for the Hornet and my cars. I have never liked POR-15 for 1) too expensive and 2) doesn't hold up in tough environments.

http://www.corroseal.com/

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

The rust left it going, not leaving rusted metal under new metal like previous owners have, the rest will be cleaned bare and Coated with a Paint a friend who owns a bodyshop recommended, works the same as POR 15 except it costs less (with my discount mind you) and can be put straight on top of Rust, it seals it and keep Air and moisture out.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Oh and CM23 I'm thinking that will be how I end up doing it, building a form and beating it in with my Pick Hammer, well I'll start with the bumping hammer.

 

[Stormer]

Trying to find a local shop with a bead roller, not having luck.

I went to a commercial A/C fab guy who was able to make a nice floor pan, darts and all, for my 300. I photographed and measured all the OEM drain holes and drilled them myself once the floor was welded in place.

Yep, most commercial roofers have sheet metal shops too. Plenty of good sheet metal shops in most cities. It ain't rocket science.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

First off, no I do not sleep, second off I finally cracked my Build date dilema using a few decoders and a decoding book, my car has a 1969 Model year code but a 1970 Build sequence with it being the 17, 398th car built in the 1970 model year.

Nick

 

[polara71]

my car has a 1969 Model year code but a 1970 Build sequence with it being the 17, 398th car built in the 1970 model year.

Nick

Now I'm confused .......

 

[cm23uoc]

Should be rather unlikely as 1970 model year started in fall 1969 as used to be the rule back then.

 

[polara71]

That is what I am referring to . Nothing about that made sense. I didn't know there was a build date dilemma

 

[commando1]

 

[1978 NYB]

Does the production unit number on the fender tag and the VIN match?

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Yes it does, My car also has some Factory installed 1970 parts, and was built right around the time they would have been changing over to the 1970's.

 

[commando1]

Impossible. Something is getting lost in the communication here. You can not have a VIN showing it to be a certain model year and a production number from another year. Yes, a late 69 could have some 70 parts or an early 70 could have some 69 stuff. We have seen or heard of this many times. My own very early build 76 New Yorker in fact shows that a few hung over assembly line worker bees had forgotton they were no longer building a 75 Imp. As always, a pic of the VIN will clear things up.

(Sent using Forum Runner)

 

[polara71]

Thanks Stan.... Yeah, please post a photo of your fender tag...

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

They're is or was a photo in farther back in this topic.

Nick