This car really needs a period correct Airstream behind it. Or towing a vintage restored wooden Chris Craft speed boat on a trailer. But, that would require I set up a “GoFundMe”, at this point...
The wagon just gets more and more beautiful as the trim and shiny bits go back on....more of these for Ya'....
PS Gotta give props to Mike and his team in metro Charlotte at Atlantic Wraps, they did the little strips on the end of the wing for free. They do good work.
Oh yeah. That’s its own project. It’s really in decent shape, I just want someone who really knows A/C to go through it. I got my compressor and condenser rebuilt by Original Air and am waiting to get the whole system inspected component by component, with parts replaced where needed, and put back together by some qualified hands. I don’t want it to just be slapped together and “hope for the best”.
And thank you.
Everything has been coming together beautifully for you...
Thank you for the detailed comments on A/C. I appreciate the perspective on the need for diligence on all the components. It’s a more complex system with the rear A/C. Greater possibility for stuff to go sideways. I am concerned about getting any debris cleared out of the system prior to hook up of new components, and that existing components all be confirmed as good. I plan to have a good chat with the A/C technician before turning over the reigns.Everything has been coming together beautifully for you...
FWIW, your plan is good on the A/C stuff, but you should also know that there is always a "wait and see" aspect to rebuilding an A/C system. SPX Corp. (Robinair,OTC,Kent Moore, Miller) makes adapters to pressure test the individual components, but the temperatures the system cycles through aren't duplicated and extremely small leaks can cause a system to discharge regularly.
My guess is that your shop will want to add a leak detection dye when recharging, and I would suggest that you try to operate the system through several thermal cycles before any heroic reassembly of interior components. Cars that would leak down in just a day or two, might only leak significantly when the evaporator has been brought to freezing and metal has contracted, and then the engine turned off so that higher pressure equalizes into that component. That kind of factor has always made small leak detection a challenge and airflow and moisture will give false readings on an electronic leak detector, which leaves lots of room for debate as to which component may be at fault. At least with the dye, there should be some evidence after the fact, even if you get stuck having to remove a component again to find/prove it is at fault.
The bigger issue as that the components are clean, so your rebuilt heat exchangers are wonderful and with a good compressor and hoses, there should be little risk of contamination which could cause compressor damage or clog a TXV.
Thank you for documenting everything so well here, these are always the best threads.
