73 Monaco wagon

[MonacoBlue]

So...drove the car to TN from NC, to get interior work done. Acceleration started to get really weak. It would get up to highway speed, but had no power going uphills or leaving from a stop. Has anyone ever experienced this? I seem to recall someone posting about actuator rods wearing down and getting short over time? Could that be the culprit?

 

[1970cat]

fuel filter good?

 

[MonacoBlue]

fuel filter good?

You know...that’s an obvious, good question to ask. It should be ok. It has been replaced twice in three years. I’ll have to check it. Easy quick replacement item to swap out.

 

[mopar440]

Is it not shifting down to 1st, taking off in 3rd? Does seem odd. Carburator newer?

 

[MonacoBlue]

I tried “manually” shifting down to 1st but that didn’t seem to make any difference. Carb was a Autolite(?) Rock Auto replacement, 2 years ago.

 

[mopar440]

Autolight? That don't seem right, post a pic of it and any numbers, like to know what it is

 

[mopar440]

Also check fuel pressure, should be 6-6.5. even need pumps can be bad, and pump shaft can wear, causing issues

Oriellys has a heck of a rental set

 

[MonacoBlue]

Autolight? That don't seem right, post a pic of it and any numbers, like to know what it is

It’s already in this thread....waaay back...I posted some pics before it was installed.

 

[MonacoBlue]

It’s the standard Holley 2bbl carb that Rock Auto sells, rebuilt by an outfit called Autolight? Autolite? (Not to be confused with Ford spark plugs.)

 

[MonacoBlue]

“Autoline”, it’s a Holley 2210. Back on page #8 of this thread.

 

[saforwardlook]

Hi Scott,

I ran into the same problem on my 1973 Monaco coupe with the 400-2 bbl Holley carburetor and also got mine as a rebuilt from Autoline as well. I never over tightened the wing nut so the air horn on mine stayed good after their rebuild. I doubt it is the carburetor.

I was pretty frustrated when my Monaco started doing much the same thing as your Monaco wagon and it really knocked me for a loop - until I finally figured it out. I would have never guessed, but apparently Chrysler built those specific models with dual wall exhaust pipes from the engine to the single exhaust pipe junction. I Just figured the fact that the car was bogging down meant that the exhaust was restricted and thought initially that something must have happened in the muffler, but there were no rattles or anything going on inside it. So I finally decided after a lot of frustration to pull the exhaust system off the car and inspect every part of it (single pipe system). Then I saw the problem immediately when I looked down the pipe at that junction and saw the collpased wall. I was truly shocked to see that!

The problem turned out to be a collapsed inner wall of that dual wall set up due to heat and cycling over time. My car was doing exactly what you are describing. I would strongly suggest you pull that exhaust pipe off and have it checked out.

I detailed my experience in this thread....................................

engine idle problems

Good luck!
Steve

 

[MonacoBlue]

Hi Scott,

I ran into the same problem on my 1973 Monaco coupe with the 400-2 bbl Holley carburetor and also got mine as a rebuilt from Autoline as well. I never over tightened the wing nut so the air horn on mine stayed good after their rebuild. I doubt it is the carburetor.

I was pretty frustrated when my Monaco started doing much the same thing as your Monaco wagon and it really knocked me for a loop - until I finally figured it out. I would have never guessed, but apparently Chrysler built those specific models with dual wall exhaust pipes from the engine to the single exhaust pipe junction. I Just figured the fact that the car was bogging down meant that the exhaust was restricted and thought initially that something must have happened in the muffler, but there were no rattles or anything going on inside it. So I finally decided after a lot of frustration to pull the exhaust system off the car and inspect every part of it (single pipe system). Then I saw the problem immediately when I looked down the pipe at that junction and saw the collpased wall. I was truly shocked to see that!

The problem turned out to be a collapsed inner wall of that dual wall set up due to heat and cycling over time. My car was doing exactly what you are describing. I would strongly suggest you pull that exhaust pipe off and have it checked out.

I detailed my experience in this thread....................................

engine idle problems

Good luck!
Steve

Thanks so much for sharing, Steve. I had the shop put a dual exhaust set up on my car. So I am thinking that wouldn’t be a possibility at this point, would it? Pipes go from the manifold to the muffler now.

I give it the gas from a dead stop and it just has zero power.

 

[mopar440]

You have a dial timing light? Put on on and rev it up, I wonder if the timing is advancing correctly

 

[saforwardlook]

Thanks so much for sharing, Steve. I had the shop put a dual exhaust set up on my car. So I am thinking that wouldn’t be a possibility at this point, would it? Pipes go from the manifold to the muffler now.

I give it the gas from a dead stop and it just has zero power.

Sorry Scott, that wouldn't be an issue now then I would think. Given the 44 pages in this thread so far, I have a hard time keeping track of all the upgrades...............!

Just curious, when you put the pedal to the floor, do you hear the engine struggling (deep moan sound for example). Does it feel like the wheels won't turn because the brakes are stuck or any other insights?

 

[MonacoBlue]

The car is at an interior shop and out of
my immediate possession at the moment. I was so concerned with just getting the car to the shop and getting back home (my buddy gave me a ride and I didn’t want us to delay getting back - long drive) that I didn’t do something I should have done when I got it there - put the car in Park and rev the engine a bit to check throttle response. Decouple a potential trans issue from a potential fuel/engine issue. I’ll have to check it when I go back.

 

[MonacoBlue]

Sorry Scott, that wouldn't be an issue now then I would think. Given the 44 pages in this thread so far, I have a hard time keeping track of all the upgrades...............!

Just curious, when you put the pedal to the floor, do you hear the engine struggling (deep moan sound for example). Does it feel like the wheels won't turn because the brakes are stuck or any other insights?

Steve, what would be the symptoms of a torque converter going bad? I have also heard of people talk about “bands slipping” or “bands needing adjustment” in transmissions. Is that something that might apply to a 727, and if so, how would it manifest?

 

[saforwardlook]

Steve, what would be the symptoms of a torque converter going bad? I have also heard of people talk about “bands slipping” or “bands needing adjustment” in transmissions. Is that something that might apply to a 727, and if so, how would it manifest?

All I can say Scott is that I have never had a torque converter failure so I am really not sure, but that is among the possibilities if the stator has given way. If a band has gone bad, I would think you would experience the slipping long before it fails as bad as what you are describing. I also have never had a band or clutch fail so badly that all of a sudden or in a relatively short trip it would get as bad as yours appears to be. The 2 - 3 shift is a clutch shift, not a band, so if all this is going on in third gear then a failed clutch could well be the issue. That is why it would be very helpful to have some information as to how hard the engine is working when the car will hardly move and you would also need to determine whether the RPMs are limited or ???

 

[Mr C]

Are the fuel lines okay? I had pinholes in a fuel line that would suck air and gave me fits in trying to diagnose the low power problems it gave me. There was no leak (puddle) the lines were just wet looking in spots and I really had to search to find the issue.
Replaced the lines with new steel and I was good to go.

 

[Beep Beep Dave]

If you eliminate the exhaust as being an issue and the engine itself is in good mechanical condition (if you haven't...a compression test may be in order...how do the plugs look and what are you using)...it comes down to the ignition or fuel system. I would start by looking at the plugs and see if they have any information to share. If you are looking to upgrade to a 4bbl this may be a good time.

Don't worry....everybody's car throws a curve at them once and awhile. That's how you learn things. Frustrating at times sure, rewarding once you get it sorted out.

Dave

 

[MonacoBlue]

If you eliminate the exhaust as being an issue and the engine itself is in good mechanical condition (if you haven't...a compression test may be in order...how do the plugs look and what are you using)...it comes down to the ignition or fuel system. I would start by looking at the plugs and see if they have any information to share. If you are looking to upgrade to a 4bbl this may be a good time.

Don't worry....everybody's car throws a curve at them once and awhile. That's how you learn things. Frustrating at times sure, rewarding once you get it sorted out.

Dave

Dave,

What kind of 4bbl would you recommend? I see ads recommending an electronic throttle body. In discussions I have heard the 4bbl (sadly) wouldn’t add that much more power to the car, even with the dual exhaust it now has, but that a 4bbl would improve driveability. I understand the 400 would need new heads and cam along with a 4bbl, to get noteworthy power gains. Then there is the 451 stroker option, which is appealing, but I am also told a crate 5.7 would cost less and be more driveable. And the purists would probably come after me with torches and pitchforks for even thinking such thoughts. Ha ha. Right now I just want to get the car together and drive it with an interior, before winter starts. I would be happy if I could just get it to run right in stock configuration. I sure did like the extra responsiveness I felt when I took all the seats out for recovering, however!

I would like to keep it looking stock under the hood.