Aftermarket Steering Wheel on '71 Tilt and Telescope column

[Rubatoguy]

Hello, I have a '71 Chrysler 300 that was originally equipped with a tilt and telescope steering wheel and rim blow steering wheel. The original steering wheel needs restoration so I got a Grant TUFF reproduction steering wheel to use.
The TUFF wheel mounts fine, except that the steering wheel is not locked to the column so it can travel up and down while you are driving. This proves to be a bit distracting. I looked at the parts I have from the original wheel to try to see if there was a way I can just lock the wheel in place. There is one bolt in the center of the steering wheel, and I did put a bolt there, but it had no effect on locking the wheel - so I am wondering if I am missing a part somewhere.

Here are some photos of the original wheel and mechanism, I was hoping someone might be able to tell me what part I may be missing, or what the trick is to lock the wheel in place without the adjustment level.
Thank you

Todd

 

[CBODY67]

Don't know about how to lock the telescope function out, but I am glad to know the Grant Tuff wheel will work. My '70 Monaco Brougham has a tilt column and the Rim Blow wheel on it (which I want to delete!!).

CBODY67

 

[Rubatoguy]

Yes, it fits well and, I think, looks good. I have seen some comments that it is best to use a reproduction horn ring (the part with the contacts ) rather than the grant one which is in my photos and is rather flimsy. I have not tried the horn function yet, as I discovered my car has the horns disconnected at the moment and I want to get the wheel fixed first. The way the lock on the telescope function seems to work, as far as I can tell, is that moving the lever cams the center bolt up and down, so if I am very lucky, the solution may be as simple as finding the correct length bolt and tightening, maybe adding washers to pull up whatever the bolt screws into. Finding a schematic of the device would be helpful.

 

[CBODY67]

Yes, it fits well and, I think, looks good. I have seen some comments that it is best to use a reproduction horn ring (the part with the contacts ) rather than the grant one which is in my photos and is rather flimsy. I have not tried the horn function yet, as I discovered my car has the horns disconnected at the moment and I want to get the wheel fixed first. The way the lock on the telescope function seems to work, as far as I can tell, is that moving the lever cams the center bolt up and down, so if I am very lucky, the solution may be as simple as finding the correct length bolt and tightening, maybe adding washers to pull up whatever the bolt screws into. Finding a schematic of the device would be helpful.

View attachment 723763

The horns were probably unplugged due to the horn switch on the Rim Blow wheel expanding and self-actuating the horns. That is what mine did, when the interior temp got over 80*F. The dealer told me the horn did not work when I bought the car. When I diagnosed the situation, I found a crispy-crittered horn relay, under the relay's cover. A new relay and it was "fixed", until the spring weather got hot one day and they went off at work.

Read the FSM for instructions on how to remove the horn switch. Being that my switch was hard, I suspected total destructin of it to get it out AND THEN a very tedious installation procedure. On similar Fords, the switch is squishy and taller. GMs were somewhere in between.

I bought a new Rim Blow from Chrysler. It was black rather than the desired Nile Green, so then ideas on how to paint the black were investigated. Never to happen. The new wheel with the new switch in it were installed several years ago, BUT the new switch gets hard with age.

During the "fixed" original horn situation, I also had to replace the turn signal switch. Seems the brass spring which holds the sliding contact on the back of the turn signal cancelling cam gets weak as it gets hot with the continued constant horn blowing, such that it drops back into its tower housing. Took a while to figure that one out! In those days, I was lean enough to use my feet to depress the lock plate to get the wire retainer clip out. I also discovered that a carefully bent paper clip would work. Later, I discovered it was identical to what GM used on their lock plates, too. Similar family lineage as they are both Saginaw columns?

I suspect your quest to get the horns operational will lead to a new horn relay and new turn signal switch, from my experiences in the later 1970s.

Take care,
CBODY67