Ammeter bypass

To follow up on this subject a bit, as a result of a more recent promotion of this by-pass as making the original system “safe”, without any mention of the added risk by a self-proclaimed Mopar expert YouTuber. I have posted some demonstration videos about this “shunt wire” by-pass and some other related Chrysler electrical issues. Includes my experience with and a demonstration of the above-mentioned C-body charge path recall some here with a pre-externally shunted ammeter may be interested in.

I watched the video. Great stuff!

One question on the "recall wire". Does that have a fusible link in it? I'm going to make the change with my '70 300 to this layout, rather than the "bypass" that I did a couple years ago and it seems to me that a fusible link would make sense in that wire.
 
I watched the video. Great stuff!

One question on the "recall wire". Does that have a fusible link in it? I'm going to make the change with my '70 300 to this layout, rather than the "bypass" that I did a couple years ago and it seems to me that a fusible link would make sense in that wire.
No fusible link was part of the recall wire as I recall, not really needed there to parallel the alternator output feed to splice 1. In the stock system, stock alternator, the battery is the only source of power with enough current potential to light up the 12 ga unfused wiring in the event of a short circuit. The stock fusible link would blow on a short in either alternator feed wires.
 
No fusible link was part of the recall wire as I recall, not really needed there to parallel the alternator output feed to splice 1. In the stock system, stock alternator, the battery is the only source of power with enough current potential to light up the 12 ga unfused wiring in the event of a short circuit. The stock fusible link would blow on a short in either alternator feed wires.
I had to wrap my head around it, but once I did, I understood. Your wiring diagram helped with that.
 
I had to wrap my head around it, but once I did, I understood. Your wiring diagram helped with that.
Didn’t think about it at the time, I could have emphasized in the videos more, this C-body recall approach as an alternative to the “Shunt wire” (direct alternator to battery) by-pass on other platforms as well that use that same fuse box. Includes ’70-74 E-bodies, ’71-74 B-bodies. A little more work for the older fuse boxes but could be done. Pretty simple to install, relieves much current stress on the single alternator feed Packard terminals, retains the factory circuit protection, and does not mess with the ammeter accuracy.
 
Didn’t think about it at the time, I could have emphasized in the videos more, this C-body recall approach as an alternative to the “Shunt wire” (direct alternator to battery) by-pass on other platforms as well that use that same fuse box. Includes ’70-74 E-bodies, ’71-74 B-bodies. A little more work for the older fuse boxes but could be done. Pretty simple to install, relieves much current stress on the single alternator feed Packard terminals, retains the factory circuit protection, and does not mess with the ammeter accuracy.
There's no reason why this can't be applied to other bodies. As you say, those are the easiest ones to do.

I think the '66 up fuse block could be done by connecting to the rear of block, right to the bus. Yes, more work, but I don't think it would be that hard.

'65 and down have that nice bolt on connection that eliminates the Packard connectors for battery and alternator connections, so I'd say it's not needed for them.
 
65 and down have that nice bolt on connection that eliminates the Packard connectors for battery and alternator connections, so I'd say it's not needed for them.
Yes, the engineers that created original design for that bulkhead charge path connection got it right. The early sixties bulkhead screw terminal connector. Aways believed the bean counters made the call to use Packard’s instead, likely saved a fraction of cent and a few seconds on the assembly line per car. Then again, nothing about these cars was ever designed to last more than a few years, until the next trade-in.
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While here, what causes an ammeter to fluctuate rapidly on idle?
I have found this mostly on late 60s b bodies. We're the ammeters overly sensitive?
 
While here, what causes an ammeter to fluctuate rapidly on idle?
I have found this mostly on late 60s b bodies. We're the ammeters overly sensitive?
Likely the relatively low alternator output at idle of the early stock alternators in relation to whatever loads are taking place. Some issues with the thru ’69 mechanical regulator can cause that as well.
 
One question on the "recall wire". Does that have a fusible link in it? I'm going to make the change with my '70 300 to this layout, rather than the "bypass" that I did a couple years ago and it seems to me that a fusible link would make sense in that wire.
Following up a bit on the C-body recall discussed here, I stumbled on link to a Chrysler part number 3940087 over on an E-body site recently. Haven’t seen one of these in a long time, appears to be one of the mentioned C-body recall wires. Pretty much what I remember from 50 years ago with a few exceptions, there IS a 16ga fusible link incorporated, an extra female Packard connection on the firewall side, the wire run from the alternator ring terminal to the fusible link is 10ga. Can’t seem to figure out why a fusible link would be placed in the location it is. The fuse box connection is in fact split into two female Packards to connect to both back and front sides of the fuse box battery buss, that I remember now. Strange too, there seems to be quite a few of these NOS wires still floating around for sale fairly cheap, paid about $15 for it. Claims to be NOS, pretty crusty but appears to have never been installed.
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there IS a 16ga fusible link incorporated
Good to know. It makes perfect sense to me to have that circuit protected somehow.

I was going to do this with my '70 300 when it comes out of winter hibernation in the next week or two, so that's great timing.
 
Some issues with the thru ’69 mechanical regulator can cause that as well
I've heard that solid state regulators will have a much smoother/more consistent power output. Wouldn't be surprised if that stops any gauge fluctuations, if not greatly reducing it.
The Regitar C524 ones are fairly cheap and apparently work well with a very steady voltage, at least from what this Studebaker forum thread says about it. The drawbacks are that a) they're made in China, for better or for worse and b) they have a pretty high output voltage - with ignition on and no load, 14.8V, and up to 15.3V at higher rpms; the OP of that thread figured that a 2.6kΩ resistor could be soldered in place of the surface mount 2.4kΩ resistor to drop the charging voltage down to 14V as per below pic.
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The OP of that thread also noted that after doing this mod, his alternator was "considerably" cooler charging at 14.3V instead of 15.3V which is always a good thing. If you do get this particular regulator, it may be worthwhile doing this to save yourself electrical headaches in the long term.
 
Good to know. It makes perfect sense to me to have that circuit protected somehow.

I was going to do this with my '70 300 when it comes out of winter hibernation in the next week or two, so that's great timing.

This was a '72 and up part, but could probably work for previous years too?
I think my former '73 NYB had this harness installed on it when I got it. I'll have to check photos.
 
This was a '72 and up part, but could probably work for previous years too?
I think my former '73 NYB had this harness installed on it when I got it. I'll have to check photos.
The '70 fuse block is pretty much the same as a '73, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

As we discussed a few posts back, I think '66 and up is a good candidate, just have to hook to the bus in the back of the fuse block.
 
The '70 fuse block is pretty much the same as a '73, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

As we discussed a few posts back, I think '66 and up is a good candidate, just have to hook to the bus in the back of the fuse block.

This "recall harness" is something that could easily be made from scratch. I'm not sure how they splice in the link portion but that could be connected with packard terminals as well, or just soldered and heat shrink-wrapped. The factory link connection looks like it was vulcanized onto the wire in a mold.

What does the under hood side of this harness connect to?

The alternator. Unsure about where the Packard connector goes...
 
I'm not sure how they splice in the link portion but that could be connected with packard terminals as well, or just soldered and heat shrink-wrapped. The factory link connection looks like it was vulcanized onto the wire in a mold.
IMHO, soldering the fusible link isn't a good idea. The wire in the link can wick the solder up pretty easily, even if you are good at soldering. Makes the connections stiff and easy to break along with changing the point at which the fusible link does its job and burns out. Good quality crimped butt connectors covered with heat shrink would work.
The alternator. Unsure about where the Packard connector goes...
The Packard connectors go to the battery feed bus. See Post #91
 
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