Another Rear Drum Dragging Thread
- Thread starter 300cruiser
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stubs300
Senior Member
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Well they dont answer their phone. I have tried over 20 times today.
also I saw this
They are closed. This is why they are not answering its been verified. Thanks for the heads up. Been waiting for brakes 2 months. Still have faith in good old American companies just hard core research is needed which was done just got bit on this one. Good luck all.
And this.....
They are selling items while the company no longer exists. Stealing money from consumers.
So I DID some research....
also I saw this
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They are closed. This is why they are not answering its been verified. Thanks for the heads up. Been waiting for brakes 2 months. Still have faith in good old American companies just hard core research is needed which was done just got bit on this one. Good luck all.
And this.....
- Gabbie S.
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They are selling items while the company no longer exists. Stealing money from consumers.
So I DID some research....
Now that sucks!
Looks like some research on the early 90's Jeep Liberty rear discs are in order, but still hoping my issue is solved however.
Well it looks like the production years were 2002 to 2012 for the Liberty so maybe early 2000s or did you Canadian's have them in the 90s?
Looks like some research on the early 90's Jeep Liberty rear discs are in order, but still hoping my issue is solved however.
Well it looks like the production years were 2002 to 2012 for the Liberty so maybe early 2000s or did you Canadian's have them in the 90s?
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stubs300
Senior Member
And I did too, I stand corrected, I didn't know they were gone, previous post corrected! You can kill the X. Guess it's been a issue for awhile? SSBC Performance Brake Systems - Clarence, NY
Yeah it does bigtime for me! I have no idea what the application they used for mine for when I need new pads. My SUCK for not calling them alooooooong time ago to ask them that question. I guess I have some homework as well as to what to do now? Dam it!
I did a little research on the possible Jeep Liberty option, it appear rear discs were an option starting in 2003. If the rear rotor bolt pattern matches up, there is a non-bracketed caliper option so the system should in theory work, but there would be no way to hook up the emergency brake.
This is a pretty cheap conversation and maintenance too. Rotors $12 - 20, calipers for $35-45, pads $10 - 20.
This is a pretty cheap conversation and maintenance too. Rotors $12 - 20, calipers for $35-45, pads $10 - 20.
300cruiser
Active Member
Hey Tom,
I have officially ruled out hydraulic so back at mechanical. Is there an easy way to back off the parking break without removing the entire setup? The shoes will retract with if forced but the the bar seems tight in either position.
Thanks,
rkrochen
Senior Member
Make sure they aren’t adjusted too tight. If they are seizing up you can place a pry bar between the backing plate and shoe on both sides. Squeeze together until the shoes contact the anchor pin and stay there. You can also just disconnect the cable at the park brake bracket but you would need to disassemble the shoes to do so. Then purchase new cables.
Fyi I removed the emergency brake hardware and it wasn't that big of a deal. It was not the issue with my system, so my plans are to reinstall with new cables.
I am still hoping mine is fixed, it is definitely better, but a long freeway drive will be the best way for me to truly test it.
I am still hoping mine is fixed, it is definitely better, but a long freeway drive will be the best way for me to truly test it.
300cruiser
Active Member
What was your ultimate solution?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Just getting caught up here.
I agree with Mike to a certain degree. If I read correctly, he removed the e-brake arms inside the assembly
I would simply disconnect the e-brake cables from the actuator arm inside each drum assembly.
This should result immediately in the arms moving back to the rear shoe and stay safely tucked away until you want to hook them back up.
And as far as Mike's comment about the cables. I replaced mine when I had the entire brake system apart since they were pretty reasonable in price.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I am wondering now if the bracket that goes across the top of both shoes is correct or if they are switched side to side but I'm sure this was already discussed earlier.
I am hoping mine was a bad wheel cylinder.
I remember on my MGB I had a wheel cylinder going bad but it was leaking or anything. What it was doing on longer straight lengths of road the rear drums started squeaking, thus the shoes where starting to drag. If I would come to a complete stop I would be alright for a while and then it would start again.
This is essentially what, I think was going wrong on my 300, but a much great degree. Drum brakes are all basically the same so figures crossed.
This was exactly part of my problem. You can actually mount the emergency bracket incorrectly on the new shoes if you have the shoes reversed. I did this when I thought the primary pad was the one with big surface area.
I just removed it in the test process to totally eliminate it as a possible issue.
Mike I still wouldn't eliminate the wheel cylinder as the possible problem on yours too, because if my theory is right it still would pass a bench test.
I am going out for a ride this morning, this will be the longest since I replaced the wheel cylinder. I won't be able to really test it for a couple of weeks because I am heading out on a vacation today.
When I get back I will go at least 30-50 miles on the highway. That I feel will ultimately test my solution.
I am going out for a ride this morning, this will be the longest since I replaced the wheel cylinder. I won't be able to really test it for a couple of weeks because I am heading out on a vacation today.
When I get back I will go at least 30-50 miles on the highway. That I feel will ultimately test my solution.
Pauly's67Polara
Member
Hey guys...Just got back from my travels for my job over last two weeks and just getting caught up. Since I've been traveling I was 99% sure of the SSBC system, because of the ability to keep my original 14" wheels. Read your posts...they're out of business??!?!? You've gotta be kidding me! Now what?!?!?
Well, while away, got some more suggestions:
1. I spoke with an old school mechanic and he said before looking at discs, to pull out and discard the retainer valve out of the front master cylinder chamber. Said the repro stuff has it and causes problems. He also said to adjust the push rod, even though I separated the MC from that wall as a test already.
2. My buddy who is an engineer and master mechanic and fabricator, said he wants to try 11x2 drums that are for different years and makes. So I have a 67 Polara, the one he wants to try is for a 69-73Polara & 65-71 D100: Bendix PDR0187 or Reybestos 2955R.
3. I was told a guy from NC, Spraker Racing, selld 8¾ rears with Chevy drums. He makes the backing plates fit and the parts are plentiful. The Chevy drums and shoes are 11x2¼ .
Share yer thoughts guys…I am going to start this work again next week by pulling the retainer valve in the master first. Anyone hear of this or try this?
Well, while away, got some more suggestions:
1. I spoke with an old school mechanic and he said before looking at discs, to pull out and discard the retainer valve out of the front master cylinder chamber. Said the repro stuff has it and causes problems. He also said to adjust the push rod, even though I separated the MC from that wall as a test already.
2. My buddy who is an engineer and master mechanic and fabricator, said he wants to try 11x2 drums that are for different years and makes. So I have a 67 Polara, the one he wants to try is for a 69-73Polara & 65-71 D100: Bendix PDR0187 or Reybestos 2955R.
3. I was told a guy from NC, Spraker Racing, selld 8¾ rears with Chevy drums. He makes the backing plates fit and the parts are plentiful. The Chevy drums and shoes are 11x2¼ .
Share yer thoughts guys…I am going to start this work again next week by pulling the retainer valve in the master first. Anyone hear of this or try this?
Thanks for the info. Can you document with pictures your removal of the retainer valve. I feel like this really could be something. Myself and 2 mechanics have worked on bleeding the rear brakes in the past. I never felt like they bleed properly compared to any other car I have owned. This could be the source of our other issues. Thanks.
300cruiser
Active Member
I'm not entirely sure that it can be reversed but I'll look closely tonight. I will pull a few components out tonight to see if I can determine where it is binding. It's the same for both sides so e-brake makes the most sense.
Can little changes like direction or order of springs on anchor make a difference?
300cruiser
Active Member
I have a spare that I can try but it doesn't seem to be hydraulic at this point.
My latest update, combination driving first 10 miles, 15 miles continuous state route. Still perfect no dragging.
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