Another Rear Drum Dragging Thread

[Big_John]

Update: over the weekend I replaced the flex line, axle tee, and rear brake lines...and no improvement.
Next step is replacing the Master. Looking at all options, I came across a thread about the Hydraulic Safety Switch / Proportioning Valve (I don’t know have to copy link from older threads) and can’t help wondering if that has something to do with restricting the pressure release. Has anyone experienced issues in the past? They seem somewhat difficult to find replacements. Are they easily rebuilt?

I'm not sure what car you have, but if it doesn't have disc front brakes, it's not going to have a proportioning valve. In fact, many of the disc brake cars don't.

If it has just the safety switch, that won't be your problem. Did you try my suggestion of backing off the master cylinder to see if it releases?

Another video for you.

 

[stain]

Well after taking the right brake apart AGAIN and not finding anything I am now wondering if its the brakes at all. I cleaned them , backed them way off and backed the parking cables way off. No slop felt in bearings or axles.
My test drive consists of leaving my driveway, going down my 25mph road to a soft stop and then driving 50 mph for 6 miles without touching the brakes until I stop. Left drum 150 degrees, right 200. Drive back, left drum up to 200 degrees, right drum 350 degrees. Car rolls easily, brakes don't seem to be "sticking'
I have half a thought of removing the shoes altogether, pinching off the rear hose and going for a drive, probably not safe though...….
I feel like I may have something else going on...….

 

[mr. fix it]

What if you were to take the right shoes and swap them to the left vice versa. then take it for a drive then check the temps.
If they follow the shoes then I'd say you are onto something to do with the shoes themselves...

 

[300cruiser]

I'm not sure what car you have, but if it doesn't have disc front brakes, it's not going to have a proportioning valve. In fact, many of the disc brake cars don't.

If it has just the safety switch, that won't be your problem. Did you try my suggestion of backing off the master cylinder to see if it releases?

Another video for you.

I pulled the master off the booster and it didn't seem to impact the position of the shoes (when stuck in deployed position). I plan on checking the rod length this weekend while swapping the master.

The car is a drum/drum set-up so I assume it only has a safety switch vs prop value.

 

[stain]

Progress. I got up early today and swapped everything not rotational specific side to side. Shoes, drums, hardware, even tires. I also chamfered the leading edge of the front shoe. Test drive, the right drum is cool and the left is hotter, but not as hot as the right side was. Left 150, right 60. I think it may be a drum issue????? I am going to drive some more and maybe remove the now left drum and resurface it again.

 

[mr. fix it]

Progress. I got up early today and swapped everything not rotational specific side to side. Shoes, drums, hardware, even tires. I also chamfered the leading edge of the front shoe. Test drive, the right drum is cool and the left is hotter, but not as hot as the right side was. Left 150, right 60. I think it may be a drum issue????? I am going to drive some more and maybe remove the now left drum and resurface it again.

I'd be replacing the shoes as well if you are turning or replacing the drums...

 

[Zymurgy]

Here is an update on my dragging brake issue. Mine started dragging again, I still hadn't replace the shoes so I did that and also replaced the wheel cylinder on the dragging side.

After driving about 20 miles on stop and go country roads. My rears were both around 120. I am feeling better because the right side was always a little warmer.

I hope the wheel cylinder was part of the issue, or I may be converting the rears to disc also this winter.

 

[stubs300]

I hope the wheel cylinder was part of the issue, or I may be converting the rears to disc also this winter.

For the 4K+ pound monsters these cars are, that was the best decision I ever made, it just makes sense! I got tired of dickin with the drums to make it right. Good Luck

 

[mr. fix it]

Here is an update on my dragging brake issue. Mine started dragging again, I still hadn't replace the shoes so I did that and also replaced the wheel cylinder on the dragging side.

After driving about 20 miles on stop and go country roads. My rears were both around 120. I am feeling better because the right side was always a little warmer.

I hope the wheel cylinder was part of the issue, or I may be converting the rears to disc also this winter.

Do I hear “ resto-mod” Mike?
Lol!

 

[Zymurgy]

Do I hear “ resto-mod” Mike?
Lol!

No no no, not on Goldie. I do like stealth improvements however.

 

[stain]

Unfortunately no one makes a rear disc kit for the 2 piece axle yet. Leeds is working on one I have been told.
I wonder, If you can convert the drums on the 2 piece axle to the newer style (65 and up) why cant you do the same with the disc kit?

 

[mr. fix it]

Unfortunately no one makes a rear disc kit for the 2 piece axle yet. Leeds is working on one I have been told.
I wonder, If you can convert the drums on the 2 piece axle to the newer style (65 and up) why cant you do the same with the disc kit?

I understand that a early 90's Jeep Liberty with the rear discs will bolt right up but I have no way to confirm this.
I recall the comment that the e-brake doesn't have a hook up after the swap.

 

[Zymurgy]

I am certain there are a few guys here who have this adapter from Scarebird using Cadillac calipers and Lincoln disc and also has a way to hook up the emergency brake cable. 1965-72 Dodge, Plymouth "B", "C", "E" body rear disc

I never seriously thought about it because I was so happy with the stopping ability after converting the front, but I have any more issues with the rear I may be done with the drums.

I would be just my luck, because I can now dissemble and reinstall the rear drum brakes like a seasoned mechanic. I know I am approaching double digits, of performing this task.

 

[stubs300]

I didn't have a problem with the SSBC set up with the E-brake, works as advertised!

 

[stain]

Stubbs, are you talking this kit?
1963 - 1964 Dodge Chrysler Full size Rear axle Disc Brake conversion Kit - A155-1
This worked with your tapered/2 piece axle? I hadn't seen this kit before....
Reading the instructions it seems they are for a 1 piece axle, although it says 2 piece at the top of the page. New lug studs included? Am I missing something?
Any photos of your install?
I am defiantly interested in this kit if it fits my 64 Newport.

 

[rkrochen]

Here is an update on my dragging brake issue. Mine started dragging again, I still hadn't replace the shoes so I did that and also replaced the wheel cylinder on the dragging side.

After driving about 20 miles on stop and go country roads. My rears were both around 120. I am feeling better because the right side was always a little warmer.

I hope the wheel cylinder was part of the issue, or I may be converting the rears to disc also this winter.

This sounds about right. Your thread made me wonder what temp the drums would actually be after driving a fair distance and quite a few stop and goes at the end. Just came off a fairly good drive plus it is a fairly hot day here. Tested the drums and both were around 125deg F. A slight difference would be an indication the shoes are not adjusted equally.

 

[mr. fix it]

This sounds about right. Your thread made me wonder what temp the drums would actually be after driving a fair distance and quite a few stop and goes at the end. Just came off a fairly good drive plus it is a fairly hot day here. Tested the drums and both were around 125deg F. A slight difference would be an indication the shoes are not adjusted equally.

I have those temperatures as well after a long drive

 

[stubs300]

Stubbs, are you talking this kit?
1963 - 1964 Dodge Chrysler Full size Rear axle Disc Brake conversion Kit - A155-1

Yeah, that's the one, I have the 154 kit on front. I did have to change bearings to do this, I used the greens and used the Auto Hobby shop on base to use the press before I retired. I don't want to hear anybody's crap about how the Greens are bad, they wear out quick, blah, blah, blah BS either! I've had this set up for over 30K miles with no problems or issues whatsoever! I don't race, I don't corner hard, I drive it like a car and enjoy the crap outta it like you should. Rant off!
I did this job back in like 2003 when I started to have brake issues like you. Also the PITA of finding new drums was getting scarce and I got tired of looking for parts sources and stuff. I started doing my homework on discs and came across them and liked the fact that I could keep the spinners on my 14's. That's the only drawback here as I'm sure you'll agree, otherwise it would be riding around on magnum 500s in 15's and some other Mfgr. of discs. So here we are today, the only thing I don't like is that the pads could be of better quality for stopping power, both front & rears. With my drums I had a bad fade after applying brakes at highway speeds, don't know if that was from the slight heat up with the slight drag at those speeds or what? I have no more of that. I have never tested it and slammed them on at H-way speeds, but putting a quick brake on the off ramp and it backs off pretty quick for all that weight. Hope this helps? No pics of install, and no, I'm not going to jack it and take the wheel off for pictures. It's a disc brake system, you've seen one, you've seen em all. nudge, nudge.

 

[stain]

What was the reason for the bearing change?

 

[Scoopy G]

In the first photo, it appears the trailing shoe has walked off the center mounting stud, and the wing retaining washer and adjuster cable washer are wonky.