Ballast Resistor Voltage (Solved. The points failed)

First, I want to give a everyone a BIG Thank You for taking your time to help me.

Found the issue last night, it was the points. I'll pick up a new set or two today. (Feel free to stop reading. the rest is just me babbling) I don't know what happened to them but the arm, that rides in the distributor cam/shaft, just stopped moving. I took it off and even in my hands it was hard to move that arm up/down or open/close. I had to force it to open then close. Funny story, don't laugh, I had to go get my moms reading glasses to see the points contacts better. Even then it was hard to see the points didn't actually close or touch. Putting a light behind it, I could see the light passing through. Put some WD on them, just playing around, and it got easier. They were brand new set that came with the car when I bought it in March. They were in the trunk.
But definitely learned more so those 6 hours or so weren't a total waste.

Thanks again to everyone to took your time to help me.

Gary

Check with @halifaxhops. He has a lot of NOS and NOSR ignition parts.
 
If you look in the FSM, it will show you exactly what the resistance of the ballast resistor should be. And that is .5 to .6 ohms at 70 to 80 degrees ambient. I attached a screen shot. Download a copy at MyMopar if you don't have one.

I seriously doubt if the .4 ohm BR burnt anything out. It's close enough. Have you actually looked at the points? They don't last forever.

If the points look good, run a jumper from the +battery to the +side of the coil and try to start it. That completely bypasses the key switch, bulkhead and all the wiring associated. Just don't leave it hooked up very long if the engine isn't running.


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@Big_John ... I a 65 Imperial with a 413 with the same problem I tried jumping it from the battery to the coil and noting happened... Where do I go from there
 
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