BBD - 2 barrel - rebuild/replace - Need suggestions

("Camshaft on the brain? Better get Dr. Aman to do a brain scan to see if the lobes are the correct size and color!)

OOPS! The optimum band on my Isky runs fr 1500-4800 rpm. Daniel, you might want a cam with a little more top end, or not, as 4800 rpm w my 3:23 still is PLENTY zippy!
 
For a rural driver, go for the Edelbrock Performer RPM! This one is optimized for 1500-6000 rpm, just slightly above the stock band, but excellent for the highway. As an urban driver, I'm constrained to stuff like the Edelbrock Performer, which is designed for 0-5500 rpm, stock, to wit. This is why I'd just as soon use a later 1970s intake, which is actually quite similar.

I have a perfect cam for the Performer RPM, though its not installed in anything just now. I don't think you should change cams just to correct a carburetor issue at present, so I'll sign off. MoPar stock cams were well designed for their machines. I NEED to replace what's in my running engine now, which is why I have "cam on the brain Syndrome." That being so, my approach is to prepare another ENGINE, to minimize downtime when the cam surgery must be done.
Thanks Gerald - if I can get from one place in the middle of nowhere to another place in the middle of nowhere more quickly, that is just fine by me !!! I hope to be able to report back in a few months' time... look forward to checking out 318willrun too... Have a great day from Daniel
 
Thanks Gerald - if I can get from one place in the middle of nowhere to another place in the middle of nowhere more quickly, that is just fine by me !!! I hope to be able to report back in a few months' time... look forward to checking out 318willrun too... Have a great day from Daniel

Right on RIGHT ON Br'er Daniel! When the Time comes, I recommend THIS CAM to match that Performer RPM, which you should go ahead and get NOW, with the Edelbrock 1905 (650 cfm, AVS2, manual choke). This should move you on right smart in that hot, arid environment you have to drive through, so much like what surrounds me in this portion of Occupied Mexico where we roast. (it hit 46 C here this week past)

If you have thermal issues, I can advise you for setting your cooling system up MOST righteously, and what I don't know, Wise Willis does.
 
Right on RIGHT ON Br'er Daniel! When the Time comes, I recommend THIS CAM to match that Performer RPM, which you should go ahead and get NOW, with the Edelbrock 1905 (650 cfm, AVS2, manual choke). This should move you on right smart in that hot, arid environment you have to drive through, so much like what surrounds me in this portion of Occupied Mexico where we roast. (it hit 46 C here this week past)

If you have thermal issues, I can advise you for setting your cooling system up MOST righteously, and what I don't know, Wise Willis does.
Now that's a welcome reply, and reminds me we have a lot in common... Your part of Occupied Mexico also gets to 46 C - that might explain why I felt right at home driving through Arizona!!! Thanks for the tip about the cam - the more I think of this project, the more expensive it gets, but we only get to live once :)
 
Now that's a welcome reply, and reminds me we have a lot in common... Your part of Occupied Mexico also gets to 46 C - that might explain why I felt right at home driving through Arizona!!! Thanks for the tip about the cam - the more I think of this project, the more expensive it gets, but we only get to live once :)

Si Senor! You can do without that cam and the lifters it would be best with, for now. BUT, while you have the engine open, that's the best time to do a cam job! The Isky cam and the associated components run just over $1100 U.S.. Get that spreadsheet open, make a parts list page in it, and enter that detail. You also WILL NEED a good phenolic spacer for your carburetor. I used a 1/2" one, but for where you're at and ROAD driving, a 1" will do you better. Nice thing about phenolic wood spacers is that in addition to insulating your carb from engine heat, the increase the plenum depth so essential to optimizing fuel/air mixture. They deliver an excellent return for the modest expenditure. If you ran in the cold, I'd advise aluminum, but you don't, so I won't.

Your stock cam will control that engine with a fair amount of justice as matters stand. The rube price of a new 'Brock 1905 will run you say, $450 U.S., but you might do considerably better with some clever browsing and shopping. I see the Edelbrock Performer RPM intakes running around $400 also, though again, you can do a bit better. You'll need their adapter for your throttle cable, then something for your fuel line. Here, I like using the Inline Tube line for the Carter AVS. That, and a bit of heat shielding supplies my 1405, and I reckon such should do nicely for the 190X carbs also. Of course, the higher rise intake of the RPM MIGHT require a bit more modification of the throttle and kickdown linkage, IDK. You'll want to consult a more experienced source than Yours Truly for THOSE details.

Still, expect to drop a kilobuck + change to get your engine breathing right. I got off a lot cheaper by the grace of the Almighty, 'tis true, but if you allocate the kilobuck, then discover you only spent half of it, that remainder can go for the Next Stage of your engine improvements. I fitted dual pipes to my plant this past spring, and even with stock manifolds, the engine picked up a bit more performance on the low end, which is where I wanted it. I already HAD the pipes, from Gertrude's predecessor, so again, I skated on expense. Good exhaust will run you from half to one kilobuck, more if you get headers. I won't, because I live in a low RPM environment. You might consider otherwise though....
 
Si Senor! You can do without that cam and the lifters it would be best with, for now. BUT, while you have the engine open, that's the best time to do a cam job! The Isky cam and the associated components run just over $1100 U.S.. Get that spreadsheet open, make a parts list page in it, and enter that detail. You also WILL NEED a good phenolic spacer for your carburetor. I used a 1/2" one, but for where you're at and ROAD driving, a 1" will do you better. Nice thing about phenolic wood spacers is that in addition to insulating your carb from engine heat, the increase the plenum depth so essential to optimizing fuel/air mixture. They deliver an excellent return for the modest expenditure. If you ran in the cold, I'd advise aluminum, but you don't, so I won't.

Your stock cam will control that engine with a fair amount of justice as matters stand. The rube price of a new 'Brock 1905 will run you say, $450 U.S., but you might do considerably better with some clever browsing and shopping. I see the Edelbrock Performer RPM intakes running around $400 also, though again, you can do a bit better. You'll need their adapter for your throttle cable, then something for your fuel line. Here, I like using the Inline Tube line for the Carter AVS. That, and a bit of heat shielding supplies my 1405, and I reckon such should do nicely for the 190X carbs also. Of course, the higher rise intake of the RPM MIGHT require a bit more modification of the throttle and kickdown linkage, IDK. You'll want to consult a more experienced source than Yours Truly for THOSE details.

Still, expect to drop a kilobuck + change to get your engine breathing right. I got off a lot cheaper by the grace of the Almighty, 'tis true, but if you allocate the kilobuck, then discover you only spent half of it, that remainder can go for the Next Stage of your engine improvements. I fitted dual pipes to my plant this past spring, and even with stock manifolds, the engine picked up a bit more performance on the low end, which is where I wanted it. I already HAD the pipes, from Gertrude's predecessor, so again, I skated on expense. Good exhaust will run you from half to one kilobuck, more if you get headers. I won't, because I live in a low RPM environment. You might consider otherwise though....
Thanks again Gerald. I hadn't thought about a phenolic spacer. I am fortunate enough that one of the previous owners had twin pipes fitted. It doesn't have headers, but with the hotdogs it sounds fantastic. When I cruise through Occupied Mexico I'll buy you a bourbon or two....
 
Thanks again Gerald. I hadn't thought about a phenolic spacer. I am fortunate enough that one of the previous owners had twin pipes fitted. It doesn't have headers, but with the hotdogs it sounds fantastic. When I cruise through Occupied Mexico I'll buy you a bourbon or two....

Single malt Scotch, unwatered. I'm a member of the Scottish Royal Whisky Tasting Society by virtue of my having been the best GNU/Linux hacker at Raytheon in the early 2000s, and their needing me for a heap big pow-wow in Edinburgh and London w BAE. This experience seriously jaded my palate for what we Gael called "The Water of Life," "uis-kgeah" or something like that. Up until that achievement, we had to make do with FTL travel, black hole power plants and such (Stonehenge was the old Control Center). After, we realized these adolescent achievements pale in comparison to Good Whiskey!
 
Single malt Scotch, unwatered. I'm a member of the Scottish Royal Whisky Tasting Society by virtue of my having been the best GNU/Linux hacker at Raytheon in the early 2000s, and their needing me for a heap big pow-wow in Edinburgh and London w BAE. This experience seriously jaded my palate for what we Gael called "The Water of Life," "uis-kgeah" or something like that. Up until that achievement, we had to make do with FTL travel, black hole power plants and such (Stonehenge was the old Control Center). After, we realized these adolescent achievements pale in comparison to Good Whiskey!
All good unless it's peated. That can ruin your palate for a week. :BangHead: :rofl:
 
An Educated Palate you have Toolmanmike! Yes, peat makes it taste like Ye Auld Fecal Mattre.....
I would agree there. I have a few unpeated Scotches and some Irish. Most of my collection is Bourbon and Rye (my favorite)
 
All good unless it's peated. That can ruin your palate for a week. :BangHead: :rofl:
Single malt Scotch, unwatered. I'm a member of the Scottish Royal Whisky Tasting Society by virtue of my having been the best GNU/Linux hacker at Raytheon in the early 2000s, and their needing me for a heap big pow-wow in Edinburgh and London w BAE. This experience seriously jaded my palate for what we Gael called "The Water of Life," "uis-kgeah" or something like that. Up until that achievement, we had to make do with FTL travel, black hole power plants and such (Stonehenge was the old Control Center). After, we realized these adolescent achievements pale in comparison to Good Whiskey!
Single malt Scotch unwatered it is - you sound like you have a good story or two to share over a drink or two :)
 
Thanks CBODY67 - your explanation makes sense. To be honest, I haven't been disappointed by the power of the 69 383-2. The manufacturer probably found a good balance with the 383-2. I couldn't believe it when I drove to the next town 200 miles away at over 22 mpg. Thanks again from Daniel
Wow...that's actually really good for a barge that size too...great news for me as I plan to daily my 67 in Sydney lol. And +1 with what Gerald and CBODY67 say - the AVS2 is great, I got the 1906 model with electric choke on mine:
1750976616001.jpeg

It's only a 4 bbl when the secondaries open up, which won't happen unless you give it the beans, putting around town will be fine. The primary benefit of it are the annular flow boosters which sprays a finer mist of fuel into the engine, rather than resembling a dribbling hose like straight leg boosters do, so you get more responsiveness and slightly better fuel economy too. Holley used to have an annular booster carb, I think it was a variant of the Holley SS series carbs had annular boosters too but they seem to be discontinued. I do remember it was either you or someone else in oz that thought about a 4bbl but then decided to keep it stock.
If you do decide to get the AVS2, there are a few knockoff copies of the Weiand 8008 intake on ebay that are cheaper, I got me one of those and the build quality is pretty decent for almost half the price.
 
Wow...that's actually really good for a barge that size too...great news for me as I plan to daily my 67 in Sydney lol. And +1 with what Gerald and CBODY67 say - the AVS2 is great, I got the 1906 model with electric choke on mine:

It's only a 4 bbl when the secondaries open up, which won't happen unless you give it the beans, putting around town will be fine. The primary benefit of it are the annular flow boosters which sprays a finer mist of fuel into the engine, rather than resembling a dribbling hose like straight leg boosters do, so you get more responsiveness and slightly better fuel economy too. Holley used to have an annular booster carb, I think it was a variant of the Holley SS series carbs had annular boosters too but they seem to be discontinued. I do remember it was either you or someone else in oz that thought about a 4bbl but then decided to keep it stock.
If you do decide to get the AVS2, there are a few knockoff copies of the Weiand 8008 intake on ebay that are cheaper, I got me one of those and the build quality is pretty decent for almost half the price.

Thx big BIG Br'er Edbods! I'm looking for another intake. Not this year, but a little later. If/when this 1405 I'm running develops need for some work, I'm apt to upgrade to the 1905. I can attest to the fact that a decent 4 bbl carb certainly get's no worse mileage than a 2 barrel, even in town. Special gratitude for the intake tip. That Y& 8008 has runner dimensions like the Perf RPM? I see that the original Performer sure resembles the late 70s T-quad intakes, and 'Brock claims its pretty much just a stock intake replacement. Whatever I buy needs to be optimized for traffic light hopping....

That's a PRETTY engine compartment you got!
 
Hehe thanks. I need to take a more recent pic of it though, with the freshly replaced brake lines, master cylinder and everything engine-wise buttoned back up, I have to admit it looks pretty nice now, definitely nicer than that pic.
I think the runners are very similar lengths between the two - this article (just before halfway down the page) did a neat shootout comparison for 14 different intakes for a street/strip mopar 383. From that article:
Interestingly, the Action Plus divides cylinders differently from the Edelbrock performer: The Weiand has the smaller of its dual plenums connected to cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 8, where the Edelbrock splits the planes with the smaller one on 1, 4, 6, and 7. The Weiand makes maybe 2-3 more horsepower above 4,400 rpm than the Performer, but the Performer makes it up with 2-3 more lb-ft in the lower rpm range.
With such similar performance between the two, it'd then be up to what you want for your engine, and your budget.
 
Hehe thanks. I need to take a more recent pic of it though, with the freshly replaced brake lines, master cylinder and everything engine-wise buttoned back up, I have to admit it looks pretty nice now, definitely nicer than that pic.
I think the runners are very similar lengths between the two - this article (just before halfway down the page) did a neat shootout comparison for 14 different intakes for a street/strip mopar 383. From that article:

With such similar performance between the two, it'd then be up to what you want for your engine, and your budget.

Ur a Good Sod Br'er Edbods, but worry not, I shan't spread it in the Wrong Quarters. I saw a DP4 recently. The prices fr that old article certainly have more than doubled, but the physics remain the same. A nice dual plane with moderate volume runners and good plenum depth to mix the fuel so fine will do the trick nicely w my 915 heads I reckon. Anything more than 650 cfm will be a waste tho, so I'll make that my volumetric ceiling and stick with single quad intakes, dual plane. Runner length gives the engine vac a chance to speed up the gas mixture as it hits the intake valves, and maybe a little swirl before ignition up top. Porting helps here too.
 
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I forgot to mention - any aussies that need a 1/2 inch phenolic spacer, check this one out - only 20 bucks including gaskets, nuts and studs + 15 bucks shipping.
 
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