BEST RADIATOR OPTION

[DDR2467]

Well, after a few weeks of TLC I finally got my previously seized 440 to start. New starter, new plugs, along with some new hoses, etc and the thing purred like a kitten. Now, everyone’s opinion on the best place to get a replacement radiator for my 69 300? Mine has at least a couple points that it’s leaking from and I don’t really want to get it refurbished... don’t trust it. Please LMK that best, most trusted brand/site to purchase from. TY!

 

[Davea Lux]

Well, after a few weeks of TLC I finally got my previously seized 440 to start. New starter, new plugs, along with some new hoses, etc and the thing purred like a kitten. Now, everyone’s opinion on the best place to get a replacement radiator for my 69 300? Mine has at least a couple points that it’s leaking from and I don’t really want to get it refurbished... don’t trust it. Please LMK that best, most trusted brand/site to purchase from. TY!

If you want to keep the car as stock as possible, you can have the existing radiator re-cored. Any good radiator shop can do this procedure and you will have a radiator that is as good as new when done. The only thing saved during a re-core are the upper and lower tanks and the frame of the unit. If keeping the vehicle stock is not a concern, a quick cool or other brand aluminum radiator can also be installed.

Dave

 

[DDR2467]

If you want to keep the car as stock as possible, you can have the existing radiator re-cored. Any good radiator shop can do this procedure and you will have a radiator that is as good as new when done. The only thing saved during a re-core are the upper and lower tanks and the frame of the unit. If keeping the vehicle stock is not a concern, a quick cool or other brand aluminum radiator can also be installed.

Dave

Guess what I’m looking for is a new “as close to original“ radiator as I can find. NOS would be great but would take an OEM replacement. Want to keep the same look even if it’s not an original.

 

[carrman]

Cold Case Radiators, they are a sponsor here and I have one in my car.

 

[jason99]

Recore on the existing one will keep the look factory and keep things cool. I think cold case has the best new aftermarket units.

 

[RagTop66]

Guess what I’m looking for is a new “as close to original“ radiator as I can find. NOS would be great but would take an OEM replacement. Want to keep the same look even if it’s not an original.

I bought an oem replacement from either autozone or advance auto about 4 years ago. It was around $200 then and looked like the original. It’s worked great for me.

 

[JJ300]

I put a Cold Case in mine.

 

[1970FuryConv]

AutoZone and Advance radiators were $125 junk for my Intrepids and Concordes. I recommend stay away from their TRASH. None of them lasted more than a year. One leaked right out of the box. I had to pour sealant in all of them. And try getting OEM for an LH. I'm with Dave and Jason on recore.

 

[detmatt]

Hands down, re-core is the way to go.

 

[polara71]

Recore it. Not sure why the distrust but that is the best way to go. There is a reason it lasted 50 years

 

[rapidtrans]

I’d go with the recore also. Then you know it fits.
I’ve read enough about mounting holes not lining-up, hose connections and trans lines not in correct locations on the new radiator replacements.

 

[BigblueC]

Another vote for re-core. I've had a hand full of radiators re-cored over the years (same local shop) with zero issues after.

 

[CBODY67]

DO search out the best radiator shop in your region. Typically, they will do ALL radiators, rather than just cars, by observation. It'll usually be a higher-volume shop that can't afford to have things get balled-up with re-checks and such.

My experience with re-cores was not too good, locally, back in the '70s. Apparently there are various levels of quality radiator solder used to put the cores back onto the tanks. Until I took them to a shop our dealership used, it was "normal" to have leaking tank flanges after about two years. But when I jumped off and got some OEM-replacement Modines, that was the end of those issues. Plus I could get them at a good price. Now that Modine's gone from that market, not sure, other than a quality re-core deal. Although I shudder at some of the more recent prices I've read!

Only down-side to a full-aluminum radiator (even if painted OEM radiator black), to me, is that when it's "done", it's replacement time as it's all welded together. Serviced as "a unit". A reason to make sure the coolant stays good!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[RagTop66]

I looked to re-core mine when the original started leaking, but I couldn’t find anyone that would do it for less than $500. That wasn’t an option at the the time, so I went the advance/autozone route. Like I said it was around $200. The tanks are copper like my original and I’ve had no trouble in the 4-5 years that it’s been in my car. Runs at a perfect 180 degrees even when the weather reaches the high 90’s. That’s my two cents. Pick what is best for your situation.

 

[1970cat]

the availability of new radiators is dependent on your core size and which side the inlet and outlet are on. you may not find a correct one and end up with a re-core anyway.

 

[The Goose]

the availability of new radiators is dependent on your core size and which side the inlet and outlet are on. you may not find a correct one and end up with a re-core anyway.

Very true but if you can’t find exactly what you want you can always move the inlet or outlet. During a recore it is pretty much free but on a new “walk in” they usually charge between 20 and 40 bucks. This makes nearly anything fit your application. Any real shop can do it.

 

['66 Fury I]

My vote is for a recore. I've had at least a half dozen over the years and zero problems. Consider adding an extra row of tubes for good measure. well worth the expense IMHO.

 

[65sporty]

I vote for the recore, but I have a radiator guy I trust and has done a lot of work for the shop for a lot of years. The modern cars just get replacements so we only use him for classics.

 

[Ccas]

A lot of votes for re-core! I was always a big proponent of the same. That is until I started a radiator company that gives you Mopar owners another choice! I agree if the car is being restored all original. However, if you plan on driving your car and having fun with it, I would highly suggest you save your original radiator for a possible future sale to someone that is NOT going to drive it. The reasoning is simple; a good recore is going to be more expensive than a higher capacity better cooling new radiator. The recore is going to be 3 rows again. Today's lower octane fuels burn hotter. If you rebuilt your motor with any performance upgrades, the car is going to run hotter. If you drive your 'classic' like most people do, you get in many situations like parades, cruises, street racing etc where you are sitting for extended periods of time. Do you have AC? Yikes!

The point is that the 3 row will 'likely' get the job done but it's going to run hotter than a big 2 row aluminum radiator. That's less comfortable. I would much rather have my car running cooler just based on comfort alone.

Finally, until Cold Case, you couldn't get a C-body aluminum radiator that had stock looking stamped tanks and re-attach your oem fan shroud. If you paint them, only a point judged car show judge would notice.

So cheaper, pretty much the same look and cooler seems to make a whole lot of sense.

If you agree, shoot me a PM for a special member price. If you don't agree, I'm sure I'll here about it! lol!

 

[DDR2467]

Radiator is out. Love doing stuff myself and learning. Ccas seems to make legit points. Quite frankly I’d like to have the better performing radiator. Not sure why the Cold Case radiators wouldn’t be the smarter choice for performance?