Cam assembly lube?

[Newport 66]

Geez...i hate to even ask this.....but I have a tube of LubriPlate 105 assembly lube. Is this ok for my new cam installation? I always used specific cam lube for installs. My new cam didn't come with the lube like they used to supply. I can buy lube at the parts store but thsts another trip.

 

[65sporty]

I would use a specific cam lube and break in oil or cam lube, engine oil and a zinc additive or cam lube and engine oil high in zddp. The common theme here is a cam lube, you want to give it the best chance to break in for a long life.

 

[jake]

I used Lucas break in lube when I did my motor. After assembly it sat for a couple of months before I fired it up and had no issues. I also primed the motor before start up and used break in oil also.

 

[stubs300]

Any assembly lube with zddp in it will work. I have taken a Moly assy lube and added STP to it not only to thin it some, but to also kick up the zinc content and haven't had any problems building a couple motors with that can. Good Luck

 

[66Newyorker]

Buy ZDDP Oil Additive & Cam Assembly Lube from ZDDPlus This is what I used. You can get it from Amazon or you can go to Goodson Tools & Supplies for Engine Builders they also have a zddp paste. When you go to fire it up for the first time also use a high zinc break in oil and do a good break in of the cam.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Sta-lube, molybdenum lube
Black tube, like black tooth paste. Some do not like it because it clogs oil filter, not like you are going for long time and mileage on the break in filter.
I've never had it fail me.

 

[CBODY67]

The Lubriplate you ref is probably more at home on the bearings, than cam lobes. As I recall, you were supposed to do an oil change after the engine was up and running, to get the thicker Lubriplate out of the system?

In general, use "assembly lube" on bearings and such. The cam lube paste should be on the cam lobes and possibly the bottom of the lifters and rocker arm/valve stem interface. I also put some on the back of the cam sprocket before pouring some of the old GM EOS (thick version) over the timing chain and sprockets. Then, before putting the intake manifold on, pouring a can of the thick EOS into the lifter valley for more cam lobe lube.

GM and other cam makers have some viscous assembly lube for the bearings, in a small bottle. It works well and most engine builders use something like that for the main, rods, and cam bearings. Everybody had their own prefs in this area. Some fueled by magazine articles, others from use and experience. Key thing to remember is that these engines were "ready for installation", rather than sitting around on an engine stand. Using the pre-lube via oil pump action prior to fire-up is good, too.

When that old Lubriplate product was recommended, these later products were either not available/invented yet or were not readily available away from major metro areas, back then.

CBODY67

 

[65Fury440]

This is what Howard's cams told me to use. Like Dave said, it's like black toothpaste.
Tech guy said there was a certain ingredient that nothing else has, can't remember what it was.

https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Gibbs-Driven-00732-Assembly/dp/B002MTTY0E

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Lubriplate 105 is good on pushrod tips valve tips. Bearings and pressure fed surfaces I just use oil, especially if you are pre lubing by spinning the pump with drill. IMHO you want a paste that will stay on as long as possible at start up to provide protection until the oil gets splashing on the cam well enough to start protecting. The grease like stuff that comes in bottles may be okay if you jam the cam in, and ready to fire it up within 3-4 hours that it will take for that stuff to drip off the lobes. Basically if it pours I would not use it.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

STP wont kick up the zinc content any more due to EPA regs. It will increse the moly content.
Use the break in additive. Whiich is cheaper- a triip to the parts store for the additive now or a trip for cam and liffters later?

 

[Newport 66]

I ordered this from Amazon. Yes, it's cheaper to run to the parts store than buy another cam/lifter kit...lol!!!!
Like I said cam used to come with lube...thanks for all the responses.....good advise and suggestions. I'll report back with progress.

 

[65Fury440]

Also should add, do not use assembly lube on the side of the lifters, only the face of the cam lobe and face of the lifter.
Some motor oil on the body of the lifter and in the lifter bore.
The lifters need to spin.

One other thing I took away from the cam guy was that he said most of the cam failures he sees aren't from a tight lifter bore preventing the lifter from roataing, it's a worn lifter bore allowing the lifter to cock against the pressure of the cam.

OP this isn't directed at you, just anyone who may not realize you don't want to use anything thick on the sides of the lifters to prevent rotation.
Good luck!!

PS I felt better seeing my lifters spin turning the cam by hand, with the top timing chain sprocket.

 

[CBODY67]

There are MANY dynamics in cam/lifter interface design. All cam lobes have a slight taper to the side, so the lifters will spin as they go up an down. The original 440 6bbl cam was designated "Low Taper" by Chrysler, so it would stand up to the higher valve spring pressures used in that engine. Cam specs were no different, best I could find, but that "low taper" designation was the difference.

We didn't realize it until the later 1980s, but few of the earlier engine designs had valve lifters which were at an exact 90 degrees to the camshaft itself. In an effort to minimize engine height (best I can figure), the lifters were laid over a little more, plus the pushrods a little too, sometimes. The Chrysler LA "R" block took those additional "lay over" degrees out and made the lifters at 90 degrees to the camshaft, which also meant it had a special cam for that reason.

Lifters spin in their bores, EXCEPT roller lifters. Pushrods can spin somewhat. As the rocker arm end "wipes across" the top of the valve stem, pushing it down or letting it return to closed in the process, a side load is placed on the valve stem, which is controlled by the valve guide. LOTS of friction interfaces!

One of the more recent "advances" is the porosity of the lifter "bottom" so it can supply oil to the cam lobes, directly. Not sure if it works as well as advocated.

As you might have noticed, the recommendations for cam lubes have changed over the years. The newer stuff should be much better than what was used/recommended 60 years prior, I suspect. Still, can't hurt to use as much as you desire, I suspect.

CBODY67

 

[70bigblockdodge]

As the rocker arm end "wipes across" the top of the valve stem, pushing it down or letting it return to closed in the process, a side load is placed on the valve stem, which is controlled by the valve guide. LOTS of friction interfaces

Not supposed to in a near stock( less than .550 lift)

One of the more recent "advances" is the porosity of the lifter "bottom" so it can supply oil to the cam lobes, directly. Not sure if it works as well as advocated

I'll let you know in the spring.

OP this isn't directed at you, just anyone who may not realize you don't want to use anything thick on the sides of the lifters to prevent rotation

Yes, good point, only lifter face and lobe.

 

[CBODY67]

The lower valve lifts might not be quite as much as the higher lifts, but there will still be some. Otherwise, there would be no need for a slightly rounded contact surface on the end of the rocker arm, I suspect.

CBODY67