Have you pulled the glove box out? Mice like to nest on top of the heater box and you can usually see it with the glove box liner out.
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Convertible Fury - 1970
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
Second on taking the glove box out.
If you are careful, it will come out in one piece, but usually they are beat up and it's time for a new one.
If you are careful, it will come out in one piece, but usually they are beat up and it's time for a new one.
the urine smell can get into the shoddy (firewall insulation) too. try febreeze.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Bottom looks like a bracket for the throttle return spring.
Mine is in great shape, and I don't see how to remove it through the glove box opening without harming it. I have the door off and all the screws out. The box is loose, but it seems like I might ruin in it if I force it out. Any tips?
I finally applied paint. It looks a lot better in this photo, but I am super disappointed in how it turned out. The spray can kept spitting and made droplets, and I don't think I fully rinsed off the phosphoric acid because the areas with the most rust are bleeding through. Back to the drawing board.
Just a couple tips/questions... what phosphoric acid product did you use? I am partial to Ospho myself, and it should have been cleaned with a wire brush before and after treatment. My next question would be what primer did you use? A self etching primer should have done a pretty fair job covering the metal before the paint ever happened.
For WIW, on a floor pan nobody will ever see, I would be happy brushing the paint on. remember the color coat is going to seal the primer, so try to use compatible (with each other) products for this... lots of brands to choose from KBS, Rust Bullet, POR-15 or even Rustoleum should do the job
I ground it down to close to bare metal before treating. When the acid was on, I used heavy duty steel wool to work it into the pits and crannies that remained. I think my failure was in rinsing and cleaning after the acid treatment. I used a wet rag but did not truly soak it and rinse it. The areas of bleed through are where the deepest pits were.
I don't know the brand of the acid. It is something I got at Home Depot and is not in front of me. The primer was Duplicolor primer/sealer. The paint was body color put in a can by an auto paint store. I think they told me that brushing on body paint wouldn't give good results. I do want to go that route though, because spraying was a pain in the butt, and I would need a lot of cans to do this whole car. The can was filled 2-3 months ago, so maybe I got spatter because some of the propellant leaked out.
As for the primer covering the metal, there were already signs of acid leak through after I primed. I knew I might have a problem. I decided to go ahead with the paint to see how it worked. I figured I would have to regrind/treat/clean those areas either way so I would only be out the cost of the paint if it continued to be a problem.
I don't know the brand of the acid. It is something I got at Home Depot and is not in front of me. The primer was Duplicolor primer/sealer. The paint was body color put in a can by an auto paint store. I think they told me that brushing on body paint wouldn't give good results. I do want to go that route though, because spraying was a pain in the butt, and I would need a lot of cans to do this whole car. The can was filled 2-3 months ago, so maybe I got spatter because some of the propellant leaked out.
As for the primer covering the metal, there were already signs of acid leak through after I primed. I knew I might have a problem. I decided to go ahead with the paint to see how it worked. I figured I would have to regrind/treat/clean those areas either way so I would only be out the cost of the paint if it continued to be a problem.
I've removed the horizontal ductwork and cleaned it up but I still have a mouse smell. Will I be sorry if I remove the piece indicated by the arrow? I'd like to clean it too. There is a screw holding it on at the bottom and then it connects up in the dash where I can't see. I'm worried that if I pull it down and out I will never get it back.
Should this foam be glued so it sits flush on the plastic housing? Do you think rubber cement will damage the foam?
Should this foam be glued so it sits flush on the plastic housing? Do you think rubber cement will damage the foam?
The duct just clips on to the dash vent. You should be able to get it off and on without too much issue. It won't be any fun, but it can be done.
I don't think the rubber cement would hurt the foam, but I would try a little corner first. Some double sided tape would work too.
I don't think the rubber cement would hurt the foam, but I would try a little corner first. Some double sided tape would work too.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
The factory never had any glue or tape etc, it just pushed into place.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I lost track of your build, looking good.
70Tom
Senior Member
Jeff, I just gutted the interior of my 70 Sport Fury. Headliner, sail panels and backing board are completely removed. Seats, carpet, seat belts gone. I used about 15 pails of hot water and soap to clean the floor and the roof. I have most of the dash dismantled, including removing the dash pad, the duct you have in your hand. All that's left is the defroster vents, the heater box iteself, and the speedo cluster (was having trouble dropping the steering column-think I was loosening the wrong bolts).
And I guess my point in listing all of that is, it STILL has a faint smell of mouse piss. Once I drop the column I'll remove the center cluster. I'm having my windshield removed to repair potential rust in the channel. Once that is out, I'll remove the defroster ducts and then the heater box. I'll be removing all insulation under there.
Mice got everywhere in this car. The most unusual place they built their nests was under the plastic "domes" that are under the carpet surrounding the lap belt regulators. I have a bunch of surface rust there as a result.
Once I get that dash further apart and the heater box out, I'll be scrubbing under the dash and then I'm going to Petsmart and purchasing some of that cleaning product that deals with animal urine. It needs to be neutralized, I think, and since these mice were in the wiring channels along the sill sides, smell still exists.
In other words, without full dismantling and cleaning, i have a feeling this smell will continue. I'm out to get rid of it (plus the interior in my car was seriously disgusting, so it needed to be thoroughly cleaned.)
Good luck.
70Tom
Senior Member
Also, there's a helpful video on ABC Moparts' Facebook page for removing the dash pad. It's pretty easy.
Thanks everyone. I'll pull that duct and clean it, although it sounds like it might be a waste of time based on 70Tom's post. I really don't want to take too much more apart as I don't want to end up with a basket case. On the other hand, I don't want to put in new carpet and get things looking nice and have it smell like mouse pee.
I just watched it. Thanks for the tip. He does make it look pretty easy. It's tempting. I bet putting it back on is not quite as easy!
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