Convertible Fury - 1970

[Wollfen]

It's amazing how much rust there is on the back of the armrest, compared to behind and below it. It must have been an unpainted surface. I didn't realize there was a light back there. I thought the visible face plate was just a decorate element. Is it supposed to light up when the doors are open?

There is a series of metal plates along the sides of the floor, behind which are wire bundles. Are those just affixed to the car with body sealer?

View attachment 94023 View attachment 94024

They are welded at the base but they can be folded out to expose the wires, just be careful not to fold them too far because they are not strong and can break off after a few times of being folded back and forth.
And yes the light goes on when you open the door.

 

[Big_John]

Yep, no paint on the back of the armrest.

BTW, I forgot that there's a screw that doubles as a boot clip on the back of the kick panel that needs to come off. You may have already encountered it...

 

[Jeff]

That light is cool, but what a pain in the butt to replace the bulb.

 

[Jeff]

This is the back of the power window switch on the rear kick panel. The white plastic looks like a clamp that is locked shut. Can I unlock it without ruining it? I want to disconnect so I can remove the panel completely.

Also, should the power windows operate fine using just battery power or does the engine need to be running? This one moves up slowly about halfway and then stops using the battery. Thx.

 

[Dobalovr]

Do not open that connector. There are tabs on the switch housing surround that hold it in place without having to pull the connector apart. Press in the tabs and the switch will seperate. The window motor sounds like it needs to be rebuilt. Here is a thread on how to do that.

How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

 

[Big_John]

This is the back of the power window switch on the rear kick panel. The white plastic looks like a clamp that is locked shut. Can I unlock it without ruining it? I want to disconnect so I can remove the panel completely.

Also, should the power windows operate fine using just battery power or does the engine need to be running? This one moves up slowly about halfway and then stops using the battery. Thx.
View attachment 97013

The switch comes out from the front. It clips in. Once you free the switch, the wire harness is just plugged to the back.

 

[Big_John]

Best pics I can find of how it clips on. See the 4 posts and the clips?

Get yourself some of these.

Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit 4 Pc

 

[Jeff]

Excellent, this is very helpful. Thank you!

 

[commando1]

Do not open that connector.

Ummm...
How are you going to pull the switch off the panel without dragging 20 ft. of wiring through the hole too?

 

[Jeff]

I think he is saying you can't pull the white clip off the back until you separate the front of the switch from the housing, which you do from the front. Once separated, the white clip will come off the back. But I'm at work and can't look at it right now.

 

[Big_John]

I think he is saying you can't pull the white clip off the back until you separate the front of the switch from the housing, which you do from the front. Once separated, the white clip will come off the back. But I'm at work and can't look at it right now.

That is correct.

 

[Jeff]

That worked. There was an amazing amount of debris and dirt in the wells on both sides. The "up" side of one of the switches doesn't seem to work. I'm pretty sure it is the switch and not wiring because I swapped the switches from side to side to test. If you separate the black plastic portion of the switch from the metal housing, is there anything back there that can be rehabbed?

I think the clutch assemblies on both sides need to rebuilt. I'll follow the instructions at that link. It looks pretty easy except for getting the motor and regulator in and out of the car. I took the regulator out of my '42 Plymouth out and it was a royal pain getting it back in, so I am procrastinating a little bit.

 

[Dobalovr]

One word of caution - don't disconnect the motor from the regulator unless you have secured the regulator with a bolt or clamp....ask me how I know

 

[Jeff]

Yes, I saw that warning in the thread. Someone suggested drilling a hole through the door and the regulator arm and putting a bolt through and then detaching the motor, leaving the regulator in place. That is an attractive option, but I don't like to drill extra holes in the car.

 

[cantflip]

Yes, I saw that warning in the thread. Someone suggested drilling a hole through the door and the regulator arm and putting a bolt through and then detaching the motor, leaving the regulator in place. That is an attractive option, but I don't like to drill extra holes in the car.

Just keep track of exactly where you allow your fingers to be at all times, or you will find yourself counting only to nine very easily.

 

[Dobalovr]

The motor and regulator should I repeat should be able to be manipulated out as a unit. Then put it in a vice and either drill a hole through both arms or use the existing hole to lock the arms in place so the spring stays wound and in place. Unbolting the motor from the regulator inside of the door is very risky.

Insert Saylor tag line here...

 

[Jeff]

Here is my own word of caution: be careful what kind of electrical connection cleaner you spray on old parts. I ruined both my rear window switches today. The innards are nice and clean and the switches work, but the plastic parts that hold the button to the switch fell into pieces. The can did have a warning about certain plastics, but I figured what the hell, one wasn't going up anyway so I might a well try it. I used on that first one and it started to work so I sprayed the other one. Then both fell apart.

 

[Jeff]

 

[Jeff]

I finally started actual work on the floor. I started with a small section just to test the process: grind out rust, treat with phosphoric acid, primer, paint. The phosphoric acid is on it today. I'll rinse it tonight and decide whether to prime or do more work on it first.

 

[Jeff]

Despite having most of the interior out, there is still a nasty mouse smell under the dash. It seems to emanating from the passenger side. I really hate to tear the dash apart because I am already worried about getting this car back together. Is there a common place up there that mice like to nest in that is easily accessed?