Yep, just load new stuff in the parts cannon and fire it at the car.That's cause people don't trouble shoot any more.
Yep, just load new stuff in the parts cannon and fire it at the car.That's cause people don't trouble shoot any more.
I'm calling B.S.. Hot brake and failed wheel seal is what makes a wheel fire then the tire catches fire which is what the brain dead mouth breathers being interviewed by the ditsy blonde reporter saw, so it must be true. I have drug dead tires till there was only two sidewalls on the rim and no fire. I have had a brake on fire with both tires still aired up.A failed truck tire that caught on fire today burned a truck to the ground in Baltimore and caused I-95 to be F'd up all day long today.
Tractor-trailer fire blocks southbound traffic on I-95 in Howard County
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Between those two points "relatively flat" means if it wasn't for the curvature of the earth you would be able to see Pittsburgh from Indianapolis.It is reletively flat between Indianapolis, Indiana and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
I'm calling B.S.. Hot brake and failed wheel seal is what makes a wheel fire then the tire catches fire which is what the brain dead mouth breathers being interviewed by the ditsy blonde reporter saw, so it must be true. I have drug dead tires till there was only two sidewalls on the rim and no fire. I have had a brake on fire with both tires still aired up.
I just bought a 1972 Newport. It has been stored in a garage for its whole life. There is no rust on the body, or underneath. No tears in the upholstery either. It was never driven during the winter, and has 71,000 miles. If this car has a new oil change, and new tires, do you think it could make the 400 mile trip home? It has no mechanical issues.
Also, this is my first car that is more than 25 years old. How do I baby this car and make it last as long as it possibly can? My grandma used to own a 72 Newport "The Tank" as we called it, and she did explain to me that i'm going to be pouring gas into it all day. What kind of things should I bring in case of emergency on such a long trip?
I'm really looking forward to this car getting home. I remember when I was a little kid my grandma had a blue one, and in the back during a road trip, my sister could lay across the floor, my other sister lay across the seat, and I could lay across the window! They haven't made cars of that size in a long time.View attachment 144353
You have a keen memory. It took a long time for me to find a Newport that wasn't a rustbucket.I thought that Chrysler looked familiar, I've seen it on CL. I can't add anymore to what others have already advised so have a safe trip, enjoy the time with your dad & good luck with your Chrysler.
[QUOTE="Big_John, . A cell phone and a AAA card are your friends.
That has potential to be one of mine in the past. I sold the one I had to a guy named Nevin who I think worked for the bureau of mines... I know he was an engineer of some sort. He was a customer of one of the gas stations I wrenched at back then and loved low mileage old cars that nobody loved at the time. When I sold the car it had about 40K miles on her and was in great body condition.I just bought a 1972 Newport. It has been stored in a garage for its whole life. There is no rust on the body, or underneath. No tears in the upholstery either. It was never driven during the winter, and has 71,000 miles. If this car has a new oil change, and new tires, do you think it could make the 400 mile trip home? It has no mechanical issues.
Also, this is my first car that is more than 25 years old. How do I baby this car and make it last as long as it possibly can? My grandma used to own a 72 Newport "The Tank" as we called it, and she did explain to me that i'm going to be pouring gas into it all day. What kind of things should I bring in case of emergency on such a long trip?
I'm really looking forward to this car getting home. I remember when I was a little kid my grandma had a blue one, and in the back during a road trip, my sister could lay across the floor, my other sister lay across the seat, and I could lay across the window! They haven't made cars of that size in a long time.View attachment 144353
Would you mind explaining to me what a ballast resistor is, how to tell if it is bad, and why they are needed? I know it has something to do with ignition. Are they a problemed part?
It's a white ceramic high wattage resistor mounted on the firewall that drops battery 12v down to about 8v to preserve your ignition coil (which is a relic from the days of 6v systems and points). In my many years of Mopars I've never actually had one fail, but the GM propaganda ministry has promoted this failure so often that even my grandmother would tell me to "keep a spare in your glovebox". IF it fails, you can bypass it for a while (keeping in mind you're stressing the coil) Because they are relatively cheap and probably the easiest part on a car to change short of putting the key in the ignition, everyone tries that if the car doesn't start.
Keep one if you want, but the hype is exaggerated.
I have had a few fail over the years. Always on daily drivers and never on limited use cars though.
It's a cheap piece to buy and toss in the glove box. I don't expect the local AutoZone has them on the shelf anymore and they do fail without warning, so keeping one in the car kinda makes sense. I was never one for keeping spare anything in the car, but I've started keeping a few spares to get me home, especially on a trip.
That said.... The ballast resistor gets blamed for a lot of problems and the first words out of someone's mouth is "ballast resistor" when the car is really just out of gas. Lot's of them get replaced "just 'cause" with no thought about what the real diagnosis is. The starter relay is next on that list....
That's cause people don't trouble shoot any more.
FWIW, I do recall a number of failed Dual ballast resistors, I don't recall the single ballasts having the same failure rate though...
I couldn't count the number of times I opened a hood and saw one ballast bolted to the bulkhead and one hanging from the wires... even saw where a few folks bolted a second ballast as a spare (next to the original). Sorry to say, that was in the early days of my career, and I was too green to check all of them with my ohmmeter. Once I had mastered that test, I do recall several "bad" ones that were still good.
The classic symptom I recall was the car wanting to start, but dying as soon as you switched the ignition to run... or am I confusing that with GM ignition module failure in the 80's? Both I think.
Few shade tree folks used or even now use an ohmmeter, your test with a piece of wire would indicate a basic electrical understanding that parts changer's try to avoid...The dual ballasts have start and run positions (less resistance during cranking). If the start side fails (opens), it fires for just a second as soon as you give up and release the key. If the run side fails, it dies as soon as you release the key.
It stands to reason the duals would have more failures, since that have twice as many parts.
But it's the shade-tree, throw-parts aspect that gives them the rep. I don't know why someone would make the effort when any old piece of wire jammed in there is a go/no-go test by substitution.
Unless you get AAA Classic(basic) plan(pretty useless) a lot of the good benefits have a 7 day waiting period before they go into effect.#2 AAA phone number, even if you don't have an account... you can use the credit card to buy an account on the phone and they will give you the same service as if you had the account for years. Some policies have different towing amounts for free... so if far from home, buy the best they have.
Never had one go bad till Carlisle, thank my lucky stars for you guysFew shade tree folks used or even now use an ohmmeter, your test with a piece of wire would indicate a basic electrical understanding that parts changer's try to avoid...
A new ballast in the 80's was a buck or two, and every parts store had them on hand... I get why so many got replaced.
Forget all of the advice given before - 400 miles isn't long enough to really check out the car. You need to go more like 2,000 miles. Somewhere in Northern California would be perfect. And I could volunteer to be your safe haven at this end. Of course, driving 2,000 miles one way means it wouldn't be a good idea to drive it back another 2,000 miles - What kind of glutton for punishment are you? So you would surely have to fly back home and leave the car with me for something like the next 10 years. That would give me the opportunity to test drive it under every condition imaginable. It would be a tough job but I am willing to make the sacrifice. Besides, after the 10 year test is over, I will be an old man who probably shouldn't be driving anymore and you will be in your prime. Which means you will finally have reached the point where you are ready to take on the incredible responsibility of a C car. You can come get it, say, sometime around the end of 2028 and - You're welcome.