Dr. Frankenmorris and His Dead C Bodies

[Gerald Morris]

A New Thread for Gertrude and Mathilda begins!

I got Mathilda's 383 in the air a little this evening, after crawling under her and unbolting a few things.

While nothing remains bolted to Mathilda, the bell housing of the transmission seems to catch on the edge of the tunnel. I also lack confidence in this leveler. the Torin brand name is common, and gets some decent reviews, but its sino-iron and those L brackets bolted to the intake manifold are bending too much for my liking. I suspect I'll have to get more of my chains tomorrow morning and may supplement this leveler or ditch it. It doesn't adjust easily with weight on it, so what's the point in using it? If I had TIME, I'd probably make my OWN L brackets at least, from good American or Canadian angle iron. Of course, the hoist is sino-potmetal too, so I'm stuck with a lot of this crap. These are the last redoubt for chinese tools in my panoply, FWIW. To me, its worth a LOT.

I tried changing the orientation of the leveler, and moved it up a little on the intake, but will correct my mistake in the morning. It was getting late, and my thinking wasn't at its best.

LOOK at how badly those brackets bent then! WEAK ****! I realize that perhaps I placed them in a sub-optimal position, but HELL, I'M LIFTING A MOPAR BIG BLOCK! One would like to think, when purchasing these gew-gaws on Amazon, that they might be able to endure moving something larger than a VW air-cooled 4 cylinder.....

OK, the new thread is up. I'm getting some ZZzzs. C y'all tomorrow.

I probably am going to try the hoist in the pickup truck. I've picked one of these elephant heads up off the ground from a pickup bed a few years ago, and figure if I secure that damned hoist WELL, I should be able to pull this head out without disaster.

Stay Tuned!

 

[413]

I just went to taking the engine out by itself. Pretty quick to remove the starter, converter and bellhousing bolts if you just go that way from the start.

These products they sell aren’t for big block USA iron, they are for lifting 4 cylinder aluminum stuff.

 

[68 4spd Fury]

I agree, remove the transmission and it should lift pretty much strait up. If, at this point, that is impractical, remove the grill and radiator support.

 

[Big_John]

Having used the levelers a time or two, they work as long as they are positioned correctly and (importantly) the adjuster screw is greased.

First pic, it should be back a little at a better balance point. Second pic... Sideways? Put your hands by your sides and back slowly away from the car. You are doing it wrong. Put the leveler back the way it should be.

The steel brackets do look a little spindly, but honestly, if you are bending them by how you've positioned the leveler sideways and pulling the brackets at an angle. Chances of them breaking is astronomically low though, and I'd be more worried about it breaking elsewhere.

Everyone makes a good point of pulling just the engine... I've done it both ways and it depends on what I'm doing, but I usually pull the trans too. Just have to put more angle on the assembly and raise it higher.... and figure on getting trans fluid pouring out the tailshaft.

 

[Samplingman]

I used a carb plate, safest and easiest way to lift. It also works better with the leveler. What @Big_John said, more angle and lift the front about 22” and the motor and trans comes out easily. Of course, removing the core support and grille will help a lot as well.

 

[Gerald Morris]

THANK ALL OF YOU!!! Good thoughts, and observations every one.

1. I WILL re-orient the leveler back parallel to the length of the motor-transmission. I WILL also grease that screw!

2. I thought over separating the transmission from the engine, but favor keeping them together, if possible, so I can then place them as an intact unit into Gertrude. Mathilda's transmission is the best part of her drive train at this time, having been rebuilt well by an excellent shop back in 2017, almost exactly 4 years go as of this thread. I have drained considerable fluid from the tranny from the cooling lines AND the rear before unbolting it and them after getting it airborne and at a greater incline. I've a big pan down there to catch as much of the fluid as possible, as I HATE getting it in the carpet I have to crawl on.

Also, while NOT CERTAIN, I recall some references to the number of splines on both ends of the TF727 changing circa 1967, so I think it best to keep the motor and trans as a UNIT. If I need to swap out the yoke or even whole driveshaft to accomodate the 1966 tranny after getting it into Gertrude, that's EASY. (I hope. Take NOTHING for granted!)

3. I saw the plates for pulling the motor advertised, but TIME EVER IS MY ENEMY HERE! IFF I can find one at a local shop, I probably WILL get one. I know that this is the Mopar Approved way to lift these motors, and would prefer to use one.

OK, I'm heading to my storage locker to get more chains, and also to drop a few leaky power steering pumps, alternators and such. I don't want the criminal mismanagement of this slum-park targeting ME for TOO MUCH junk. Fortunately, PLENTY of my wheeler-dealer neighbors ALSO are building, hot-rodding and so forth. They NEED hot-rods, as get-away and pursuit vehicles. Drug dealing is an exciting career! Not for oldsters like me.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I used a carb plate, safest and easiest way to lift. It also works better with the leveler. What @Big_John said, more angle and lift the front about 22” and the motor and trans comes out easily. Of course, removing the core support and grille will help a lot as well.

View attachment 498200

I WANT to get that damned core support OFF, but DAMN! that ***** who caused us SO MUCH MISERY HERE, just happened to stave in the passenger quarter panel JUST-SO as to make a MAJOR JOB of pulling it off. IDK if its even possible, cleanly. IF naught else avails, I'll chuck some metal cutting blades into the skilsaw and slice it off, but I REALLY DON'T WANT TO DO THIS.

 

[3C's & a D?]

The second picture, with the balancer sideways is definitely wrong. The first picture is not quite right either. You want the balancer as close to the engine as possible, then a short piece of chain 10-14 inches, from the hoist hook. The balancer should have come with it. Also, jack the rear end up, to push the nose down.

 

[TxDon]

Maybe I've just been lucky but I have pulled many engines and engine-trans combos with just a carb mounted plate, no leveler!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Things are going well enough this evening. Used the leveler as its meant to be used, long axis parallel to engine-tranny driveline, and NOT as I so foolishly had tried earlier. THE PROBLEM I had earlier came from the damned shifter linkage catching the bellcrank, even after taking stuff good and loose, I'd left the bellcrank on, to make it easier to redo things later. Joke on me there!

Anyway, I now have the motor clear of the radiator core support, with only the tail of the transmission just barely under the tunnel. I NOW have to contrive how to move stuff around, as my work surface is carpet and caliche' not a concrete shop floor. I probably can scoot Mathilda back another 5 or so feet, which should permit me to then lower her old abused engine to the ground, with a nice used tire to receive it.

I then MUST move Gertrude out of the driveway, in order to move the engine. THEN, move her into some location where I can remove her engine, then install the one I pulled today. Seeing the exhaust valve stems today reminded me vividly how badly she needs a valve job, but THAT NOBLE PLAN HAS TO WAIT BECAUSE SOME VAPID SLIMY C--T HAD TO DESTROY OUR ONE AND ONLY SOURCE OF MOTOR TRANSPORTATION!!!

Anyway, I got the old motor in the air, and just resting on the edge of the core support for tonight. Tomorrow, I can attend to moving stuff around to allow me to lower the motor to the ground, OR into the bed of the U-Haul pickup I'm renting.

Working on cars on caliche adds all sorts of complexity to the "simplest" operations. I think I can use a big wooden beam or 2 to get that motor down. I'll show you how that's done tomorrow.

Note the ash on the #1 exhaust valve stem! I already ordered replacement expansion plugs for the heads. I'm truly amazed THIS motor still runs! Ah, but there are NO cracks in any of the iron anywhere, Deo gratias. While Gertrude's motor ran very well for a little while, once the crack in one of those cylinders grew, the gunshot backfiring started. When I saw the big coolant dump into the crankcase, I KNEW BEYOND ANY SHADE OF DOUBT THAT THAT ENGINE COULD NOT BE RUN ANOTHER INCH OR MINUTE. So, I must use this one until I can get something BETTER together.....

 

[Gerald Morris]

I used a carb plate, safest and easiest way to lift. It also works better with the leveler. What @Big_John said, more angle and lift the front about 22” and the motor and trans comes out easily. Of course, removing the core support and grille will help a lot as well.

View attachment 498200

Is that one of the support plates from 440source? I have looked around a bit. Since I must also pull the wrecked motor in Gertrude, I might get a lift plate if I can get it quick enough.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Maybe I've just been lucky but I have pulled many engines and engine-trans combos with just a carb mounted plate, no leveler!

View attachment 498254

View attachment 498255

View attachment 498257

Nice shop! Pretty work, w pretty stuff. I'm confined to grunge and caliche in this barrio slum, but I've managed to get that old iron out of the compartment well enough for tonight. Tomorrow, I need to prop it on TOP of the compartment, move stuff, then begin easing that elephant head down. I think I WILL get a lift plate tomorrow. I see them at sundry stores and they're not too costly. Good tool to have.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I just went to taking the engine out by itself. Pretty quick to remove the starter, converter and bellhousing bolts if you just go that way from the start.

These products they sell aren’t for big block USA iron, they are for lifting 4 cylinder aluminum stuff.

Good thoughts, but I really want to keep this unit together as much as possible. I DID get it out of the compartment tonight, save for the tail of the tranny. since I have to grunt things around, this will do for tonight.

 

[Samplingman]

Is that one of the support plates from 440source? I have looked around a bit. Since I must also pull the wrecked motor in Gertrude, I might get a lift plate if I can get it quick enough.

No, actually, picked it up from my local Advanced Auto, they had them right on the shelf, I think it was about $25.

 

[Gerald Morris]

No, actually, picked it up from my local Advanced Auto, they had them right on the shelf, I think it was about $25.

Good 2 know! Oh Really? has them for $17, so I reckon I'll grab that. Summit, JEGS, Walmart, VatoZone all carry the same plate too. Rated for 1000#, which covers the dead weight of the motor+tranny w about 220# to spare. Only concern is with if something snags the body, putting the car weight on in addition to the motor. I WILL take great care with Gertrude, or, if a close by shop can be hired for a modest price, have THEM do that. Working on carpet over caliche is NOT something I recommend, IFF it can be avoided. If I had some GOOD plywood decking to lay down, I'd use that, but OSB WON'T support those little steel wheels on the hoist or my engine stand, so, WHY BOTHER? I tried that **** before, and the wheels just punch through, leaving you STUCK worse than the carpet.

Balloon tires are the best thing for heavy stuff here. Lots of muscle helps too.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Jaaay'eeezzzus, I just had a quick geez/read but wot'da'hell y'all going on about this Amazonian crap when ya cudd'da had this.
It was for sale for the longest time on CL.

BTW I don't beat myself up doing the whole deal, engine lift only, much easier, unless you have some aversion of working on your back or no transmission jack (the local Rent-A-Tool has them) heck I've used a floor jack and plywood to do 727's transmissions easy, even graduated to removing the jack pad and making up a wooden frame and bolting it into the pad hole to do 4x4 manual trans with the transfer case still attached. The only time I ever did (helped) do the BB & transmission removal was on a friends Monto Carlo.
No leveler thingy involved way back then, lotta muscle from extra bodies, bashed the **** out of everything. Never went back for the re-install (or showed up late, think beer time). Learned that lesson quick!

 

[TxDon]

Nice shop! Pretty work, w pretty stuff. I'm confined to grunge and caliche in this barrio slum, but I've managed to get that old iron out of the compartment well enough for tonight. Tomorrow, I need to prop it on TOP of the compartment, move stuff, then begin easing that elephant head down. I think I WILL get a lift plate tomorrow. I see them at sundry stores and they're not too costly. Good tool to have.

I don't have that space any more. My garage now only has an 8' ceiling so I doubt I could even pull an engine! I remember pulling a motor years ago on a piece of thin plywood over a gravel drive, my hat is off to you for effort! Be careful and good luck.

 

[Samplingman]

Pulling an engine on gravel, carpet and plywood? Try in the back yard, in the winter, in the mud. Good times, lol.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Pulling an engine on gravel, carpet and plywood? Try in the back yard, in the winter, in the mud. Good times, lol.

View attachment 498495

Yep! I think the mud is on order for later this week. The trick is in the MOVING stuff. I am blessed with an awning, and it HELPS. To work!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Jaaay'eeezzzus, I just had a quick geez/read but wot'da'hell y'all going on about this Amazonian crap when ya cudd'da had this.
It was for sale for the longest time on CL.

View attachment 498484

View attachment 498485

BTW I don't beat myself up doing the whole deal, engine lift only, much easier, unless you have some aversion of working on your back or no transmission jack (the local Rent-A-Tool has them) heck I've used a floor jack and plywood to do 727's transmissions easy, even graduated to removing the jack pad and making up a wooden frame and bolting it into the pad hole to do 4x4 manual trans with the transfer case still attached. The only time I ever did (helped) do the BB & transmission removal was on a friends Monto Carlo.
No leveler thingy involved way back then, lotta muscle from extra bodies, bashed the **** out of everything. Never went back for the re-install (or showed up late, think beer time). Learned that lesson quick!

Beer time helps motivate folks, IFF its GOOD beer. WHERE was that excellent old hoist listed? CL is great, but varies city to city, and points between.