Dynamat

mag162

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is it worth the bucks as far as road noise and such. A buddy is gonna weld in some floors pans for me and highly recommended using dynamat once he was done. He has used it in all his previous repairs. What say the experts?
 
I put Fatmat Rattle Trap sound deadener on the floor of my 300 and I think it helped quite a bit.

It was a lot cheaper than Dynamat too.
 
Agreed and I would recommend it and use an off-brand same stuff half the price. It is very easy to work with and definitely reduced road noise even in a convertible.

To compare prices I used B-Quiet and I know guys have used peel and seal roofing material from Home Depot too.

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used carpet underlay in my truck...prettywell free...waterproof and soundproof...
Zymurgys got the right idea...l looked all over but couldn't find any when l did the truck...underlay worked fine and cost me pennies as opposed to 3-400 some are payin for dynomat...and underlays a lot quieter....
 
used carpet underlay in my truck...prettywell free...waterproof and soundproof...
Zymurgys got the right idea...l looked all over but couldn't find any when l did the truck...underlay worked fine and cost me pennies as opposed to 3-400 some are payin for dynomat...and underlays a lot quieter....

What do you mean by carpet underlay? Foam pad?

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You better be careful with that. I saw a Studebaker go up in flames using padding as insulation. That stuff soaks up fuel vapor and oils easily.

You kinda reminded me...

If that is in fact what you're using... I back this up. From my knowledge in the industry, there was a limousine which had the interior "redone" using household carpets/pad. Because the thing was a piece of junk with cobbled-together everything, including exhaust, etc. it became hotter than it should have. Rear compartment burst into flames (while the driver was oblivious and on a bridge). Lots of lawsuits. Of course the limo company didn't have a dime, nor did whomever did the re-work, so the manufacturer was handed the lawsuit.
 
The way the sound deadners (Dynamat, Fatmat etc.) work is they dampen the vibration of the metal they are attached to. So all the road noises aren't amplified through the floor board. That's why they are heavy and thick.
 
I'm refinishing the floors in the vert, patching and then painting. I'm wondering if I should bother if the mat actually sticks to the floors. I still feel the need to coat with a barrier like POR15. Any risk of moisture getting trapped under this stuff and causing problems down the road? Any of you who used this not bother to finish the floors or even patch pin holes?
 
I'm refinishing the floors in the vert, patching and then painting. I'm wondering if I should bother if the mat actually sticks to the floors. I still feel the need to coat with a barrier like POR15. Any risk of moisture getting trapped under this stuff and causing problems down the road? Any of you who used this not bother to finish the floors or even patch pin holes?
My floors were pretty decent, although I did put a little POR15 on a couple spots that had surface rust.

In answer to your question, the stuff used is actually intended for roofing. If you put it down right, water won't get under it, just like it won't get under it on the roof of your house.

I'd still paint it but you really don't have to worry about moisture.
 
Depending on the condition of the resto - a spray on lining might be better. Dynamat works great. But it's heavy, and thick enough to be a problem if there's trim or stuff in certain areas. At least it has ben in the cars I used it in.
 
If you want to save money and weight, you don't need to cover all the panels. It is most effective to place in the center of each panel to dampen the main "drum-head" vibration mode (adding weight lowers the natural frequency). It also helps to block heat, so apply to firewall around engine and exhaust pipes. I think most cars today have damper material in the center of the outer door panels.
 
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