Electrical fire yay!

I put a 60amp alternator in my wagon last year, and also upgraded to the more modern voltage regulator. I have not had any problems with the way I wired my bypass up...which is how you did yours...since that post with the screen shot was from me. Sorry it did not work for you.

But as Bill mentioned it probably would be a good idea to bypass things permanently, as well as add a couple protective measure in the form of fusible links.
 
furyus 67 said:
One more, what's the best way to replace the one bulk head connector? I mean a source for the connections or a whole new engine harness?
Click to expand...

Bulkhead Connector parts


Napa...part number 784490 for male and 784491 for female. The package says GM on it, but they work on Mopars also.
 
your post made me go read more about this, and I found this link:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

but im still scared as hell to start in on this. really all we got to do is provide a new, fused, wire path? and it works? that's it?? mopar couldn't figure that out in 75+ years of ammeters?

the article above ^^ they drilled out the connector area and passed directly thru the bulkhead.
 
thrashingcows said:
I put a 60amp alternator in my wagon last year, and also upgraded to the more modern voltage regulator. I have not had any problems with the way I wired my bypass up...which is how you did yours...since that post with the screen shot was from me. Sorry it did not work for you.

But as Bill mentioned it probably would be a good idea to bypass things permanently, as well as add a couple protective measure in the form of fusible links.
Click to expand...
It happens Brian! Thanks for the concern. As I've been unwrapping and following wires I've found a few weak spots ! I'm sure it wasn't the way I did as much as some weak point somewhere else.
 
saylor said:
your post made me go read more about this, and I found this link:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

but im still scared as hell to start in on this. really all we got to do is provide a new, fused, wire path? and it works? that's it?? mopar couldn't figure that out in 75+ years of ammeters?

the article above ^^ they drilled out the connector area and passed directly thru the bulkhead.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link
Saylor! I had thought about drilling the bh connector and running a 10 through it but wasn't sure if I should. Now I will. Well I guess I know what I'm doing today!! Thanks again!! Thank you for part #s for those connectors too Fury! I'm goin to bypass that connector tho. No sense in replacing a weak point.
 
Rather than drill the firewall, I just replaced the male and female wire ends on the heavy #10 wire passing thru the bulkhead. My thinking being, "The factory connection lasted nearly 40 years of abuse, so a good rebuild should last forever now that the car is a pampered fair weather driver."
 
Just wanted to give a thanks for all the help and guidance! I ended up drilling the bh and running the wire through it. I also eliminated the ammeter all together. I also upgraded the charging system to a post 1970's voltage regulator. So in essence my electrical is now closer to this century. All of my connections are soldered and shrink wrapped with zero butt connectors! I ran a 14 gauge fusable link from the starter relay,connected to a 10 gauge that powers the interior. I also ran a fusable link with the 10 gauge wire from the alternator battery post to the starter relay. Both of the field wires are new 16 gauge. So far everything is working beautifully ! No more slow blinkers or dim lights!
 
You have to brake a few eggs to make an omelette.
 
Sorry to here about your troubles!
Im in the process of putting in a new after market harness now.
It is my first time diving this deep into the world of wiring, pray for me!
 
1BIGFISH68 said:
Sorry to here about your troubles!
Im in the process of putting in a new after market harness now.
It is my first time diving this deep into the world of wiring, pray for me!
Click to expand...
Good luck with it! It's not so bad with the right information and a some cool guys with a lil more experience! It's great now, definitely worth it! How'd that dash coming along?
 
furyus 67 said:
...... All of my connections are soldered and shrink wrapped with zero butt connectors! I ran a 14 gauge fusable link from the starter relay,connected to a 10 gauge that powers the interior.........
Click to expand...

You have been busy! One caution, when you solder stranded wire, the solder tends to wick up the wire. When cooled, an inch or more of the wire will be no longer be flexible stranded, it will be stiff like a solid core wire. This makes the soldered joint very susceptible to vibration and metal fatigue unless the wire is well braced to eliminate movement. The factory "soldered" joints are not solder, they are spot welded. In our cars this is not a big deal, we don't drive them enough.

A question why use a 14 gauge fusible link to protect a #10 wire? Shouldn't you use a 10 gauge fusible link?
 
Fury440 said:
A question why use a 14 gauge fusible link to protect a #10 wire? Shouldn't you use a 10 gauge fusible link?
Click to expand...
I thought the same thing but the link that saylor posted recommended tha 14, and so did a couple others. I did a little more research on the ole inter web , because everything on the web is tru right? heres another link for guidance that I used .
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
 
Well after screwing around with this electrical issue for a bit, I still have issues!! I've got a new post '70 55 amp alternator, I ran new wire for both fields and a new 8guage for the battery lead and it all worked for a minute! I swapped out the vr and now the interior lights and voltage gauge fluctuate. The lights will blink somewhat while the gauge will start bouncing at 14/15 volts. Could a bad vr do this?
 
Anybody? Could the regulator not have a good ground or???? As soon as it gets above 1200 rpm's the interior lights and the voltage gauge start to pulse...
 
Not sure of the size of alt you're using but the general concensus is that a "mega fuse" goes inline from the stranded 8 - 10 ga. wire from the alt or VR to the battery + terminal. The fuse should be sized 20% less than the max output amperage of the alt. A 10 ga. wire should run from the battery + terminal to the interior of the car ( supplies the fuse box) with a mega fuse rated for total load that you calculate adding up the amperage total of the fuses plus about 10% more for spikes when many things are turned on at once. Absolutely forget fusible links because fuses react quicker and are easier to replace. Use fine stranded wire, as the wrap of the individual strands add to the total of the load carrying capabilities of the wire. Somehow you seemed to have surpassed the load of the wire you ran and I would suspect leakage to ground along the way - perhaps chaffing or a poor connection that was arcing. Do not, I repeat, do not use the terminal at the bulk head connector to transmit amperage to the interior of the car. Install a new hole and grommet and run this supply cleanly to the fuse box. The mega fuse can be mounted on either side of the firewall but before the fuse box. Running excessive lengths of wire only adds to the resistance of the wire and that's the reason the charge wire of a suitable gauge runs directly from the alt to the battery.
 
Thanks for the response yatzee! I didn't have time to respond correctly yesterday will do after work today!
 
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