Electrical fire yay!

[saylor]

damn keep us posted.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

If it is a round back it has 6 diodes in it, 3 you can see on the back. If it is a square back they are in the rectifier that big square section on rear. Spraybomb rebuilders will not change them if they find a open rotor and when tested they charge so they are okay right.....wrong as you can see with your pulse.

 

[furyus 67]

Gotta love ancient Chinese auto parts! Not the first time I've bought "new" crap parts and probly won't be the last!

 

[furyus 67]

Again gentleman thanks for the help! Dave you were absolutely correct about the alternator! I swapped it out for another "new" one and no more light pulsing and I'm holding 12v consistently!! Thanks again!!

 

[BigFury]

Great thread! I ordered the basic schematic diagram from the Madd electrical site. Haven't got that far along and wanted to see what the consensus was on that "upgrade?" My car sat outside for 14 years and although I've had it running the wiring has been a big concern.:sFun_doh2:

 

[traintech55]

I had the same problem on my car. What I did was remove the wire on each side of the bulkhead, ran a small drill through the opening and then spliced in new solid wire. then I moved the fusible link in line between the battery and starter relay like the did in 69. no more problems.

 

[cantflip]

I had the same problem on my car. What I did was remove the wire on each side of the bulkhead, ran a small drill through the opening and then spliced in new solid wire. then I moved the fusible link in line between the battery and starter relay like the did in 69. no more problems.

Sounds good, hope it keeps working good.

Its the diodes in the alt making it pulse.

I have a very easy test for this. if you put your DMM on ac volts and measure with the leads hooked up to the battery, engine running. anything more than .5volts ac indicates one or more diodes not working.