Ill get a better picture tomorrow. My '69 definitely has a firewall ground.
Engine ground question
- Thread starter Fireguyfire
- Start date
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
It should. If it is 70 or newer it shouldn’t.
JimmyG
Member
There are 3 grounds. One comes off of the battery negative terminal and goes to the body near the battery, one bolts to the engine at the front of the block, near the end of the front of the driver's side head, above the power steering pump and below the valve cover, and then the rear ground at the back of the passenger side head as described by others (including me). Other years have used the flat ground woven cable (often called a strap) on the rear, but it is not applicable in your case.
In later years during the 70's a woven cable (strap) was used (74 up) and also when grounding hoods et etcetera for heavy duty police cars ( same era) so as to reduce electrical interference. Also not needed in your case.
In later years during the 70's a woven cable (strap) was used (74 up) and also when grounding hoods et etcetera for heavy duty police cars ( same era) so as to reduce electrical interference. Also not needed in your case.
livininharrow
Senior Member
you should have more ground straps than one would think. the more the better. scrape off any paint before grounding. just my 2 cents.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
That’s correct for 69 and older. 70 and newer will not have that wire. 70 and newer has a body ground at the core support that is part of the negative battery cable.
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
I did a concours restoration on a 69 Charger. You can see the ground cable.
Then my 72 Imperial you do not see a ground cable to the firewall.
Then my 72 Imperial you do not see a ground cable to the firewall.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
IMO, it is way more important that it is there and functions than if it is factory installed unless of course you are into concourse judging. I've never been too concerned about correctness since most of us add our own finger print anyway such as electronic ignition, different wheels, bigger carb etc. I make my own grounds using braided tinned conductor and crimped lugs. Simply because it is easier to recognize what it is and what it's job is. You can't have too many grounds but it is important that the ones you do have are clean and function properly. The biggest cause of electrical issues in our old iron is bad grounds and bad connections.
Im hoping thats whats wrong with some of my stuff. Im putting intake and valve cover gaskets in and thats how i learned about the grounds.
Im not going for show quality either. Im going for clean and fun haha.
Guys, don’t scrape off any paint! this is just plain bullshit advice.
The grounding takes place on the bolt threads and the bolt head.
The factory never scraped off any paint and they have made millions of cars that made it through warranty with no issues. How many factory original cars you take apart that have scraped paint under the grounded parts?
Anyone here ever worked at a car dealership or repair shop?
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
The factory maybe didn't scrape any paint off but they didn't put much more than one coat of paint on either. There must have been some grounding problems with the older cars since the newer ones have designated ground studs. I don't necessarily scrape any paint unless my ohm meter tells me my ground reference is not good enough. If I can't get less than .05 ohms to ground, I'm gonna scrape paint and or use a star washer to get what I want for a reading. Any thing other than a good ground is just plain bullshit advice. (IMO of course)
The_Eagles’_Nest
Well-Known Member
They had paint cutter bolts for grounds.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
True, true & true. It doesn't change the fact that grounding on repainted cars is a problem.
Maybe the sheet metal screws are just threading in and not cutting threads.
Alan
Maybe the sheet metal screws are just threading in and not cutting threads.
Alan
After 60 years I'm sure there is some rust
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