Engine Mounts

[live4theking]

I'm gong to change the engine mounts on my 68 NYer. The FSM just says to remove the bolts and raise the motor enough to remove the mount.

I thought that I'd put a block of wood on the front rail of the oil pan and jack it up but you cannot get to it.

How would you raise it up.

Thanks

 

[detmatt]

I've built a cradle out sturdy plywood that spans the pan and lifts at the pan rails.

 

[LatPeahy]

I did mine exactly how you're thinking of doing it. 4x8 piece of wood under the oil pan and jacked it up

 

[Big_John]

You could also lift the engine with a cherry picker.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Block of wood under the pan. Make sure you don't lift up so far as to have the fan hit the shroud if you have one.

 

[polara71]

Block of wood under the pan. Make sure you don't lift up so far as to have the fan hit the shroud if you have one.

I've done that and cracked the shroud . That was a hundred dollar mistake

 

[Yatzee]

I'm gong to change the engine mounts on my 68 NYer. The FSM just says to remove the bolts and raise the motor enough to remove the mount.

I thought that I'd put a block of wood on the front rail of the oil pan and jack it up but you cannot get to it.

How would you raise it up.

Thanks

Never rest a motor by the bottom of the pan. If I need to explain why you shouldn't be working on it. A cradle is the only way to go but first loosen the bottom bolt(s) on your tranny mount. The cradle can be made of cut 2x6 verticals with cross bridging screwed in to for sort of a double "H" shape. The cradle ideally rests against the bolts for the pan, not the pan itself. Remove some bolts and replace them with longer bolts if necessary to get away from the pan rail edge. If you're replacing the biscuits only you should do one side at a time and unbolt the upper engine bracket. Leaving the engine bracket in place means you'll have to lift the engine 1 1/2 inches to get the biscuits out and there may not be enough room at the tunnel for the tranny. The right side biscuit is a ***** to undo the nuts on the underside so work very safely minding your fingers.

 

[Snotty]

I've done that and cracked the shroud . That was a hundred dollar mistake

Yes!!! Take the time and remove the shroud first.

 

[Snotty]

I'm trying to remember how I replaced mine. I know I didn't raise it by the pan. ???

 

[live4theking]

Thanks guys. The cradle idea sounds like the way to go. Removing the shroud isn't that big of a deal verses finding another one.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I use a block of hardwood under the harmonic balancer and oil pan and a bottle jack beneath that. I also use a flat pry bar on the mounting point to ease the engine up and around those fractions of an inch when aligning the bolts with the holes in the block ears. Plan on trying NAPA's Balkamp label this time around, as the shitty Anchor rubbers from VatoZone broke just after 6 months, which is what they're warranted for.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

All the mounts are **** these days. I do not wish to change them again if I can help it as it's a beeyotch of a job.

I have modified my mounts to not pull apart, by drilling through and installing a 3/8ths bolt with a nylock nut. I used a 3/4" drill to countersink the head. Under the nylock head I made a rubber washer for cushioning.

Works like a charm, does not transfer vibration and the only difference is the tiniest of vibration when in reverse as the bolt head touches the frame as the mount is under compression in reverse.

Tip - don't drill the hole oversize at all. One wants the rubber of the mount to grip the bolt and not rattle around. The rubber does swell a bit and acts as a threaded shaft.

Tip 2 - Don't tighten the bolt down hard. This will make the mount solid, which you don't want. Tighten the bolt down only to engage the nylock and just (and only just) contacting the rubber washer.

 

[commando1]

Ross, I'm not quite understanding this. If you run a nut and bolt through the mount, aren't you effectively making it a solid mount?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

OOPS! I left out a critical piece of info!! Thank you for reminding me. I have edited my above post.

If I had tightened the nut down hard yes, but in this case I only just tighten the nut to just touch the rubber washer. This permits proper flex of the mount without making it solid.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Looks like a worthy enough DIY mod to try. Right now I've two chains on the driver side holding the 383 down firm, but the rubber biscuit itself has already parted, as I found a couple months ago. I have also considered using the sort of metal strap we call "plumbers tape" to hold the biscuit together , while still permitting it to absorb engine vibration. If I had extra $$ I'd just get a Polyloc, at least for the driver side. I like using the nyloc nut w a recessed bolt. Will let y'all know if/when I do it.

 

[polara71]

If I had extra $$ I'd just get a Polyloc

You would never regret it

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Apparently polylocs have been discontinued due to a problem with the type of rubber they've been using.

 

[polara71]

Apparently polylocs have been discontinued due to a problem with the type of rubber they've been using.

Booooooo they're a great mount sunnofabich

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I can't confirm as it's only hearsay at the moment... Nigel at National Moparts mentioned it.

 

[Gerald Morris]

You would never regret it

I'm sure I won't, but ~$110 apiece is steep. There are MANY items on my repair/upgrade list before I get to that point. Just ordered a new Melling M 63 oil pump for the 383 after an EXCELLENT compression check. Average compression is over 140 psi, which bodes well. Thats a tight old motor! For now, chains and lesser, mere rubber motor biscuits will have to suffice for mounting.