ENGINE removal question on 66 Chrysler 300

[Frank Odenthal]

I’m intentionally posting this topic here in the "slab side years" area and not in “Engine – Transmission and Driveline”, because it’s it could be a model year specific thing.
I’m in the process of removing my engine assembly for rebuild.

Looking into the 1966 Manual, the procedure is to remove the automatic transmission (727) first, before lifting the engine out of the chassis:

6. ….
7. Raise vehicle on a hoist and install engine support fixture Tool 0-3487 on frame to support rear of engine.
8. Drain transmission and torque convertor.
9. Disconnect exhaust pipes at manifolds, propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable and oil cooler lines at transmission.
10. Remove engine rear support crossmember and remove transmission from vehicle.
11. Lower vehicle and attach chain hoist to fixture eyebolt.
12. Remove engine front mounting bolts. Raise engine with a chain hoist and work engine out of chassis.
13. Place engine in repair stand….

Is there a reason for removing the transmission from the car first, before removing the engine?

Why not supporting the front of the transmission (bellhousing) in the chassis and remove the engine with the transmission left in the car ?
This is my plan, but I don’t want to run into trouble with this procedure. Therefore I’m seeking for advise.

I’m also looking for some ideas/advise to support the bellhousing in the frame, as long as engine is out. Someone made a simple support tool ?
I could just support the bellhousing with some wooden blocks from the ground, but this would make the car unmaneuverable for the moment after engine is out.

It’s my first engine removal on this type of car.

Sorry for that odd questions and thank you for any relevant comments.

Frank

 

[413]

Yes you can do that. Then with engine out you can make something to support trans to the frame rails so you can roll the car.

I like to remove the engine alone, then put a floor jack under trans and roll it forward and lift it out of the car with the engine hoist. Then I don't have to lay on the ground and wrestle the trans, it weighs more than I do! really. Works for me.

Also I don't have to remove the 10 - 12 bolts on the trans crossmember.

 

[Xcudame]

Just make sure you remove the radiator (and AC condenser) first before hoisting the engine as you will need to move the engine forward a couple inches so the flex plate will clear the transmission bell housing.

To support the transmission, you can use a close hanger dowel (about 1.5" in diameter) cut to fit between the inner fender wells and use bailing wire strung between the dowel and bolt holes in the bell housing.

 

[71Polara383]

I have a short pipe I slide under two of the 5/8 bolts in the lower part of the bellhousing and it rests on the T-bars. Has worked great for me for years

 

[Big_John]

Why not supporting the front of the transmission (bellhousing) in the chassis and remove the engine with the transmission left in the car ?
This is my plan, but I don’t want to run into trouble with this procedure. Therefore I’m seeking for advise.

The only issue with that is you have to watch the trans as the front of the car will raise as the weight of the engine is lifted. I have used a floor jack for this myself as I can jack it up a little as the engine comes out.

I’m also looking for some ideas/advise to support the bellhousing in the frame, as long as engine is out. Someone made a simple support tool ?
I could just support the bellhousing with some wooden blocks from the ground, but this would make the car unmaneuverable for the moment after engine is out.

Easiest way is to support it with a length of 2x4 or even 2x2 cut to fit on the frame rails. From there, you can either drill a couple holes in the wood that align with the trans bell housing or simply throw some long bolts in the bell housing and let them sit on top of the wood. Pipe or bar works great too. I have a cutoff torsion bar that I've used, but it's B-body length LOL.

One other thing, after you remove the engine to convertor bolts, slide the convertor back into the bell housing as far as it will go and clip a pair of visegrips to the bottom of the bell housing so it holds the convertor back into place. That will make reassembly much easier as you don't have to play with aligning the splines and trans fluid pump in the front of the trans.

 

[413]

You don't need to remove the A/C condensor. I like to remove the fan so it's out of the way, doesn't get damaged, and makes it that much shorter.

 

[Big_John]

You don't need to remove the A/C condensor. I like to remove the fan so it's out of the way, doesn't get damaged, and makes it that much shorter.

I agree, although I would put a thin piece of plywood between the engine and the condenser.

I've also removed the water pump housing so that I have even more room. I figure it's coming off anyway, so get it out of the way.

 

[Xcudame]

Really, the best way is to remove the engine, k-frame, and transmission assembled together from underneath the car by jacking up the body! That's how the factory assembled it! Much easier than you'd think!

 

[413]

There is no K frame on a C body, it's the front subframe. Much more work than a K frame.

 

[Big_John]

Really, the best way is to remove the engine, k-frame, and transmission assembled together from underneath the car by jacking up the body! That's how the factory assembled it! Much easier than you'd think!

Great for A, B, and E bodies.

C-bodies don't have a K frame. They have a stub frame

 

[Xcudame]

You're right, remove the entire sub frame! Makes it even easier!

 

[Big_John]

You're right, remove the entire sub frame! Makes it even easier!

Much harder. All the front-end sheet metal comes off, bumper, grille, radiator support etc. Except for releasing the tension on the torsion bars, the suspension doesn't need to come apart like a K-frame on like a B-body, but that's the only advantage. Basically, everything from the firewall forward comes off.

Then there's reassembling the front sheet metal and that will mean alignment of fenders, bumper, grille etc.

The stub frame (not sub) goes from the front bumper all the way back to the rear transmission mount.

 

[Xcudame]

If the engine needs rebuilt, doesn't all the suspension parts need to be addressed as well? Besides, my first post wasn't much different than what others posted. But if the engine has issues, surely the suspension does too. Just saying!

 

[413]

And the subframe has the parking brake cable and brake lines to remove also. You can remove front suspension from the subframe or K member just fine when it's in the car.

 

[commando1]

If the engine needs rebuilt, doesn't all the suspension parts need to be addressed as well? Besides, my first post wasn't much different than what others posted. But if the engine has issues, surely the suspension does too. Just saying!

That is a naive way of looking at things. 93% of the people out there doing this don't own a huge spacious shop with a lift.
And y'alls mumbo jumbled Big John's answer. He said, sTub frame.
Thank you.

 

[Frank Odenthal]

That‘s the reason I posted my question about how to remove the engine here under C-Body.. because it‘s specific.
Thank you all for your very helpful experience. I will follow the advise to Support the transmission on the t-bars and slightly lift the transmission with the jack when pulling engine to the front and up.
Heads and exhaust are already removed, as well as radiator and waterpump.

 

[Big_John]

That‘s the reason I posted my question about how to remove the engine here under C-Body.. because it‘s specific.
Thank you all for your very helpful experience. I will follow the advise to Support the transmission on the t-bars and slightly lift the transmission with the jack when pulling engine to the front and up.
Heads and exhaust are already removed, as well as radiator and waterpump.

View attachment 704294

That's good! The more stuff off the motor, the lighter it is. The lighter it is, the easier to lift and move. Simple physics.

I'll make a suggestion that you purchase a load leveler like this Harbor Fright one. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...velers/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html While you can do it without like I did for years, it does make things easier, especially when you put the engine back in.

 

[Frank Odenthal]

That's good! The more stuff off the motor, the lighter it is. The lighter it is, the easier to lift and move. Simple physics.

I'll make a suggestion that you purchase a load leveler like this Harbor Fright one. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...velers/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html While you can do it without like I did for years, it does make things easier, especially when you put the engine back in.

Hello John,
I got a low budget Engine Stand and Hoist, made in china for incredible low price...
It looks very solid and will make the once in a lifetime job.
I will sell it once the engine and transmission is back in.