Front Dash Speaker Recommendation(s)

rsbolin

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The stereo in my '78 NY Brougham works wonderfully. Even the cassette player works well. However, I have no sound whatsoever from the front dash speakers.

What is the recommendation for replacement of the factory original speakers? Car only has 17,740 miles, but sat for fifteen years in a conditioned facility. Surprised the front speakers did not survive. Any way, I want to replace the front dash speakers, and I may as well replace the rear speaker at the same time.

Happy motoring.

Ron
 
You may have already but just in case, did you verify that the speakers are faulty and not the wiring and/or the stereo output? Would be a shame if you got replacement speakers and they still don't work.
 
One other option is to get the existing speakers re-coned. There are also some YouTube videos on doing such. Key thing would be to get quality cones to replace them with. Doing a Google search for reconing speakers might surprise you.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I work in the music biz, and trouble shooting is the name of the game for audio...

No sound? Start at the beginning (or the end) and work to the other end. It's a pathway, and all parts must be in working order. Don't assume ANYTHING until you ascertain the issue(s).

1) Check that the speakers work first. Connect them with jumper wires to a known good audio source like your home stereo speaker outputs.

2) Check that the radio is outputting sound by connecting radio's speaker wires to another known working speaker, or, if you've not got extra speakers handy, you can hook the speaker wires of the radio to a low wattage light bulb - if it's good, the the bulb will glow when the radio is playing music. A song with lots of bass sends more power, and may be easier to see. You can also use a multi meter to do the same thing.

3) Check the continuity of the speaker wires coming out of the radio to the speakers in the dash. Check for any connectors that may have gotten unplugged etc.
 
Make sure it’s not the wiring, radio, or a fader/crossover problem. test the speaker first.

Make sure of the ohms of the speaker. 60’s early 70’s Chrysler products was 8 ohms. You can not easily find or buy a new 8 ohm speaker. 4 ohm will ruin the speaker driver inside the radio.

you can measure ohms across both terminals on one o the good speakers.
What year did they start using 4 ohm ? I just replaced the 6x9s in my 69 Dart and my 75 Imperial with 4 ohm speakers .
 
Looking at Retrosound to get the specs looks like shallow mount 3.5 and 6x9. All 4ohm. 6x9 depth is only 1.9"(48mm) and 3.5 is only 1.1"(28mm) Limited depth is the issue otherwise a ton of 4ohm 3.5 out there at better than retrosound prices. I would verify your depths first. Sometimes they are conservative or measured on a particular model that you dont have.
 
The issue with shallow depth speakers is the diameter of the magnet, which means the "circle" the speaker mounts into, at the bottom. Most aftermarket speakers have much larger magnets than the OEM speakers did, by observation. THAT might be why some retro brands might have higher prices?

Obviously, if the new retro speakers have some "fancier" cones (with "rolled" outer suspension areas of materials which allow the cone's center to move more freely (and accurately, by observation), that could be a reason for a higher price, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Good info above. if you do decide to just replace the front speaker and it isn't 8 ohm. take a look at Classic Car Speakers - Speakers for Classic Cars | Classic Car Stereos They are definitely a compromise in regards to sound quality, but if you don't want to cut the car etc, they are a huge improvement over stock.

I'm using a single front and a single rear in my Fury Vert and using a powered sub, it's actually not as horrible as I thought it would be.
 
From my experiences, the factory speakers from Chrysler were better than GM and Ford back then. Where the Ford speakers just sounded "flat", the GM speakers were just "good enough to sound decent", but missed lots of the high frequencies which the Chrysler speakers reproduced. And that was in the AM Radio days. When the stereo times arrived, the Chrysler sound systems were definitely better than what either Ford, GM, or others were. Then, with the 3 front speaker "spread" of the Fuselage stereos, it was even better. Easy to balance the f/r to put you "2 rows back" at the concert performances of the time. But the later 4-speaker factory systems were very good, too.

In the '66 Newport Town Sedan, with an additional factory rear seat speaker back there, that old AM radio had enough guts to drive rear seat passengers to where they were hanging on the top of the front seat back as it was so loud back there. I grinned when that happened. Wouldn't have happened in a similar Ford or GM car, for sure.

A convertible is a unique environment for a sound system. Lots of open space for the sound to migrate too, rather than being reflected toward the listener/passengers. But then, to me, driving a convertible is more about "being in nature" and all of the beauty that can have.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Looking at Retrosound to get the specs looks like shallow mount 3.5 and 6x9. All 4ohm. 6x9 depth is only 1.9"(48mm) and 3.5 is only 1.1"(28mm) Limited depth is the issue otherwise a ton of 4ohm 3.5 out there at better than retrosound prices. I would verify your depths first. Sometimes they are conservative or measured on a particular model that you dont have.
1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham so nothing but the best for my baby.
Went to Walmart, bought a pr. ea. of 3-1/2 " and 6x9".
The factory rears were 1 + wire and neg. was grounded to the speaker mount.
I always found that f@#$#g annoying.
 
Here is a trick an old auto radio speaker engineer friend told me, and it works. If the cone is not torn it may be brought back to life by spraying water on the cone, even if in the car. Wet it, don't drown it. Spray, let it dry, spray again, let it dry etc. for several treatments and let it dry before trying to use it. Most old cones dry out and won't vibrate or won't make sounds. Even as a preventative treatment spray some water on cones to keep them flexible.
 
Here is a trick an old auto radio speaker engineer friend told me, and it works. If the cone is not torn it may be brought back to life by spraying water on the cone, even if in the car. Wet it, don't drown it. Spray, let it dry, spray again, let it dry etc. for several treatments and let it dry before trying to use it. Most old cones dry out and won't vibrate or won't make sounds. Even as a preventative treatment spray some water on cones to keep them flexible.
croderique, I will give that a try. i doubt the cone is torn, but it is certainly dry. The car had sat in a conditioned garagre for the last 8 years in an owners car collection.
 
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