PontiacJim
Member
Nope, that would affect timing as it gets sloppy. Chains do wear/stretch. My experience is that factory chains wear out around 60-80,000 miles.
Fuel pump??? Bad??
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
Nope, that would affect timing as it gets sloppy. Chains do wear/stretch. My experience is that factory chains wear out around 60-80,000 miles.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
If it starts and runs it's not the timing chain. Choke plate is top front of carb is it closing? Points are not a visual without removing unless you are very experienced, they pit and or overheat/melt if key is left on with them closed, do not leave ignition on if car is not running with points.
You need to go step by step this jumping and guessing is not a way to fix it.
If gasoline is squirting in with throttle movement, it's not gas.
If you have compression and no compression huffing back through the carb the chain is good enough.
As Rip said 99% of all carb trouble is electrical.
Pull a plug, reconnect lead ground plug and see if it Sparks (helper to crank car)
You need to go step by step this jumping and guessing is not a way to fix it.
If gasoline is squirting in with throttle movement, it's not gas.
If you have compression and no compression huffing back through the carb the chain is good enough.
As Rip said 99% of all carb trouble is electrical.
Pull a plug, reconnect lead ground plug and see if it Sparks (helper to crank car)
PontiacJim
Member
"Spark plugs look good other than excessive fuel, which makes me still look towards spark"
You should not have any excessive fuel. Things to check are float level, faulty needle & seat, stuck needle & seat or float, choke sticking closed or not opening soon enough.
If the engine is flooding out, it will do exactly as you describe, idle good and then slowly die out as the gas floods the engine. This will build up excessive gas on the plugs leaving them wet.
The points and condensor can cause the car to flat out not run/start or run very rough. Here is a pic of the points & condensor looking down into your distributor (assuming no one has upgraded it to an electronic type) and a pic of the actual points & condensor. These have a specific gap/dwell setting. Sometimes the required gap will close up and can effect running, so this can be easily checked or set with a feeler gauge. They do wear out, can get corroded, or develop pitting.
The goo under the rotor might just be some corrosion or grease - nothing I would worry about.
It is still possible you have an ignition problem, but the fact that it idles and then dies does not indicate a spark problem - yet. I would focus on the carb before looking at replacing any more ignition items.
You should not have any excessive fuel. Things to check are float level, faulty needle & seat, stuck needle & seat or float, choke sticking closed or not opening soon enough.
If the engine is flooding out, it will do exactly as you describe, idle good and then slowly die out as the gas floods the engine. This will build up excessive gas on the plugs leaving them wet.
The points and condensor can cause the car to flat out not run/start or run very rough. Here is a pic of the points & condensor looking down into your distributor (assuming no one has upgraded it to an electronic type) and a pic of the actual points & condensor. These have a specific gap/dwell setting. Sometimes the required gap will close up and can effect running, so this can be easily checked or set with a feeler gauge. They do wear out, can get corroded, or develop pitting.
The goo under the rotor might just be some corrosion or grease - nothing I would worry about.
It is still possible you have an ignition problem, but the fact that it idles and then dies does not indicate a spark problem - yet. I would focus on the carb before looking at replacing any more ignition items.
PontiacJim
Member
"Pull a plug, reconnect lead ground plug and see if it Sparks (helper to crank car)"
This is a good way to check that you are getting spark to the plug. You should see a nice blue snappy spark to indicate your ignition is functioning at peak performance. If you do not get a nice spark, then test the coil/coil wire by pulling it out of the cap and placing the end near something metal, like the intake, and crank the engine. Again, you should see a nice spark. DO NOT HOLD the wire as you will get one heck of a shock! But you want to make sure it is not touching/laying on the metal as you want a slight gap so the spark will jump from the coil wire to the metal and you can see it. I have experienced a coil wire go bad on me when everything else was good.
This is a good way to check that you are getting spark to the plug. You should see a nice blue snappy spark to indicate your ignition is functioning at peak performance. If you do not get a nice spark, then test the coil/coil wire by pulling it out of the cap and placing the end near something metal, like the intake, and crank the engine. Again, you should see a nice spark. DO NOT HOLD the wire as you will get one heck of a shock! But you want to make sure it is not touching/laying on the metal as you want a slight gap so the spark will jump from the coil wire to the metal and you can see it. I have experienced a coil wire go bad on me when everything else was good.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The picture looking into the dist. looks like the points are to far off of the dist cam, leading me to believe your points do not have enough gap, not collapsing the field completely making a good spark. Can you get a picture with point wiper on the high spot, I'm thinking your points slipped or something. Get them up on the high spot and regap them at .017.
I was thinking that last night, looks like someone just put the points in and did not gap them as well. As of now she won't even turn over so charging the battery and going to go buy a feeler so I can set the points like you said
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I'm not sure what a "gabber" is, but all you need is a set of flat feeler gauges.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
If the engine turns over, the starter is OK. Next stop is to check yer coil to see if its putting out any juice to the distributor and on to the plugs.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. But I would do that with a plug wire instead. Kills two birds with one stone.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
There ya go. Looks like yer coil is toast; but try the test again with a couple of other plug wires, just to be sure the first plug wire or plug isn't bad.
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