Fuel pump??? Bad??

FuryDan66 said:
Replaced the voltage reg, resistor a new ignition coil and a new condenser and set the point set .0.017
Click to expand...

Sounds like you may not be getting juice to the coil. Could be your ignition switch or a bad connection / wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor and thence on to the coil. You should get a multi-meter and start checking your circuits. A wiring diagram would be a big help too.
 
FuryDan66 said:
Sounds good. This will be a long process lol
Click to expand...

Not really. You can do most of these checks in about fifteen minutes. All you hafta do is work backwards from the non-firing plugs to the source of the problem There is also one other point of failure involving the ammeter gauge where power goes into it on one side, out on the other and on to the ignition switch. @live4theking has had a lot of recent experience tracking down problems in this area. . .
 
just hotwire it, screwdriver across the solenoid, or better yet use the clip on cable push button type. May wanna get one of these...

spark-tester.jpg


Or of any other variety of your choice.
clipon sprakplug tester at DuckDuckGo
 
Yeah running out of time, but this weekend I'll just get a true spark plug tester and test all of them. Just over it now so before I set her on fire and call the insurance company I'm taking a break lol
 
Oh forgot to add, pretty clean engine/bay ya got there, the pic ***** in me want's to see a complete shot of the engine bay. (so do others I'm sure)
 
I disconnected the battery. You mean the yellow pig tail coming off the neg? That's been like that since I bought her.
 
First, quit changing parts out just 'cause. The ballast resistor and voltage regulator weren't your problem and screwing with them is just a waste of time and money.

Second, take a step back and start trying to diagnose your problem rather than guessing at them. Do you have a factory service manual? Download one here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Now, lets take a look at what has happened... So... The car is not running now.. Correct? You've gone from running rough to not running.

It's time to start looking at what was done and if anything needs to be "undone". Please don't be insulted by this next couple questions, I have no idea what you can and can't do.

When you set the points, were they set so they open to .017" and then close completely as the distributor turns?

Have you had any of the spark plugs wires off or rotate the distributor? I ask that because of the angle of the vacuum advance toward the radiator. If you haven't touched them, disregard that for now and circle back after the car is running again.

Is the distributor cap seated all the way down on the distributor? Rotor in place correctly?

Those are the first things to check.

Since it was running, I doubt if it's a wiring or ignition switch problem but it's a quick check and let's eliminate them. Put a test light or digital multimeter on the plus side of the coil. Turn the ignition to "on". You should have voltage there. Now turn the engine over. Again, you should have voltage. That just tested the ballast resistor, ignition switch and associated wiring.



There's some places to start.... Let's see if you can get it to fire up again.
 
So cap and rotor good, points seemed completely close when on the distributor lobe. Cap was removed and yes the rotor back in place, as far as spark plug wires only one was removed but all were checked to make sure they're on and tight. I checked the coil today with the key on and both +/- lite up with the test light. As far as the distributor it nor the vacuum advance was ever moved or touched. But going back to the spark plugs I didn't have any spark coming from the one I pulled and tried to ground.
 
FuryDan66 said:
I checked the coil today with the key on and both +/- lite up with the test light.
Click to expand...

How did you check the "-" post on the coil?

I should have been specific and said "One test lead on the + coil terminal and one on a good ground".

Hook your test light between the - and the + terminals. It should flash off and on when you turn the engine over with the key.
 
Ran the ground on the test light to the frame of the car. Turned the key to the on position and then placed the test light probe to the positive end on the coil then repeated the same step with the neg end(what I me by the negative end is the other terminal on the coil other than the + one ). Each time both the positive and neg caused the test light to stay lit. I didn't have anyone to turn over the car so that was all I was able to do.
 
FuryDan66 said:
Ran the ground on the test light to the frame of the car. Turned the key to the on position and then placed the test light probe to the positive end on the coil then repeated the same step with the neg end(what I me by the negative end is the other terminal on the coil other than the + one ). Each time both the positive and neg caused the test light to stay lit. I didn't have anyone to turn over the car so that was all I was able to do.
Click to expand...
It is very important that you check the + terminal of the coil in both the "start" and the "run" key positions.... and you have to check to see if it's flashing when it's cranking.

If you don't have someone to help, then maybe some long test wires so the test light is visible from the driver's seat or reaching through the window... or... turn the lights off in your garage at night and do the test.
 
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