So just went out again. I Then repeated the steps, I grounded the test light and placed the test light on the + part of the coil. At first the light came on (with the key turned not started). Then when I went to crank the car she wouldn't crank at all. I then replaced the test light back on the + part of the coil and now this time the light did not come on. I took the test light to the + side of the battery and it turn on so not sure what that means other than a short or ignition issue?
Fuel pump??? Bad??
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
The starter isn't turning over the engine?
OK, a quick explanation of how it works... When you start your car, you twist the key and you send 12 volts to the starter (relay etc.) and 12 volts directly to the coil. It bypasses the ballast resistor at this point. The engine starts and you let off the key and now you send 12 volts to the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor limits the amount of current and sends it to the coil.
If there isn't 12 volts being sent to the coil when you try to start the car, obviously, it won't start. If no power sent to the ballast resistor after it starts, then it won't run even though it might have started. That is the reason for the test light checking voltage in both positions of the key.
Connecting the test light to the + and the - terminals of the coil is going to show you by flashing that the points are opening and closing and that the connections to the points are good.
Sounds about right... the car spins but that's it. I know when I bought the car, I was wondering if the starter was going. The reason I thought this , was when turning over the car it would take a few sec and would sound like gears grinding almost like grinding a manual transmission.
PontiacJim
Member
Good explanation by Big_John. You are learning that there are a number of areas to look/test, but eventually you will get it.
Won't crank? My '73 won't start if the column shift is just a hair off of the "Park" position. You have a neutral safety switch somewhere on your shifter - column or floor shift. Either jiggle it in Park or put it into Neutral and see if that helps. Just another suggestion to confuse you. LOL
Something to consider: If your ignition switch (key) has gone bad or is going bad, it may not supply power to the coil once you let the key snap back to the "run" position after the engine cranks and catches.
You can test this by running a jumper wire directly off the + terminal at the battery and connect it to the + side of the coil. If you can get the car to turn over again, the jumper wire will bypass the key "run" position as you crank the engine. If it starts, then you may have a bad ignition switch (key). I am not familiar with Mopar wiring, but there may be a fuseable link (?) or you may have a loose/bad wire along the ignition path to the key. Have had others find a poor connection at the junction block where the wiring goes in at the firewall on GM cars as it is 2 piece -especially if someone has pulled it apart during a restoration or wiring replacement. The contact points inside an ignition switch can/do wear out - personal experience on this one.
NOTE: if the engine does fire up and run, it will not shut off with the key as you have bypassed the key with the jumper wire. You have to pull off the jumper wire to stop the engine. Don't run the engine for long if it fires up, you are just testing the ignition switch/wiring and don't want to do any damage should there actually be a short/ground somewhere in the wiring.
Won't crank? My '73 won't start if the column shift is just a hair off of the "Park" position. You have a neutral safety switch somewhere on your shifter - column or floor shift. Either jiggle it in Park or put it into Neutral and see if that helps. Just another suggestion to confuse you. LOL
Something to consider: If your ignition switch (key) has gone bad or is going bad, it may not supply power to the coil once you let the key snap back to the "run" position after the engine cranks and catches.
You can test this by running a jumper wire directly off the + terminal at the battery and connect it to the + side of the coil. If you can get the car to turn over again, the jumper wire will bypass the key "run" position as you crank the engine. If it starts, then you may have a bad ignition switch (key). I am not familiar with Mopar wiring, but there may be a fuseable link (?) or you may have a loose/bad wire along the ignition path to the key. Have had others find a poor connection at the junction block where the wiring goes in at the firewall on GM cars as it is 2 piece -especially if someone has pulled it apart during a restoration or wiring replacement. The contact points inside an ignition switch can/do wear out - personal experience on this one.
NOTE: if the engine does fire up and run, it will not shut off with the key as you have bypassed the key with the jumper wire. You have to pull off the jumper wire to stop the engine. Don't run the engine for long if it fires up, you are just testing the ignition switch/wiring and don't want to do any damage should there actually be a short/ground somewhere in the wiring.
Doing the test I suggested will tell you if the ignition switch is good.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
How was this determined? Curious.
Turned the crank shaft and it took more than 7 degrees on the belt to move it. So I'm assuming it either skipped more than 2 teeth or possibly broke entirely. If the belt/chain was in proper position when turning the crank the rotor should have rotated prior than 7- 10 degrees on the belt.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Sounds like chain is wooped, will not hurt to change it, it will make the throttle response better.
I question whether it is the root of your problem but I'm not standing there so hard to say.
If you could get a compression check done, it would be easier and validate the chain issue.
I question whether it is the root of your problem but I'm not standing there so hard to say.
If you could get a compression check done, it would be easier and validate the chain issue.
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