Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

[SF-66TC]

One other thing I forgot, Did you get new lug nuts for the new rotor? if your drivers side drum has an "L" stamped in the studs instead of an "R" you will not be able to use them. It might also be a good time to change the studs on the drivers side rear axle since you are doing the brakes. It ain't easy finding left handed lug nuts anymore.

When I got my Rallye Road Wheels I got 10 L-hand chrome lug nuts with them. When I did the disc conversion I had to get 10 R-hand chrome lug nuts for it and when I change the L-rear axle bearing I'll change the studs at that time. When I got the new tires mounted I had to remind them about the L-hand threaded nuts on the rear - the car is older than all those fellas at America's Tires so of course they wouldn't know LOL!!

 

[Big_John]

View attachment 75373 LOL, I'm no Superman, but I was still able to tear down the front suspension with my bare hands! I actually pulled the upper and lower control arms, which in hindsight made it harder to remove the ball joints, and they were heavy. And yes, Big John, those bolt heads spun without a wrench on one end! However, if Gary is getting all of the parts from a '73 I would think all the hardware is included. Based on the number of pages in this thread at least we can agree, there are many different ways to skin a Newport.

The thing to remember here is Gary is reusing the lower ball joints. He has no need to separate them from the lower control arm.

 

[Samplingman]

The thing to remember here is Gary is reusing the lower ball joints. He has no need to separate them from the lower control arm.

I was going to re-use mine, but the boots were split. I ended up replacing them with parts from PST.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

When I got my Rallye Road Wheels I got 10 L-hand chrome lug nuts with them

If you did not use the chrome LH lug nuts do you want to sell them?

 

[SF-66TC]

If you did not use the chrome LH lug nuts do you want to sell them?

Sure, I'll get back to you when I change the rear axle bearing. It won't be for a bit though, but I'll remember!

 

[70_NPORT]

Not sure why you have to take the drum off at all. you are removing the spindles, correct? release the tension on the torsion bars, pop the upper and lower ball joints and the tie rod end and remove as a unit.

alright. I think I'm gonna have to use this approach on the pass side. I've been banging away at this drum and it just will not let go, and I need this damn thing off already. I KNEW this wasn't gonna go perfectly. So what's the story with this? Put a jack beneath the LCA?

 

[70_NPORT]

So I'm looking at this......I can see how the whole assy can come out without pulling drum off.

 

[Big_John]

alright. I think I'm gonna have to use this approach on the pass side. I've been banging away at this drum and it just will not let go, and I need this damn thing off already. I KNEW this wasn't gonna go perfectly. So what's the story with this? Put a jack beneath the torsion bar?

That is not the best way to do this..It's a lot more work.

IF you want to do it this way. In addition to other steps:
1.Loosen the torsion bar.
2.Separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm
3.Separate the lower ball joint from the tie rod end.

Once you have it apart, since you say you can't get the drum off, you will need to buy a new ball joint for that side.


Gary... The drum will come off. Two pry bars if necessary, but it will come off. It will make the job go much easier.

The jack stand goes under the lower control arm. Go back and read what traintech said.

 

[70_NPORT]

That is not the best way to do this..It's a lot more work.

IF you want to do it this way. In addition to other steps:
1.Loosen the torsion bar.
2.Separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm
3.Separate the lower ball joint from the tie rod end.

Once you have it apart, since you say you can't get the drum off, you will need to buy a new ball joint for that side.


Gary... The drum will come off. Two pry bars if necessary, but it will come off. It will make the job go much easier.

The jack stand goes under the lower control arm. Go back and read what traintech said.

Yea...just caught that..dont know why I said torsion bar. Ive been trying to get this drum of with a big 4lb sledge hammer...it budges just a tiny bit...and trying to pry it loose with a pretty good sized flat head screw driver.

 

[saylor]

torsion bars are no joke. unload the tension in them if you are not sure of what you are doing.

alignment = $79

broke leg or worse = $$$$


try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Big_John]

Yea...just caught that..dont know why I said torsion bar. Ive been trying to get this drum of with a big 4lb sledge hammer...it budges just a tiny bit...and trying to pry it loose with a pretty good sized flat head screw driver.

Get a real pry bar in there. The only thing holding is the brake shoes.

Have you loosened the brake shoe adjuster????

 

[70_NPORT]

Get a real pry bar in there. The only thing holding is the brake shoes.

Have you loosened the brake shoe adjuster????

Yeh. I'm still going at it. Lots of dust falling out.

 

[Big_John]

Yeh. I'm still going at it. Lots of dust falling out.

The worst you will do is screw up the brake shoes.

 

[70_NPORT]

The worst you will do is screw up the brake shoes.

OH their gonna be F'd up alright. Its starting to move a bit now..

 

[70_NPORT]

DONE!

This SOB refused to give up the drum...but I got it.

 

[SF-66TC]

DONE!View attachment 75499
This SOB refused to give up the drum...but I got it.

GREAT! Just remove the 4 bolts/nuts and pull the entire brake assembly (backing plate & shoes) off together.

 

[Big_John]

GREAT! Just remove the 4 bolts/nuts and pull the entire brake assembly (backing plate & shoes) off together.

x2.

You have to take the two bolts off at the bottom anyway. Taking the entire backing plate off will make it easier to separate the upper ball joint.

 

[Big_John]

Is there a jack stand under thaat lower control arm? Do that before anything else!

 

[SF-66TC]

DONE!View attachment 75499
This SOB refused to give up the drum...but I got it.

Gary, did you back off the adjusters... they still look pretty extended. It was suggested to loosen them all the way. If you didn't that's why it was so hard to get the drum off.

To back them off, take the little rubber cap off from the rear side of the backing plate and use a large flat head screw driver to spin the star wheel.

 

[SF-66TC]

Is there a jack stand under thaat lower control arm? Do that before anything else!

In my instructions I suggested in Step #4 to place a jack under the control arm and jack it up an additional 4" or so - it's to help relieve the pressure of the tortion bar to make removal of the old spindle and installation of the disc spindle easier.