commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yep. In fact, mine is the the actual Miller tool spec'd out in the FSM. Found it on ebay.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
stubs300
Senior Member
WOW, all this work, and for what? I used the SSBC on my 300, got to keep the 14" wheels. Bolt on and go! The only thing I had to add was a 5/16" spacer to keep it from rubbing. Good Luck
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Uhg....
I know...but my gut is saying I want to keep it all Chrysler stuff.
I know...but my gut is saying I want to keep it all Chrysler stuff.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Spacers are wrong. It's not even a subject for debate. Try all you want to convince me otherwise but it's as lazy as sticking on Buick portholes from PepBoys.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Nice photo essay, good write up, good info.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yup..absolutely helpful.
stubs300
Senior Member
I had to otherwise they'd rub the tire. SSBC was speechless as to why when asked about it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I understand. After all, the spacers are only temporary till you get the 15 inchers...
stubs300
Senior Member
Nope, Not goin to happen! I don't want to lose the spinners that are on there, that's why I went with the SSBC road, to keep the 14's.
rags
Senior Member
no one here has ever separated a front end just using a big hammer? smack the rounded area of the steering knuckle where the ball joint pin goes through. same with the lower control arm, etc. might take a half dozen good whacks but should pop right out. seriously? no front end guys here?
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I got nothin'.
I have. I didn't own a large pickle fork for a long time.
It's a matter of opinion what works better. I like the big hammer method myself, but this is his first time doing front end work. Most people have used a pickle fork and are familiar enough that we can walk him through it.
rags
Senior Member
i don't own a fork and wouldn't bother. guaranteed ripped boot, but not guaranteed to separate the joint. teach him the pro way. there are videos dammit! (hard not to get excited. it's the easiest pro trick out there.)
Good point. You don't need to get too excited, I think we are all on the same page.... We just want to help Gary.
We'll give him some methods and see what he wants to do.
Yes, it really is - was. When I moved here to Chico I put 6 hours between him and me.
But, we still talk on the phone and via Internet. I had a Missionary friend from South America need help on a pick-up last week. I couldn't diagnose his problem, so I gave him Chris' email. Chris did! That's a good friend, indeed!
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
And Im very grateful for all the different opinions on this; helps me to decide wut I should do cuase honestly I have no idea. Never did a drum to disc conversion before so its new thing for me. I have a line on some 73' C body spindles..so I think this is gonna happen.
Was going to say the same Stanley.
I have, but don't like to. All I can think of is the possibility - albeit rare - of flaring the end of that threaded joint and then I'm in for some real hurt. I do not have cutting tools. Even so, I did do it on my T-bird when I rebuilt its front-end.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I use this for most all front end work when replacing parts, if I just have to remove something and don't want a torn boot I use a large hammer or the hammer for the air chisel
rags
Senior Member
doesn't involve hitting the threaded end of the pin. hit the side of the thing that the pin fits into. might hit the side of the threads if aim is real bad. gary, seriously, separating the front end parts is by far the easiest part of the conversion. wish i could show you, but there are videos. also, yes to factory parts. these guys have given you good advice. they're a great bunch.
Similar threads
