Got my 66 383 block back from the machine shop

My late machine shop associate used to laugh about "Mopar freaks carrying 'Their Bible' with them when they came in to ask about getting something done". "The Bible" was the old Direct Connection 1000+page Race Manual. He understood their concerns, but he also was a one-man machine shop and had to be busy getting things done to keep his customers happy. That orientation was one reason that he sometimes didn't answer the phone, too!

One of Tommy's good traits was that he remembered that at one time, he was "young and learning", too. Which is where the friendship orientation came into the mix. That it turned out that he went to school with Dad's younger sisters didn't hurt anything either, as it sped-up the friend process, it seemed. That I was into cars and worked in Chevy Parts helped, too.

Still, he had his days that were not as good as he might have wanted them to be. In those days, we were sharing a space where he'd moved into, so I knew enough by that time to stay out of his way in getting things done. Many other machine shop owners I've known have been a little eccentric in this way, too.

Unfortunately, being that way can give the impression that they have "an attitude", and SOME do. Don't question them about what they do or how they do it, just "comply", it seems. So, in order to "get answers", some care is needed on the customer's part. Talk calmly as a friend rather than "a paying customer with demands", can tend to work best. What might be considered to be a normal question to a customer can be taken as "Sure I do that, as that's how it should be done", as if it was some challenge to their abilities or otherwise. In some cases, if you might have a friend that has had work done there before and has been a customer, it might be good to get them to introduce you and start a conversation about your car and what you want to do. As if this is a pre-qualifier situation.

As Tommy passed away a few years ago, I'm now in the position of looking for somebody else to do my engine things. So I'll be shopping around too.

ONE word of caution, as you have the block in your possession, be VERY careful about doing any further de-burring or casting flash removal on the inside of the engine. Same on using any ScotchBrite pads, too! These things can introduce grit and abrasive items into the mix in a place they don't need to be, especially after the machine work has been done and the shop cleaned everything they did, delivering you a clean block to deal with. At this point in time, consider all of that "good enough" as it was like that from the factory. Don't be potentially causing future failures, no matter what.

I can't address the higher prices in Canada, as to machine work or parts, but some machinists that I've known have been a little cranky to deal with, until you get to know them and they know you better. I always respected the orientation that if they were not busy, they weren't paying their bills. This last part can get overshadowed when customers, they perceive, don't understand this, by observation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Well stated. All of my business is based on referral. I have neither time nor want of customers that have no trust. They were sent to me based on reputation. If you like arguing, go somewhere that they're used to that.

And if you start scotchbriting something internal, good luck with your new motor.
 
if the pistons don't have valve reliefs your going be about 9.65 compression about right for iron heads. for alum heads that is going to be on the low side.
 
Well stated. All of my business is based on referral. I have neither time nor want of customers that have no trust. They were sent to me based on reputation. If you like arguing, go somewhere that they're used to that.

And if you start scotchbriting something internal, good luck with your new motor.

Yup, best to do all cleaning, polishing, grinding before putting the oil galley plugs back in and give it a final wash.

A small slightly worn scotchbrite pad, wet with WD, works well for any last minute touch-ups though and won't distribute grit like grinding would. In the case of the lifter bores, could easily wash those out with brakeclean after.... I would not mess with the casting flash at this point unless the OP wants to take it back to the shop to have the block rinsed and blown out again. I don't see any value in that anyway.
 
well thats the issue. I have stock 516 heads that need to be rebuilt or buy stealth heads. Its gonna be a small fortune either way
Spend the small fortune on new aluminum. It won't be nearly as fussy about the fuel you feed it, and no matter whose head you chose, a noticeable increase in performance from increased air flow over stock.

I was surprised that you said they cut the decks .010". The reason I mentioned the deck was what appears to be a gouge indicated in this pic.

Kevin

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if the pistons don't have valve reliefs your going be about 9.65 compression about right for iron heads. for alum heads that is going to be on the low side.
I didn't read your post right. i thought it said .010 deck height not that you cut .010 off the block. so where are the pistons in the hole or what is your pin height ? you need to know what your compression is going to be.
 
I didn't read your post right. i thought it said .010 deck height not that you cut .010 off the block. so where are the pistons in the hole or what is your pin height ? you need to know what your compression is going to be.
yes he true'd the deck and it was about 10. the light was playing games I'll post some pics in a bit, just in the middle of painting
 
This camera doesnt seem to like to play with this light or something.
I see some lint and I think the shop coated the surface a bit. I will wipe it down with acetone I guess on build day.
does it look ok? hopefully its a good enough surface for steel shims like the factory gaskets?



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I would not run the factory steel shim head gaskets with the alum heads on an iron block.
 
well thats the issue. I have stock 516 heads that need to be rebuilt or buy stealth heads. Its gonna be a small fortune either way

I'm running rebuilt 516 heads on my '66 300 440. Also running a dual pattern Comp cam that somewhat accommodates the 516's smaller exhaust valve. Throttle response is fantastic and the engine has really good power.
 
to run the alum heads you should have about 10.25 compression. if you have lower compression with that good size 230-236 cam and bigger port heads you will have no low end torque
 
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