Has the RV2 compressor an oil pump?

[Hurst Pete]

Hello
I bought a rebuild RV2 A/C compressor from the US and I am wondering, how much oil (and what kind of oil) I must fill into the sump to start it the first time.
I intend to use so called 406 liquid, R12 is no longer available in Europe.
Thank you for a response.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

If your system is fully flushed so that there is NO oil in the condenser, receiver and evaporator (and the lines and hoses), the compressor gets 10-11 oz of oil.

If the system is not flushed (but it SHOULD be!), the totally empty sump gets 8 oz. It's all in a Factory Service Manual, including how to make a dipstick for checking that sump level.

And yes, there is an oil pump built into the compressor to lube the crank and bearings.

The type of oil you will use depends on your refrigerant. I use R12, so I use wax-free mineral oil from the old days. Your 406 requires something different, but I'm sure you'll quickly be able to determine that.

 

[Davea Lux]

R406 is compatible with the mineral type compressor oil and that is what you should use unless you are sure all of the old oil in the system has been removed. The RV-2 compressor has an oil pump in the rear of the case it is the small gear under the square cover. Look at seal 24-25-252, the pump components are next to it on the diagram. 10-12 oz of oil is the correct for a dry system unless yours is a dual evaporator system with a rear mounted unit. In that case add another 3 oz of oil. If your compressor failed and seized, there is a strong likely hood that the condenser and filter dryer are filled with metal shavings as well as any oil that remains in the system. The condenser should be removed and flushed and the filter dryer needs to be replaced. To do the job right, the hoses and evaporator should also be flushed as starting with a system that is clean will insure longer compressor life.

Dave

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

1. Dave Lux is the resident master regarding our AC systems. Do what he says!

2. As for your rebuilt RV2, read this: warning about rebuilt RV2 a/c compressors

 

[Hurst Pete]

Wow, very quick answer, thank you!
The whole A/C system has new components, NOS new lines and a new dryer from ebay. There is no old oil stuff left inside.
I will check out about the oil tomorrow, it`s 8`clock night time already here in Switzerland.
Last question: Let`s say I make 1000 miles every year, what is the intervall of checks i need to service the RV2 oil level?

 

[Hurst Pete]

Okay, trace Hurst,
I will check out who sold me the RV2 2 yeras ago. I hope it wasn`t the company you mentioned in the thread!

 

[Lefty71]

Seal that can of R-406 up when you are done with it (brass screw cap). You may have trouble getting more in the future, since is it more than half R-22 anyway.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Last question: Let`s say I make 1000 miles every year, what is the intervall of checks i need to service the RV2 oil level?

Never. Ever. Unless you see leakage from the compressor or a fitting somewhere, there is zero maintenance.

But what you will want to do, once you have the system nicely charged (3.5 lbs?) and the sight glass on your receiver is clear (instead of foamy during the early charging process), is occasionally have a look at that sight glass to see that it's still clear (AC running). If it is, nothing else to do. If it's beginning to show foam, you have a leak somewhere.

As far as detecting a leak, might I suggest a dye in your compressor oil such as you'll see in the picture below. It doesn't take much (like 1/2 ounce) and it glows like crazy under UV light. Most of these dye kits come with a UV penlight. Works quite well.

And here is a pic of my easily-made compressor oil dipstick. Notice the two marks....those are the 1-5/8ths and 2-3/8ths "reading marks" as per the FSM. The brass ferrule is a common 1/4 NPT (it is common in the US!) that was easily turned down to the diameter of the oil plug opening by chucking it in a drill and holding a file against it until you get the necessary diameter to go in the hole so that the hex seats on the outside of the compressor housing at the hole. Then you solder, braze, or simply epoxy that ferrule to a think wire at the height as shown in the FSM. It needs a little bend to that it clears the rod/crank assemble inside. I made this tool in maybe 10 minutes.

 

[5wndwcpe]

A bit late if your compressor is already installed, but you should make sure the rebuilt unit has the spring and rubber check ball. The last couple of re-mans I went through did not. They are part of the oil system.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

A bit late if your compressor is already installed, but you should make sure the rebuilt unit has the spring and rubber check ball. The last couple of re-mans I went through did not. They are part of the oil system.

Yep, and that's NOT GOOD. But note that later compressors DID NOT use the ball and spring, and there's no passage for it in the crankcase (see pic below). I think I discussed that in the link above, and maybe in some other thread.

My problems were:
1. Crud stuck to the inside of the sump. It was baked on, and thus minor, but still worrisome.
2. No checkball and spring. I fussed to Four Seasons and a tech there sent me a kit with a steel ball.
3. Once installed and charged, my gas seal wasn't even close to being installed correctly. Just WTF are they rebuilding with these things? The paint job, I guess.

Here's where the checkball and spring go. If there's no passage at this location, you have a newer pump system so no worries.

This is where dye comes in VERY handy....looking for leaks. My gas seal was leaking immediately after charging and running the system. Never had a chance. I bought a $10 aftermarket seal kit from AutoZone and that solved the problem.

And finally, a compressor crankcase with NO checkball and spring. See the red dot on the gasket surface? That's where it's "not".

 

[Hurst Pete]

A very informativ thread, thanks to all!
Lot`s of the A/C RV2 secrets I was wondering about are now solved.
I will disassemble the compressor to check out everything if it comes from 4 Season.

One more question: the RV2 came without EPR valve at the backside, I just put in a new NOS part from ebay USA and put on a new green rubber seal ring.
The whole system has only green seals on it.
Does that work with the 406 liquid?

 

[Davea Lux]

The green seals are fine, they are high density rubber that are designed to contain the smaller gas molecule for R-134a, another potential gas conversion. They will work with R-12, R-134a or R-406. Be sure to apply lots of mineral oil to the seal so that it does not get damaged installing the EPR valve.

Dave

 

[Hurst Pete]

Thanks, Dave.

 

[Hurst Pete]

Found the bill from my rebuild RV2.
It`s from "Layson`s Restorations" in Washington: LAYSON'S RESTORATIONS - DODGE, CHRYSLER, PLYMOUTH RESTORATION PARTS

I think there is no need to open the the RV2.
Laysons seems to me to be a serious company, right?

 

[detmatt]

Not if they sent you 42,370 hood emblems at $44 each.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I'm confused.

Yes, Layson's is a quality company, but they don't rebuild the compressor themselves (unlike Firm Feel, who really does hand-rebuild the power steering units they $ell. I have one....love it.).

Your receipt shows a Sanden compressor from Layson's. Sanden does not rebuild compressors, according to their website. So, is it a Sanden and NOT a RV2? A Sanden 508 is NOT a RV2, it's a rotary piston device.

So, what do you actually have?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I have a couple of Four Seasons rebuilts in a box ready for use - I will be going through them to check they're properly done... BEFORE the system gets fired up.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I have a couple of Four Seasons rebuilts in a box ready for use - I will be going through them to check they're properly done... BEFORE the system gets fired up.

Except you can't test the damn gas seal, which in my case failed immediately. It's a pressure-triggered seal, so pulling a vacuum on the compressor to see if it's "tight" won't tell you anything.

If I ever have to deal with a 4S rebuild again, I'll install this $8 kit myself to make it right the first time.
Beware of NOS kits. They've been sitting for 50 years, sealed to a piece of cardboard (moisture wick!!). I bought one for $$$$....and the critical mirror-finish seal surface was as rusty as a junkyard trunk floor.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Good to know - I'll definitely take that advice to heart.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Good to know - I'll definitely take that advice to heart.

Best eight bucks you'll ever spend.

And as a plus, the slightly confusing arrangement of the seals is correctly staged within the Santech kit (and sealed from corrosion!), whereas the NOS kits have the seals back to back (and thus confusing if you haven't done this before) so the critical sealing surfaces aren't touching each other and causing "shelf wear". Good idea back in the day, but too bad they corrode before that ever happens....