Heating your workspace

[livininharrow]

I don't work in my garage at home in the winter, I go to work, all my tools are there anyway. A friend of mine has a 30 x 40 shop that is uninsulated and a little drafty and anytime we have to work there in the winter he has 2 kerosene torpedo heaters, warms it up nicely when there running, but gets cold fast when they shut off. They work good but are noisy.

kerosene here is roughly 5 dollars a gallon. works fine to warm up your *** temporarily.

 

[WissaMan]

I was curious about this same thing. The building I work in is a 50x120 uninsulated metal quonset that's about 25ft tall at the center...so there's a snowball's chance in hell of actually trying to heat it. So my only chance is to just try and warm the spot where I'm working. My research led me to think that radiant kerosene is going to be the most cost effective way to be able to get work done during the winter months.

I picked up one of these yesterday at Tractor Supply Co and tried it out last night for a little while. I was pretty impressed with it. After the initial start up, which created a small amount of smoke, it ran very cleanly. I haven't been around a kerosene heater in many years, but the ones I was always created a smell. With this one, if I closed my eyes I don't think I would've been able to tell the difference from a propane heater. It's also not terribly loud.

It was only in the upper 40's last night but it heated a reasonable area. I will probably need 1 or 2 more to heat a useful amount of work space. I'm also going to remove the lower heat shield, or maybe even flip it around to the top, so that the heat travels farther before floating up. I'm going to mount it onto a dolly and may also slightly raise the back so the output is angled down a little.

 

[Zymurgy]

I was curious about this same thing. The building I work in is a 50x120 uninsulated metal quonset that's about 25ft tall at the center...so there's a snowball's chance in hell of actually trying to heat it. So my only chance is to just try and warm the spot where I'm working. My research led me to think that radiant kerosene is going to be the most cost effective way to be able to get work done during the winter months.

I picked up one of these yesterday at Tractor Supply Co and tried it out last night for a little while. I was pretty impressed with it. After the initial start up, which created a small amount of smoke, it ran very cleanly. I haven't been around a kerosene heater in many years, but the ones I was always created a smell. With this one, if I closed my eyes I don't think I would've been able to tell the difference from a propane heater. It's also not terribly loud.

It was only in the upper 40's last night but it heated a reasonable area. I will probably need 1 or 2 more to heat a useful amount of work space. I'm also going to remove the lower heat shield, or maybe even flip it around to the top, so that the heat travels farther before floating up. I'm going to mount it onto a dolly and may also slightly raise the back so the output is angled down a little.

View attachment 417097

My cousin has had one for about 2 years now. He said it was expensive but very happy. He runs diesel through his. I have noticed I big difference when I walk into his shop. Definitely not the stink of his old diesel salamander.

 

[livininharrow]

burning diesel in a confined space is not a good idea.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

burning diesel in a confined space is not a good idea.

Not overly "confined" at 50' x 120' x 25' high. Lotta cubic feet there.

 

[mr. fix it]

Not overly "confined" at 50' x 120' x 25' high. Lotta cubic feet there.

Love the idea of this but...they consume air & produce emissions even if a small amount...
I would follow what the instructions say.
Be careful to ventilate accordingly. These were designed for open spaces on job sites.
Headaches and confusion are signs of CO poisoning. That stuff takes months to clear from your system

I went with electric for 2 years before installing a proper gas furnace. It cost me quite a bit to run but it was guaranteed safe to use in a closed garage.

Best of luck with heating

 

[WissaMan]

I'll only burn K-1 in these, but yes I understand it doesn't matter what the fuel is, flame will consume O and and combination of CO and CO2. I don't see a reason to burn diesel as the cost/gal isn't any better than kero, in fact it may be more.

This building is pretty "leaky" and it has two vents in the roof so I think I'll be okay, but I have a CO monitor sitting on my desk right now that's going to go in the building for safety.

 

[WissaMan]

I was also wondering about just donning a heated outfit like what they have here:

https://www.thewarmingstore.com/heated-workwear.html

 

[rd92west]

My shop is 24x32 with 13 ft ceiling.
6 inch fiberglass in walls and ceiling.
I run a heater similar to wisaman
Mine is a Val 6. I forget the model. Runs on diesel fuel which is in abundance on the farm and a 100% tax write off.
My roll up door is not insulated and not sealed up all that great. Also the walk in door has a air vent. This gives me some air moving thru.
This val 6 really puts out the heat. Has a high and low setting.
On a minus 25 degree F night the shop will be around zero in the morning.
I turn on the heater and 2 ceiling fans after breakfast. Go feed cattle. And in half a hour its 60 in the shop. I have the heater wired into a thermostat.
If I detect fumes I remove and clean the nozzle with oven cleaner. This sucker burns clean.
Only down fall is the cement is cold. And I guess I need to be aware of what's in front of the heater.
I considered floor heat which is sweet, decided against it because of the cost of heating water with electricity.
I do all the farm machinery repairs in a unheated steel quonset. Dirt floor. Builds character

 

[rapidtrans]

It would take a couple days to actually warm everything up. Like the floor, interior walls any furniture and equipment.
FWIW. I used to shut down the cottage furnace and turn it on for weekend trips in winter. It would take two days for the floor, furniture, interior walls to warm up. These things were like a cold-sink and just radiant cold back in the air making the furnace work a lot. A found leaving furnace on at a lower setting was much better for the structure. But I ran natural gas with no fear of running out if fuel. Just power. That’s another story.

 

[3175375]

I have a propane heater in the shop.
Insulated walls and ceiling.
100’ x 40’ x 14’
Concrete floors and uninsulated 14’ and 12’ doors.

I have a 1000 gallon tank.
Currently, the exhaust dumps into the shop (previous owners have done this) and there is no ductwork, it just dumps into the corner of the shop.

I set the thermostat to 55 degrees F.

I am looking for a contractor to plumb in exhaust and ductwork down the long side of the shop.

 

[mr. fix it]

I have a propane heater in the shop.
Insulated walls and ceiling.
100’ x 40’ x 14’
Concrete floors and uninsulated 14’ and 12’ doors.

I have a 1000 gallon tank.
Currently, the exhaust dumps into the shop (previous owners have done this) and there is no ductwork, it just dumps into the corner of the shop.

I set the thermostat to 55 degrees F.

I am looking for a contractor to plumb in exhaust and ductwork down the long side of the shop.

Have you ever thought about checking to see if the heater is not putting out any co2? We had one at work with a similar setup and after a few fellas complained about headaches
Turned out it wasn’t burning right
The owner had it fixed and added an exhaust system for the heater

 

[3175375]

Have you ever thought about checking to see if the heater is not putting out any co2? We had one at work with a similar setup and after a few fellas complained about headaches
Turned out it wasn’t burning right
The owner had it fixed and added an exhaust system for the heater

My cousin looked at it and it’s burning well.
The problem with him is he either is afraid to quote me the job to do the upgrades or he’s a doofus and doesn’t realize how simple this would be ( he runs a heating and air conditioning business and lives 2 miles from me) or both.
I also am considering a dehumidifier and / or air conditioning.

I will get someone else to do it.

 

[65sporty]

My buddy has a uninsulated shop and we run torpedo heaters pointed at the area your working. During the dead of winter it keeps your work area decent. I take all my own stuff to work during the winter

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Here's one to think about with new construction and a bit of forethought. Run flexible water line in the floor before you float your concrete slab and hook it up to an 80 gallon quick recovery electric water heater. I know a guy in Michigan that did this 20+ years ago to a 32'X40' Pole Barn addition (which got him 6" thick walls too) to one of his out building and his cost per month keeping that addition at 72* thru a 24 hour cycle for a month averages about $20 thru a typical Michigan winter according to him. Who'd ah thunk it? ... Addendum: If you have Natural Gas I would personally recommend a 10K-12K Generac Generator too and you can watch your neighbors unload their "Fridge" and head for the land fill and move into a Motel for the next few dayz and pray they don't have burst pipes when their electricity comes back on. Trust me on that one 'cuz that's what I did. Jer

 

['66 Fury I]

Diesel fuel (aka Furnace oil) contains more BTU's per gallon than kerosene, but may not burn as clean in some equipment. Incomplete (dirty) combustion produces carbon monoxide which is deadly. Carbon monoxide limits the blood's ability to carry oxygen and thus suffocates the body. The blood is "poisoned" until it is replaced by natural process or transfusion. If memory serves correctly, the natural process takes up to three months. The other concern of burning fuel in an unvented appliance is that complete combustion produces water vapor, harmless to humans, but can lead to rust/corrosion to our beloved Mopars as well as tools and equipment. Sorry to be so long-winded.

 

[bnz84]

Just some current sales on heaters at Tractor Supply

 

[Kippy]

Some of you guys have great work areas, im envious. Now dont laugh but my garage is about 11 by 27 with a vaulted ceiling and small loft area for storage... I need to open the garage door to pull a motor and I cant open the car doors wide but once the motor is in I can and have done just about everything else there is to do on that car....My tool chest doubles as a work bench and I managed to find a spot for a bench top drill press.....yes its very tight and frustrating as all hell
As far as heat, the garage has three insulated double pane windows, the garage door is insulated and two entrance doors are also insulated. The garage itself is very well insulated and has sheetrock on the walls.
I heat it with a ceiling hung 220 volt electric heater and it gets the job done. After what seems like a lifetime of not having a workable area, this place suites my needs and the best part is I own it free and clear

 

[Polara_500]

the best part is I own it free and clear

Bingo!!