live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Heating your workspace
- Thread starter patrick66
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livininharrow
Senior Member
since you have natural gas close by I would do 1 of 2 things. a radiant tube heater in the area you work in the most or a forced air gas ceiling hung furnace. or both. cheapest to operate. installation cost is another. if you bypassed your hydro meter and hydro is free go electric. lol
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I don't work in my garage at home in the winter, I go to work, all my tools are there anyway. A friend of mine has a 30 x 40 shop that is uninsulated and a little drafty and anytime we have to work there in the winter he has 2 kerosene torpedo heaters, warms it up nicely when there running, but gets cold fast when they shut off. They work good but are noisy.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
One of my friends had a outdoor boiler and he liked it, he sold it because they are gone for about 3 months in the winter and didn't want to deal with it. Another friend has a wood stove inside, I have cut a lot of wood with him, it may sound strange but I love cutting wood.
Reading through this closely...I need to deal with this sooner rather then later..
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Man! That's beer freezing cold!!!
Yeah man! Love my neighborhood!!! Don't be alarmed! LOL!
Noise from Aberdeen Proving Ground Anticipated This Week
ABERDEEN, MD — Citizens in and around Aberdeen Proving Ground may feel or hear vibrations due to testing this week.
The U.S. Army's Aberdeen Test Center has scheduled operations that officials say may be noticeable in the surrounding communities.
The tests are planned for daytime hours between Monday, Oct. 3, and Friday, Oct. 7.
"These operations will not be hazardous to residents of surrounding communities and are a necessary part of the Army's Testing mission," according to a statement from Aberdeen Proving Ground (APG).
APG officials will be taking noise readings throughout each day that the testing is taking place, and they will work to ensure there is minimal impact on neighbors.
Subscribe
Supporting military operations around the world, APG conducts weapons and equipment research with the assistance of military and civilian scientists, research engineers, technicians and administrators.
Anyone concerned about noise during the testing at Aberdeen Proving Ground may contact Heather Roelker at 410-278-1775.
Patch File Photo.
Noise from Aberdeen Proving Ground Anticipated This Week
ABERDEEN, MD — Citizens in and around Aberdeen Proving Ground may feel or hear vibrations due to testing this week.
The U.S. Army's Aberdeen Test Center has scheduled operations that officials say may be noticeable in the surrounding communities.
The tests are planned for daytime hours between Monday, Oct. 3, and Friday, Oct. 7.
"These operations will not be hazardous to residents of surrounding communities and are a necessary part of the Army's Testing mission," according to a statement from Aberdeen Proving Ground (APG).
APG officials will be taking noise readings throughout each day that the testing is taking place, and they will work to ensure there is minimal impact on neighbors.
Subscribe
Supporting military operations around the world, APG conducts weapons and equipment research with the assistance of military and civilian scientists, research engineers, technicians and administrators.
Anyone concerned about noise during the testing at Aberdeen Proving Ground may contact Heather Roelker at 410-278-1775.
Patch File Photo.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I have the same unit for my space. I was very fortunate to find a place with a gearhead that did all the setup work over the years!
Cost me nothing to keep it at 50'f and when I plan to do any work, i set it to 60'f about 20 minutes before going in.
Works a charm it does!
My shop is not where I live I love my perment installed propane heater like above. I keep it off completely until I walk in to work. Heats up quickly very efficient no fumes. I have my main work table right in front of the furnace along with my lift, so while it's heating up, I've got hot air blowing on me.
I went over there twice this week it never seems to drop below 35 F with the furnace off. It's been highs in the low 20s for a week. Even this week I'm taking my coat off in 5 minutes. My shop is 30 x 40 only a 10-foot ceiling. That lower ceiling really makes it easy to heat but had to get a low lift to fit.
I went over there twice this week it never seems to drop below 35 F with the furnace off. It's been highs in the low 20s for a week. Even this week I'm taking my coat off in 5 minutes. My shop is 30 x 40 only a 10-foot ceiling. That lower ceiling really makes it easy to heat but had to get a low lift to fit.
Me?
Mitsubishi ductless mini-split Heat + A/C unit. $5,000ish installed, garage is 3-bay (30x24) w/ 12’ ceilings. Fully insulated and drywalled, etc.
Energy efficient, clean, quiet and doesn’t require dealing with fuel or pellets. Climate controlled year-round up in NH.
Mitsubishi ductless mini-split Heat + A/C unit. $5,000ish installed, garage is 3-bay (30x24) w/ 12’ ceilings. Fully insulated and drywalled, etc.
Energy efficient, clean, quiet and doesn’t require dealing with fuel or pellets. Climate controlled year-round up in NH.
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The ponderosa we bought here in Wilmington, N.C. was set up with a heat pump system. I just insulated the metal roll upz and had the duct worked piped into the garage thru' the attic. Win Win summer AND this time of year too when youz guyz up north leave the dam door open and we find the BLUE LIP WEATHER haz reached us down here, Jer
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I rent a 3750 sq ft block building with 16’ ceiling(about 14’ to bottom of the trusses), it’s uninsulated and has 6 large old single pane windows in it. Thankfully the 12’ X 12’ Overhead door is insulated. It originally had 3 forced air furnaces hanging from the trusses and only one of them was operable when I moved in over 5 years ago. In the front there was about 16’ x 45’ of partitions(original offices) with 2 x 10 ceiling joists at 9’ tall and sheeted with plywood. This office space had its own residential style gas furnace which the building owner replaced for me that first winter as it was pretty well shot. The first winter month I figured I’d run that one remaining hanging gas furnace and keep it at 56 degrees just to keep the chill off in the big space and primarily used the residential unit for the front area where I put my woodshop and apartment as I was living there at the time. My first gas bill that winter was over 600 bucks!
Needless to say I shut down that furnace and never turned it back on. I laugh about it now because it whistled when it ran and I joked about that being the sound of money flying out of my wallet.
That first year I did the best I could sealing up big gaps around doors, windows and unused vents in the roof and come summer I replaced a couple of dozen broken or missing panes of glass and then just plain covered all those old commercial windows with visqueen which helped big time in both summer and winter. Those things poof inward like sails all winter long! I’ve since expanded the wood framed partitions with ceiling by another 1200 sq ft or so as working shop space and still rely only on that now 5 year old residential furnace to keep the working shop space at about 60 degrees when I’m not there and I crank it to a whopping 64 or 65 degrees when I’m there which is great for working. As far as the back garage area where the cars are it just gets the heat that escapes from the climate controlled space and at its coldest it doesn’t go below 35 degrees or so and when it’s above 20 degrees outside it stays in the 40s which to me is fine for the rare occasions that I work on the cars in the winter. Eventually I will hang a radiant tube unit in the garage and somehow improve the hvac in the shop space as it doesn’t look like I’ll be leaving this space anytime soon. I’ve been hesitant to sink thousands of dollars into a building I don’t own not knowing how long I was going to stay but I think it might be time.
Here’s the 50 year old gem.
And here’s the inside from a few years back.
Needless to say I shut down that furnace and never turned it back on. I laugh about it now because it whistled when it ran and I joked about that being the sound of money flying out of my wallet.That first year I did the best I could sealing up big gaps around doors, windows and unused vents in the roof and come summer I replaced a couple of dozen broken or missing panes of glass and then just plain covered all those old commercial windows with visqueen which helped big time in both summer and winter. Those things poof inward like sails all winter long! I’ve since expanded the wood framed partitions with ceiling by another 1200 sq ft or so as working shop space and still rely only on that now 5 year old residential furnace to keep the working shop space at about 60 degrees when I’m not there and I crank it to a whopping 64 or 65 degrees when I’m there which is great for working. As far as the back garage area where the cars are it just gets the heat that escapes from the climate controlled space and at its coldest it doesn’t go below 35 degrees or so and when it’s above 20 degrees outside it stays in the 40s which to me is fine for the rare occasions that I work on the cars in the winter. Eventually I will hang a radiant tube unit in the garage and somehow improve the hvac in the shop space as it doesn’t look like I’ll be leaving this space anytime soon. I’ve been hesitant to sink thousands of dollars into a building I don’t own not knowing how long I was going to stay but I think it might be time.
Here’s the 50 year old gem.
And here’s the inside from a few years back.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Matt,
That's a nice space and looks like a powermatic table saw.
That's a nice space and looks like a powermatic table saw.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It does not cycle on and off. I start and stop it on kerosene. I have about 6-8 feet of supply tubing coiled in the stack to preheat the oil then through a car type oil filter using a coolant filter housing from a Catapiller engine. Then into the pump and the discharge/pressure line gets routed through the firebox not directly exposed to the flame then down the combustion air tube to the nozzle which I increased from a .075 to a .100, mainly for BTUs and flow ease. The building is not really insulated and 30×40 with 15' ceiling it will still heat to around 55-60° on a 30-35° day add a torpedo heater for colder or if you want the last chill out of the air.
@BIGBARNEYCARS, your welcome. Feel free to send some 50s this way in January.
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65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
The shop at work we use a forced air waste oil furnace, 250,000 BTU works beautiful, keeps the shop as warn as we want it. When we rebuilt after the fire it was insulated very good.
The old shop was cinder block, no insulation, the windows were changed but not a whole lot of difference, it was a lot like Matt's shop. After a roof was put on with insulation it helped some but then it burned. New shop is much better.
The old shop was cinder block, no insulation, the windows were changed but not a whole lot of difference, it was a lot like Matt's shop. After a roof was put on with insulation it helped some but then it burned. New shop is much better.
patrick66
Old Man with a Hat
Great ideas and pictures! I think what I'm gonna try first (because it is the least expensive for me right now) is the patio heater option (propane powered). I can get one from the big box store for $119.00 USD each, plus the cost to fill a bottle of propane. Later on, I believe the NG heater, suspended from the ceiling, will be the best approach to heating.
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i have installed a few of those, I am surprised it keeps up with your winters?
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