Higher output alternator

[Knebel]

So, with my electric fan on i constantly saw 11.9volts, even when driving. I just bit the bullet and shelled out the money for a powermaster alternator. The spec sheet says "57amp idle" "92amp cruise". Bolted the thing in and wow. I get a 13.9volt when just idling and when I turn on everything on the car it goes to 14.4 volts. Im happy with that, hopefully that charges my battery better so that its not draining all the time...

 

[65sporty]

Did you bypass the ammeter?

 

[Knebel]

I have put a second wire directly from the alternator output to the battery. Its more of a short mock up at the moment still have to replace that with a thicker wire and fuse. I might be doing that tomorrow.

 

[vada]

I know I am YEARS behind in this post but I too am looking to upgrade my alternator to a 60amp on my 69 300. I read your thread just now and judging from your last post in the thread your 60amp is working good. I want to ask is it still working? What kind of alternator did you get?

 

[Big_John]

I know I am YEARS behind in this post but I too am looking to upgrade my alternator to a 60amp on my 69 300. I read your thread just now and judging from your last post in the thread your 60amp is working good. I want to ask is it still working? What kind of alternator did you get?

The question I always ask is "do you really need to do this?"

Do you have extra current draws like a stereo amp or electric fans? If you don't have things like that, there's no reason to need a higher output alternator.

 

[vada]

Yes added a stereo system. I have two amps mounted in the trunk. I was told to get the 110 mopar alternator but I don’t think I need that much I really don’t wanna have to change out all the wiring and everything I feel like a 60amp is sufficient and i can still keep the regulator installed with it

 

[Gerald Morris]

Fantastic, are all 60amp higher idle output? Do I need to worry about frying the ammeter with a 60? Oh and are Powermasters any good/worth the cash?

I like my Powermaster 7018 well enough and consider it a fair buy. Mind you, I'm running a single field wire to it, so it still doesn't kick out the 95 amp current until the motor revs over ~750 rpm. You might bump your idle up a little to keep all your load WELL charged, even should you resort to the dual field wire electronic regulator. (Note: I use an electronic regulator in place of the old thermo-electric regulator, from Mr. FuryGT. He sells a good product. I'm considering whether or not to go to a dual field setup for the same issue plaguing you.)

I disconnected my ammeter the first day I cranked the car over. Use a voltmeter. I run a bit of #8 from the starter relay to BOTH leads lugged to the ammeter, disconnecting the OLD alternator connection, but leaving the dash circuits otherwise alone. This eliminates the ammeter, puts the two feed circuits in parallel instead of series and makes it easier to protect all circuits with the fusible link I run from battery post to starter relay lug, before running the #8 through a grommet-ed hole in the firewall. I disconnect the old #16 fusible link at the bulkhead connector too. This makes a clean. SAFE way to upgrade.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Just a little update. With my additional wire connected, I seem to be charging fine, I might upgrade to a higher output alt at a later time because when the fan kicks on, it has a hard time charging. Idk, I have a small low pressure pump, under 5amps, efi pump maybe 10amps and efi system under 10amps. The fan has a 30amp fuse, it might draw 25 or so.

So I am at at least 50amps at idle with my 60amp alternator.... now count ignition, lights and whatnot and the alterntor cant keep up. I think putting in a 140amp with a big effing wire to the battery would do a world of good

Tuff Stuff makes a 130 A alt. You SHOULD get something bigger than that 60, for sure. Score the PowerMaster 7018/19 for a 95 A alternator. That SHOULD do you good, though I admit, planning for MORE agrees with my way of thinking too. Be SURE to use GENEROUS WIRE SIZES FOR WHATEVER AMPACITY YOU CHOOSE!

 

[Knebel]

Haha...BUT i did Have a powermaster and that died. I now have upgraded to a 1 wire tuff stuff. I believe it was 110amp or something. I also upgraded the entire wiring system with 0000 to the starter, 1AWG to alternator and so on. Switched 12v through an 200 amp relay triggered by switched 12v from the key to trigger all accessories. The wire to the distribution point behind the dash is an 8ga coming from the "hot" side of said relay and is fused inbetween all that a crash switch that shuts off the entire car. ANYWAY Too much to explain...

 

[cbarge]

Fantastic, are all 60amp higher idle output? Do I need to worry about frying the ammeter with a 60? Oh and are Powermasters any good/worth the cash?

90 amp roundback Powermaster here and did the underhood ammeter bypass with 10 guage wiring and 14 guage fusible link.
Looks stock but can handle a big load.
The alternator is dual field so I grounded the extra to the casing itself. ( purple wire showing)
Been in service since 2018 no issues.

11.8 at idle I would not worry about it.
Your electronic voltage regulator will increase charging once the engine RPM increases.

Any add on aftermarket schtuff should be powered by relays anyways.
Do you drive 55 at idle? Didn't think so..

 

[Gerald Morris]

Haha...BUT i did Have a powermaster and that died. I now have upgraded to a 1 wire tuff stuff. I believe it was 110amp or something. I also upgraded the entire wiring system with 0000 to the starter, 1AWG to alternator and so on. Switched 12v through an 200 amp relay triggered by switched 12v from the key to trigger all accessories. The wire to the distribution point behind the dash is an 8ga coming from the "hot" side of said relay and is fused inbetween all that a crash switch that shuts off the entire car. ANYWAY Too much to explain...

The 1 wire with the good heavy conductors should do you right! Appears you've taken an approach very similar to my own. I used an additional relay on my Dodge D150 in a similar fashion to what you've done. I might rebuild a Mopar squareback with a 100A field diodes and GOOD QUALITY BEARING when I get the leisure to do so. I have half a dozen alternators in my storage now, 2 of which are serviceable, so I'm not hurting.

Good quality adjustable regulators will be my next concern. I see one really reputable maker in business, and other dubious ones....