Hmmmm, I thought this was about an engine rebuild and suggestions??
Does not sound like you want big HP, but just a tad bit more. I am not qualified on the Mopar engines per say, but what most suggest is to keep your compression down to around 9-to-1 if using pump gas and what many running Pontiac engines for pump gas do. You can go slightly higher as long as you have access to 93 octane or possibly add an octane booster. I would not go more than 9.5. Recently this was suggested to me by a well known Pontiac engine building shop for our older cars without the hardened exhaust seats:
Defender + Booster Fuel Additive
I would go with a 750CFM carb with vacuum secondaries. Don't worry about size of the CFM's as this is the purpose of vacuum secondaries - they only open, and as much, as the engine needs so its hard to oversize when using vacuum secondaries. That 440 needs to breathe. A smaller carb may be more responsive and work to a point, but will limit RPM's and the engines full potential as it'll choke the engine off.
A dual plane intake like factory is best for the street - it keeps up air/fuel velocity and is more responsive than the single plane intake. Stock or aftermarket is fine. Just read the recommendations by the manufacturer as some are intended for higher RPM use. I would block off the heat crossover if the car will mostly see summer/warmer weather driving. This will keep heat off the carb and help with the ethanol gas problems. You may not have enough heat to work the factory choke, so a conversion to an electric/manual choke would be needed. I would also add a phenolic spacer or insulated gasket under the carb to additionally help with heat soak.
I have seen where some of these engines in the forum have a factory insulation fitted under the intake on top of the valley pan. I suspect the purpose is to keep heat off the bottom of the intake. They make an insulated muffler wrap that I think could be cut and fitted to do the same thing and keep heat off the under side of the manifold.
It seems hood clearance may be an issue, but you can get air cleaners that drop down at the base to get the needed clearance. An open element air cleaner works best and can add HP. The factory air cleaner is too restrictive for HP. If you gotta use it, flip the lid for driving then flip it back for show.
Do a basic 3-angle valve job with good stainless steel valves. I like the Ferrea line of valves, but there are others. I also like bronze valve guides over steel or knurling and like Viton valve seals for better oil control which may require machining of the valve guide tops. Stock valve seals are fine as well if on a budget. If you can, gasket match the intake ports and clean up/smooth out any rough casting areas. No need to go crazy and make 'em smooth as you actually want a rough surface to promote turbulence - so just a clean up in the ports. Your shop should machine the heads to make sure they are flat on the combustion surfaces.
I would email Hughes Engines for a camshaft choice. They seem to have a good handle on cylinder pressure and what cams are best based on compression ratio and power output.
Hughes Engines They may also be a good source for your pistons so you can match them to your heads to achieve a good street compression ratio.
I always replace my connecting rods with aftermarket steel rods. By the time you rebuild them and add ARP bolts, the ready to run NEW rods are a better alternative and stronger. It is also added insurance against a rod failure if this should ever happen - and you won't have to worry about twisting the engine to higher RPM's with a good set of steel rods.
Setting up the distributor, whatever you use, is often over looked and can make a big difference in power. Getting the initial timing right and getting the mechanical advance curve will do wonders. This may take a little hands-on test-and-tune by you to reach the best timing for your engine.
Exhaust flow is very important. Why have all that power being made by a good carb/intake/cam if the exhaust gasses are bottled up and can't escape fast enough? So some kind of HP manifolds or headers should be used. I like a 2.5" set of pipes with low restriction mufflers. Personally, I like 3" pipes if I can fit them, but clearances can be an issue.
You will want everything balanced.
Add a shift improver kit to the trans for sharper shifts.
You don't have to go crazy on the rebuild to get good street performance & driveability.
