How much resistance on front disc brakes

Ok I need a little help here. I've unbolted the old MC from the car and am trying to pull it free but it seems stuck on the plunger/push rod. Before I go yanking the hell outta this thing is it threaded or is there something else I need to unbolt? I thought it would just pull right off.

IMG_6846.JPG
 
I have always unbolted it from the pedal first. Some will say you can use the pedal to pull the rod from the plunger.

The rod has a rubber ring on it that holds it into the plunger/piston, I have always just taken a cutoff wheel and split the piston to remove the rod.


Alan
 
There is a rubber ring on the end of the push rod that keeps it from falling out easily when your driving. It will pull off but as you can see it will not just come off easily. You can unbolt the push rod from the brake pedal and do this on the bench or in a vice might be easier for you. Also some brake clean down in the hole will help it slide out easier without oiling or destroying the rubber.
 
jstaples2 said:
Ok I need a little help here. I've unbolted the old MC from the car and am trying to pull it free but it seems stuck on the plunger/push rod. Before I go yanking the hell outta this thing is it threaded or is there something else I need to unbolt? I thought it would just pull right off.

View attachment 78480
Click to expand...
Since you have manual brakes REUSE the small rubber bushing that's in the old MC plunger hole - YOU NEED IT! Those studs look pretty rusty, I'd run a die on the threads to clean them up and new nuts too.
 
+1 for it should pull off. its not threaded into there. the rod may have threads on it but for a little acorn nut thing on the end. maybe. but the rod does not screw into the MC.

id pull more.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Thanks everyone, I was able to get the old MC off and now it looks like I've got a different issue. The plunger hole in the new MC is shorter by about 1/2 inch. That's not going to get me full range of motion on the pedal. Did I get the wrong MC - More Information for A-1 CARDONE 101327 ?

Do I need a spacer or different plunger?

Disc/Drum - manual brakes
 
Take the M/C back where you bought it and show the counter guy what you're talking about. You might think about spending the few extra bucks and going new rather then re-man. Cordone waz in New Jersey hiring $8 an hour drop outs 'til ah couple yearz ago. Then they moved the operation to Mexico to cut the cost of labor by what? 'bout 2/3rdz and of course they passed that savingz on to their customerz rite?
 
I don't like it. I want to say that the non power MC and power assist MC are different.

and I think you said this is a non power system.

I wonder if you have a power MC and there is another p/n# for non power disc MC ?

if it was a smidge different Id say go with it that's what the rod adjusto niblet on the end of the pushrod is for.

but 1/2" is a lot. you cant adjust that out of the adjusto.

there exists adjustable pushrods. and there also exists several pushrods from ma mopar, depending on disc, drum, manual, power assist, etc., etc.
 
Correct, it's a non-power system. There's not a ton of info/specs on the different MC's that I can find. It's either a drum setup or disc/drum setup not much info about if it's intended for a power or non-power system. Ugh.

And it sounds like I can't really move to a power system without tracking down the whole pedal assembly.
 
Thank you saylor -
Here's the relevant part of that discussion

The correct master cylinder for you application is Chrysler part number 2808600 with casting number 2225541 which had a 1 inch bore and covered both manual and power disc brakes.

Rebuilders separated the master cylinder into power and manual disc brakes

Manual disc brake compatable cylinders are

101326 M Cardone
MC 36221 Raybestos
18M1019 AC Delco
UP 36221 Napa
SS4736221 Napa

Power Disc Master Cylinder

101326 Cardone

Hope this helps you out
Click to expand...

So... I see PN# MC36221 (raybestos) from RockAuto as a fit for the fury, but no other details on the usage. It sounds like the guy in the other thread got one of these to work. Guess I'll give that a shot.
 
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I would ( you may not be comfortable with this) if they are the same bore dia., should be, pull the snap ring on both and switch the rear piston from your original with the deeper hole you can move the new seal over from reman to yours after a test fit. The innards are the same drum/drum or disc/drum just the residual pressure valves and resevoir sizes. When you take it apart hold the piston down in and let it come out slowly, spring pressure, to keep the pieces in order, these are not complicated remember Jer's comment about $8/hr = not rocket science.
 
Ok, so MC36221 came in today and after opening it up it looks suspiciously similar to what I already had. I suspect the residual pressure valve is in this one too. There's no information on the web regarding the application here. I've emailed raybestos to get some help...

Here is the original sitting next to the Raybestos MC36221. They look almost identical
IMG_6868.JPG
IMG_6869.JPG


in the meantime it sounds like maybe I'll need to swap out the rear piston on the original one? Any chance you can clarify the steps a bit further 70bigblockdodge?

I get how to unbolt the retaining fitting around the plunger hole on the original. Any tips on how to break down the new one? Am I simply re-using the old MC and taking out the residual pressure valve? Or am I using the new MC and swapping out the plunger hole/seals?
IMG_6870.JPG
 
jstaples2 said:
Ok, so MC36221 came in today and after opening it up it looks suspiciously similar to what I already had. I suspect the residual pressure valve is in this one too. There's no information on the web regarding the application here. I've emailed raybestos to get some help...

Here is the original sitting next to the Raybestos MC36221. They look almost identical
View attachment 78878 View attachment 78879

in the meantime it sounds like maybe I'll need to swap out the rear piston on the original one? Any chance you can clarify the steps a bit further 70bigblockdodge?

I get how to unbolt the retaining fitting around the plunger hole on the original. Any tips on how to break down the new one? Am I simply re-using the old MC and taking out the residual pressure valve? Or am I using the new MC and swapping out the plunger hole/seals?
View attachment 78887
Click to expand...
Maybe it is just me, I'm lost.

The two masters in the first picture are the same and for ALL DRUM brakes, the one in the last picture appears to be a disc master but can't tell from that picture.


Alan
 
MrMoparCHP said:
Maybe it is just me, I'm lost.

The two masters in the first picture are the same and for ALL DRUM brakes, the one in the last picture appears to be a disc master but can't tell from that picture.


Alan
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking as well... Both are drum/drum. I read on a different forum that someone was using Raybestos MC36221 in a disc/drum manual setup. Since there's no information on the part available from the manufacturer I thought I'd give it a try to see if it could work. However it looks nothing like the picture from the websites and looks exactly like my current drum/drum MC.

Bottom line is I'm looking for a manual brake disc/drum MC - Everything I've found for disc/drum is for a powered system and has a different (shallower) pushrod depth. Here's a Cardone MC that I bought that I thought would work, but it's got a step in the plunger hole and won't let the pushrod fully seat. It causes the brake pedal to sit up way too high and would bottoms out on the MC before the pedal hits 1/2 way to the floor.
new mc.jpg
 
I'm in the middle of upgrading my system to a dual master setup, got the parts in and now just need time to install everything. After discussing the setup, Dr Diff and I came to the conclusion that with the weight of my car and it being non power I should use the A body (15/16" master) to give adequate braking. This is the unit I bought, Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit , coupled with a proportioning valve and so on since mine is still using the original single pot master. I know, everyone now says switching the master with the disc install is mandatory, but when I converted mine 30 years ago there was nobody to tell me better - and so far I've really had zero problems with the system after well over 50k miles. Now that there's some real engineering testing behind this swap, and since my master finally started seeping, I'm moving closer to a system everyone else likes.

From the sound of your issues, one of these masters may just be what you need, and you can be sure Cass (Dr Diff) knows exactly what he's sending you.
 
Thank you Porlara, I am going to disassemble the Cardone Disc/Drum MC and see if I can swap out the rear piston with my original and see how that works. If all else fails all this gets returned and I'll call DrDiff.

On a side note, I emailed Raybestos last night and got a reply this morning... Classic.

Question: Can you help me determine if MC36221 is for Disc/Drum or Drum/Drum use? I can't find any information regarding it's setup.

Answer: I could not find out what this fits in regard to drum/drum or disc/ drum. Thanks

Seriously?
 
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