i should not have installed these two gauges

[jct]

cause i don't like what i'm seeing, should have stayed with my idiot lights
'68 383, 2.76:1
this is what it shows at highway speed around 65-70mph

at curb idle

not sure which one to tackle first, i'm thinking figuring out the oil pressure issue

so far for cooling system replaced the radiator cap, thermostat with a Robert shaw high flow, and fan clutch. replaced the original nylon timing chain was all still intact

 

[68 4spd Fury]

Water temp not too bad, depends on what thermostat you have. Oil pressure is an issue, assuming gage is accurate.

 

[jct]

using the sensors that autometer gave me thermostat is rated at 180 degrees

oil sensor i had to use a few extensions to make it fit in the back of the block

 

[Davea Lux]

Something like 10psi at idle would be normal at operating temp. It should be running 35-40psi at highway speed. Some questions: 1.) What viscosity of oil are you running? 2.) How many miles since last changed? 3.) What type of oil filter? 4.) How many miles on the engine? 5.) Any knocking or other abnormal noise on cold start?

Sometimes a bad ground strap to the engine block can effect the accuracy of electric sensors. Try hooking a jumper cable to the negative battery cable and the engine block to see if your readings change.

Dave

 

[66Newyorker]

There are a couple of things you could do for the oil pressure. Adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator-440 Source
You could install this it will allow you to adjust your oil pressure, I installed one on my car works as described,find a high pressure spring or maybe install washers behind the plug where the spring is installed in the pump. As far as the temperature your radiator my be clogged.

 

[jct]

Some questions: 1.) What viscosity of oil are you running? 2.) How many miles since last changed? 3.) What type of oil filter? 4.) Did you tape into the oil galley at the location of the idiot light sensor? 5.) Which engine is this?

Dave

(1)Pennzoil 10w30 (2) not sure on how many miles since last change i did change it this year after i got my top end of my engine put back together which was some time back in july... (3) wix 51515 or napa gold (4) i left my idiot light sensor intact and plugged in the other side from that oem sensor (5) engine size is in the first post (383)

 

[Big_John]

Before you get too excited about the oil pressure, it would be worth checking with another gauge and/or sender. You could buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge to do this.

 

[Davea Lux]

(1)Pennzoil 10w30 (2) not sure on how many miles since last change i did change it this year after i got my top end of my engine put back together which was some time back in july... (3) wix 51515 or napa gold (4) i left my idiot light sensor intact and plugged in the other side from that oem sensor (5) engine size is in the first post (383)

Try hooking a jumper cable from the block to the negative battery cable. A bad ground strap to the engine can cause inaccurate sensor readings. I would also try removing the idiot light sensor and placing the oil pressure sensor in that location to see if it makes a difference. John makes a good point verify the pressure reading with another gauge.

Dave

 

[mr. fix it]

cause i don't like what i'm seeing, should have stayed with my idiot lights
'68 383, 2.76:1
this is what it shows at highway speed around 65-70mph
View attachment 219350
at curb idle
View attachment 219352

not sure which one to tackle first, i'm thinking figuring out the oil pressure issue

so far for cooling system replaced the radiator cap, thermostat with a Robert shaw high flow, and fan clutch. replaced the original nylon timing chain was all still intact

I personally have had temp gauge concerns most of the summer but discovered that my gauge was off and climbs quickly when in stop and go traffic.

I found the temp sender itself is no good and the engine is sitting at 181~183 degrees when the gauge wants me to think it was running warmer than normal.

The oil pressure? there are some issues.
Try a heavier weight oil if you have a 5w30 or 10w30.
If a 20w50 fixes the issue then you likely have a slightly loose engine in the bearings or camshaft bearings.

 

[jct]

Try hooking a jumper cable from the block to the negative battery cable. A bad ground strap to the engine can cause inaccurate sensor readings. I would also try removing the idiot light sensor and placing the oil pressure sensor in that location to see if it makes a difference. John makes a good point verify the pressure reading with another gauge.

Dave

it's not the engine ground straps as both of those has been replaced. ugh not a fan of working in tight spots of the engine with just a wrench >_<

will take me a lil while to get around to these tests just hope to get to it before winter gets here (december 21st)

 

[Davea Lux]

it's not the engine ground straps as both of those has been replaced. ugh not a fan of working in tight spots of the engine with just a wrench >_<

will take me a lil while to get around to these tests just hope to get to it before winter gets here (december 21st)

You also might want to check your timing as that could be causing your engine to run on the hot side.

Dave

 

[jct]

Going to be setting the timing via a vacuum gauge

 

[FURYGT]

using the sensors that autometer gave me thermostat is rated at 180 degrees

oil sensor i had to use a few extensions to make it fit in the back of the block

I have to wonder how accurate of a reading you are getting on the oil pressure since you had to use extensions, especially if it is an electric oil pressure gauge using a sending unit vs. a mechanical oil pressure gauge that has a line running to the gauge.

 

[jct]

I'll get pictures of my setup soon as i can...

 

[twostick]

Any chance you hooked the temp wire to the oil pressure gauge and vice versa?

Kevin

 

[jct]

I color coded the two wires blue for water green for oil...

 

[jct]

About a 1.5" extension, 90° elbow couple of size adapters

 

[mr. fix it]

I have to wonder how accurate of a reading you are getting on the oil pressure since you had to use extensions, especially if it is an electric oil pressure gauge using a sending unit vs. a mechanical oil pressure gauge that has a line running to the gauge.

I use both and as long as there is fluid, there should be pressure unless there is a major kink in the oil plastic tube typically used in these applications.
The way to check that would be to start the engine then let it run until max pressure is reached.
Sht the engine off and watch to see if it takes time for the dial indicator to return to zero.
If it drops quickly then chances are there is no kink.
If it returns slowly then it could be kinked.
The main concern is to insulate the plastic tube or it could rub a hole in it and then the engine bay/firewall will get an auto under oiling for the cost of an engine or many hours of cursing having to clean the mess up.

 

[Davea Lux]

I use both and as long as there is fluid, there should be pressure unless there is a major kink in the oil plastic tube typically used in these applications.
The way to check that would be to start the engine then let it run until max pressure is reached.
Sht the engine off and watch to see if it takes time for the dial indicator to return to zero.
If it drops quickly then chances are there is no kink.
If it returns slowly then it could be kinked.
The main concern is to insulate the plastic tube or it could rub a hole in it and then the engine bay/firewall will get an auto under oiling for the cost of an engine or many hours of cursing having to clean the mess up.

Can also replace the cheap plastic tubing with copper.

Dave

 

[jct]

electric gauges not running analog gauges, will get a analog test gauge soon