I agree with you. But, if you're going to correct someone, don't use incorrect words by so doing. "Put's." ???? No such word.
Junkyard 383
- Thread starter 67fury3kidd
- Start date
traintech55
Senior Member
I really hope you are not referring to me?
I don't think he was; the comment just appeared after yours.
stubs300
Senior Member
Well my spell checker excepts it either way, so excuse me for living! What do you want, a medal or a monument?
Wow! You picked on a guy - correctly too - for using bad grammar. I merely pointed out that you did too. It was a "Pot calling the kettle black" thing. Do I want a medal? No, but I was hoping you'd get my point. I see I failed.
67fury3kidd
New Member
Well I messed with the timing some more and got the rpm idle down to about 750, and is getting 20" of vaccume now and I think my car stalling is it vaporlocking, because when I pulled the plugs the other day they diddnt show signs of the engine running lean or rich and if I drive it around in the hot Tucson sun for even just 30 min the engine temp goes up to 200 and you can kinda hear the fuel boil in the lines. I thought the aluminum intake would help keep it cooler but it diddnt so I bought a 1" fabric spacer and that did nothing so now I'm thinking about trying a electric fuel pump but I dont know what one will work, I though about a Holley blue pump but they have to be gravity fed from what I've read
67fury3kidd
New Member
Also I saw a Carter super pump, just wondering if that is just a fancy stock pump or is it actually better then one you get from merals or checker?
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
You changed the timing to lower your RPM?
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Also, an electric fuel pump isn't going to solve your problem. Route the fuel line away from heat sources. It seems that you need to fix your cooling problem as well. Do you have a fan shroud? Has your radiator been recored or replaced?
67fury3kidd
New Member
I messed up I mentioned to add that 200 is the highest its run so far and that's only in 110* summer days usually is runs about 180 and i have a electric fan with a 3 channel aluminum radiator and fan shroud with a 160* theromstat
67fury3kidd
New Member
What about a demon 1901 I read the hotrod article about it being a great street carb and I haven't heard a singgle bad review about it except one was a quality control issue
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Sounds like a decent choice. I believe you can buy them rebuilt on eBay for much less than new.
I think you should stay with a 4 bbl carb if you want fuel economy unless you love the sound of the secondaries opened 
The problem here seems to be related to timing and carburetor problems, unless you have a really good experience with thermoquads you should remove it and replace it with less complex carburetor like a Carter AFB or AVS, or even a street demon which combines the best of Thermoquad and AFB. Thermoquads are really really good carburetors, I've seen a couple of them installed on 440's doing 16+ mpg on highway but they requires a lot of patience and experience to get them properly tuned. Go ahead and fix your timing issue, if your car has the stock camshaft try between 12 - 15º BTDC initial advance, be sure vacuum advance is working and found a less complex 4 bbl carb to start dealing with it.
2 bbls carburetors are very reliable, simple and in some cases better for kick off torque but I think they hardly will be more fuel economic than a 4 bbl due to with a 2bbl carburetor you have let's say 400 - 550 CFM going through primaries all the time but with a 650 CFM 4 bbl carb you will have between 250 - 300 CFM going through primaries and less air equals to less fuel needed but once you open the secondaries say good bye to your fuel economy
HEI ignition systems are great if you have the properly wiring harness for them, If you still have the original mopar alternator I would say stay away from them, they start giving some serious problems under 11V and even with a better alternator I would recommend to have a relay wiring connecting the HEI module directly to alternator output and obviously a HEI system will like a better coil.
The problem here seems to be related to timing and carburetor problems, unless you have a really good experience with thermoquads you should remove it and replace it with less complex carburetor like a Carter AFB or AVS, or even a street demon which combines the best of Thermoquad and AFB. Thermoquads are really really good carburetors, I've seen a couple of them installed on 440's doing 16+ mpg on highway but they requires a lot of patience and experience to get them properly tuned. Go ahead and fix your timing issue, if your car has the stock camshaft try between 12 - 15º BTDC initial advance, be sure vacuum advance is working and found a less complex 4 bbl carb to start dealing with it.
2 bbls carburetors are very reliable, simple and in some cases better for kick off torque but I think they hardly will be more fuel economic than a 4 bbl due to with a 2bbl carburetor you have let's say 400 - 550 CFM going through primaries all the time but with a 650 CFM 4 bbl carb you will have between 250 - 300 CFM going through primaries and less air equals to less fuel needed but once you open the secondaries say good bye to your fuel economy
HEI ignition systems are great if you have the properly wiring harness for them, If you still have the original mopar alternator I would say stay away from them, they start giving some serious problems under 11V and even with a better alternator I would recommend to have a relay wiring connecting the HEI module directly to alternator output and obviously a HEI system will like a better coil.
I agree with the Low Standard, education has become. I have made Grammar errors but I see all these "Professional" News outlets using the Words "Diss" & "Throwing Shade" When in the hell did those Become Acceptable Words in the English language? That talk belongs on The streets/Ghetto and not in The Schools. The Reserve for Intelligence is not high enough in Todays Society.
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70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Wow. I be diggin ur dope Furie.
saylor
Senior Member
a thought about electric fuel pumps and if they help with vapor lock or not:
the mechanical pump driven off the cam pulls fuel via negative pressure (suction).
the electric pump pushes fuel. here is the difference.
generally speaking liquid under positive pressure has a higher boiling point - it wont turn to vapor so easy.
with the negative pressure it has a better chance to vaporize in the line.
once that vapor builds the mechanical pump cannot beat it.
i for one love my elec pump and am very happy i changed from the mechanical.
not to argue with young horvath my friend over there, but i am of the opinion that a pusher pump DOES help vapor lock.
somewhere on this site is the detail of the work. remove stock FP, put a blockoff plate, etc. what kind of relay you need. mg gasket cheapo fuel pump from oreallys... the whole writeup.
and 800cfm carb is too much for your motor.
try not to die -
- saylor
the mechanical pump driven off the cam pulls fuel via negative pressure (suction).
the electric pump pushes fuel. here is the difference.
generally speaking liquid under positive pressure has a higher boiling point - it wont turn to vapor so easy.
with the negative pressure it has a better chance to vaporize in the line.
once that vapor builds the mechanical pump cannot beat it.
i for one love my elec pump and am very happy i changed from the mechanical.
not to argue with young horvath my friend over there, but i am of the opinion that a pusher pump DOES help vapor lock.
somewhere on this site is the detail of the work. remove stock FP, put a blockoff plate, etc. what kind of relay you need. mg gasket cheapo fuel pump from oreallys... the whole writeup.
and 800cfm carb is too much for your motor.
try not to die -
- saylor
saylor
Senior Member
o - there is debate about leaving your mechanical pump in place or not. it is mostly not harmful to leave in place.
however, there is increased risk by doing so, IMO.
1.) dont feed the carb more than about 5psi (may need a regulator)
2.) if you blow out the mechanical pump, you are putting fuel in the block
3.) why did you even need an electric pump if you are keeping the mechanical? are you trying to bandaid a larger issue?
again - try not to die -
- saylor
however, there is increased risk by doing so, IMO.
1.) dont feed the carb more than about 5psi (may need a regulator)
2.) if you blow out the mechanical pump, you are putting fuel in the block
3.) why did you even need an electric pump if you are keeping the mechanical? are you trying to bandaid a larger issue?
again - try not to die -
- saylor
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
What about in this form; "It put's the lotion on it's skin"?
Also what's with all the fist shaking at young kids around here? I've read plenty of craigslist ads written by boomers that look like they have a grudge against the English language.
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The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
That's still incorrect.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Heh, yeah I know, I just thought it would be funnyThat's still incorrect.
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