Keep it simple, not stupid.

[Big_John]

If wires are that oxidized then I would be looking at replacement. Yes unshielded crimp connectors and heat shrink are fine also. 25 years ago the FAA was still requiring learning of tying and lacing wire looms so their thinking is not always 100% logical.

It really doesn't take much oxidation to make the wires harder to solder... But yes, if they are really bad, it's time to replace. The copper gets harder with age too and less flexible.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I usually scratch them pretty good with a razor then dip them in paste flux for pipes. By the time that burns off and wire gets hot enough for solder to melt it with usually take solder. Then do it again next spring after the relentless barrage of salt spray coming off the drives all winter. That's if the insulation isn't compromised and the innereds are just green mush.

 

[3C's & a D?]

You replaced the 383 with a 440. Was your car an "L" or an "N" in the VIN, 5th digit?

I'm not much of a codes guy, I did notice it has factory (or so appearing) dual exhaust hangers above the axle.

 

[3C's & a D?]

In your pic there appears to be a third wire connected to the other side of the coil. (?)[/QUOTE]

Yep, 70bigblockdodge got it, it's for the tach.

When I first saw this I thought it was grounded to the valve cover. But I see it isn't now that I blowed it up.

I was wondering what you saw. Nice pic, I went to the not so metal but but fairly heavy Tool show last night.

If you look at the top two pics, only one half of the ballast resistor is connected.

That was taken while contemplating going back, which has been decided upon. Had trouble finding the right distributor, 50$ core! And I don't have one. Coming from autoline in Winnipeg
I thank everyone for their help and I hate to add this now but I just remembered it when I saw it. When it first started acting up a few years ago I found the fusible link faulty? For some reason. And replaced it with 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp. fuse. This is absolutely the last thing that I can think of. Could that contribute?

 

[Dobalovr]

View attachment 128472

I'm not much of a codes guy, I did notice it has factory (or so appearing) dual exhaust hangers above the axle.

Here you go G!
CE23:
Chrysler
Economy
2 Door Hardtop

N0C: 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1970
Jefferson Avenue, MI, USA

: Sequence number

E63: 383 cid 4 barrel V8 H.P. 335hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
FW1: White Exterior Color
E6X9: Trim - Unknown, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Black
TX9: Black Int. Door Frames
923: Build Date: September 23
: Order number

V3W: White Convertible Top
R22: AM Radio with 8 Track (10 Watts)
R31: Rear Seat Speaker(s)

L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
C21: Center Front Seat Cushion
P31: Power Windows


B51: Power Brakes
50: Unknown

 

[3C's & a D?]

Thanks Graham, I didn't realize the top was white too, it came with a new black top uninstalled. I think that's a better choice. It will be white again, not that soon though. Best of luck with the carb. issue I can't really add anything that hasn't been said.

 

[Snotty]

N0C: 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1970
Jefferson Avenue, MI, USA

There you go, and that's what I was wondering about. You pulled an HP 383 from your '70 Newport to put a (everybody has one) 440 in it. The majority of Newports in '70 were "L" cars, 383 2 bbl. There were some that left the factory with a "T" or a "U" - standard 440 and 440 HP, or "TNT" in Chrysler speak. The rarest were the "N" cars, 383 HPs. You have one. I was really hoping it was an L.

Do you still have the 383?

 

[polara71]

There you go, and that's what I was wondering about. You pulled an HP 383 from your '70 Newport to put a (everybody has one) 440 in it. The majority of Newports in '70 were "L" cars, 383 2 bbl. There were some that left the factory with a "T" or a "U" - standard 440 and 440 HP, or "TNT" in Chrysler speak. The rarest were the "N" cars, 383 HPs. You have one. I was really hoping it was an L.

Do you still have the 383?

Most dont realize how few 383-4 C's were built . So, so few

 

[3C's & a D?]

There you go, and that's what I was wondering about. You pulled an HP 383 from your '70 Newport to put a (everybody has one) 440 in it. The majority of Newports in '70 were "L" cars, 383 2 bbl. There were some that left the factory with a "T" or a "U" - standard 440 and 440 HP, or "TNT" in Chrysler speak. The rarest were the "N" cars, 383 HPs. You have one. I was really hoping it was an L.

Do you still have the 383?

Just so we are clear. I, did not pull the 383. The pink slip I signed was last dated in 1992, and the transplant occurred before that. For need or want, I do not know. The original 383 is long gone. In its place is a supposedly professionally rebuilt 440 with less than 20,000 miles. When it ran it didn't burn a drop of oil and ran incredibly strong. The only reason I was able to buy this car is because I became friends with the owner after purchasing the '71 Newport in the background. The Convertible was and is still half stripped. It took me three trips to complete the purchase. Pieces were stashed in random places all over his property. This car was sitting in a field for almost 25 years. I always go for the stock set-up, my '71 Polara and New Yorker are testament to that. Also why I am doing this change back. What ignition are you running?

 

[Snotty]

Ah, very well. My car is an "L" but the original owner would not buy it unless they dropped a 440 in it. Viola, another 383 bites the dust. I would LOVE to put a 383 HP in this car.

 

[Snotty]

Most dont realize how few 383-4 C's were built . So, so few

Absolutely. I saw a guy selling a '70 Newport "N" 'vert on eBay. He had a picture of the fender tag. It had a build date of 701! Mine is 630. He had a bid of $3,500 at the time. I wrote him and told him he had a very rare Newport, and suggested he cancel the auction and relist his car as a 383HP and possibly one of the last Newport ragtops made. Never heard from him.

A friend of mine had one, an early '70, but also a ragtop with an N. He wanted to put a 440 in it. He had no idea those were rare cars. In the end he sold it. He had a good deal on a '68 Road Runner ragtop, so I didn't blame him. Ha!

He offered the car to me for a great price but I couldn't afford it.

 

[Snotty]

What ignition are you running?

Sorry, I just saw your question.

I'm running Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition. I have converted all of my points cars to such. I even converted the '79 Cordoba I had to it; had to dump that Leanburn crap! Had to put it all back on every two years for a Smog check! Sheesh!

In the '62 New Yorker I had, I used the MP control module and ballast resistor, but used a distributor from a standard 440 electronic ignition system - pre-leanburn. Worked fine!

 

[70bigblockdodge]

. I even converted the '79 Cordoba I had to it; had to dump that Leanburn crap! Had to put it all back on every two years for a Smog check! Sheesh

I wonder is you hid everything well like leave the lean burn box on air cleaner and put a fake vacuum hose to the canister on the box if techs nowadays would even know what was stock and what's not (as long as it is obvious). It would be easy to roll the timing back and clean up the HC.

 

[polara71]

Absolutely. I saw a guy selling a '70 Newport "N" 'vert on eBay. He had a picture of the fender tag. It had a build date of 701! Mine is 630. He had a bid of $3,500 at the time. I wrote him and told him he had a very rare Newport, and suggested he cancel the auction and relist his car as a 383HP and possibly one of the last Newport ragtops made. Never heard from him.

A friend of mine had one, an early '70, but also a ragtop with an N. He wanted to put a 440 in it. He had no idea those were rare cars. In the end he sold it. He had a good deal on a '68 Road Runner ragtop, so I didn't blame him. Ha!

He offered the car to me for a great price but I couldn't afford it.

One of nineteen N's...... my plans have been scuttled again, I just cant do it ..So, she will get restified and I'll be happy

 

[Mopar Madness]

This thread has every thing in it to make the the top 10 list great information and input from all of the members. Thanks Guys Great info!!!

 

[3C's & a D?]

One of my dual quote posts didn't format very well. In it I mentioned that the fusible link was replaced with 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp fuse. I forgot about that and thought perhaps it could be related? Anyhow the distributor came in today for Winnipeg without a vacuum advance. One from Ontario will be in next week. I installed a bad one I had to set the points, and installed the new distributor and original wiring. Turned the key, blew the "fusible link" fuse. Removed distributor wire from coil, engine turns over. Put wire back, blow fuse again. What gives? I'm going crazy here! Oil light and accessories work in run, as soon as you touch start the fuse pops. Thanks in advance.

 

[Snotty]

I wonder is you hid everything well like leave the lean burn box on air cleaner and put a fake vacuum hose to the canister on the box if techs nowadays would even know what was stock and what's not (as long as it is obvious). It would be easy to roll the timing back and clean up the HC.

People do that, but the dual-snorkel air cleaner I used would have been a giveaway!

 

[3C's & a D?]

So, I installed a 40 amp mega fuse as a fusible link. Now it's turning over, but no spark? Install pertronics, no spark. Go back to electronic distributor, now spark but still not catching. Tried the four wire arrangement and in doing so didn't understand why it wasn't done that way first off. Still no dice. I have spent alot of time and money trying to get this right and am seriously frustrated. Usually "working" on my cars leads to tangible results. I think I need to have someone else look at it.