Machining work 516 heads port work/bigger valves/hardened seats??

[fury fan]

I agree, that rebuilding a 361 is not worthwhile - unless doing 'an Uncle Tony' to make it a non-oil burner and minimize cost.
There's no panache of doing a 361, unless it was a #s matching original Sonoramic Commando crossram engine.

If going thru a machine shop, do a 383 or 400 to get hte extra CID (somebody mentioned this). Find out which one has better piston selection and then seek a local core engine.

10 sec ET in an 1/8th mile equals ~15.6. That works out to as SLOW AF.

Ha, ha. IIRC that was Hurst 300 territory back in the day. Not bad for a 318 with a homebrew rebuild (I presume that is in UTG's white 4dr Satellite?). Esp if it was an LA 318 (instead of a Magnum).

 

[Big_John]

Not bad for a 318 with a homebrew rebuild (I presume that is in UTG's white 4dr Satellite?)

I think that car went a little faster, mostly because of the spray.

He's interesting though. It's backyard builds with minimal tools and there's a place for that.

 

[fury fan]

It's backyard builds with minimal tools and there's a place for that.

Agreed. Anybody can do things 'the right way' by throwing enough money at it. I'm always more intrigued by guys who make things work.

 

[Finsinthemirror]

I agree with finding a mid-late 60's factory 383 preferably a factory 4bbl motor as close to untouched virgin as possible. My car is also a small displacement early big block... so many more options for less cost with a 383 AND being a 64 you won't have to contend with the early crank being an issue. 64 will be bolted to the flexplate just like the later 60's motors.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I think that car went a little faster, mostly because of the spray.

He's interesting though. It's backyard builds with minimal tools and there's a place for that.

Now that I've got Trudi's front end in good shape, I'll return to my 383 build. I'll get the crank and pistons out, then take the block to a nice BATH, looking for defects. If this one is serviceable, then I'll start with it. I have 2 more B blocks if this one isn't good for aught but scrap too.... I now recall paying the guy $50 for the steel crank in it. That's what I got it for, the crank. Bores look good all the same.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

I agree with finding a mid-late 60's factory 383 preferably a factory 4bbl motor as close to untouched virgin as possible. My car is also a small displacement early big block... so many more options for less cost with a 383 AND being a 64 you won't have to contend with the early crank being an issue. 64 will be bolted to the flexplate just like the later 60's motors.

Hello sir.

Great to hear from you again, I agree the consensus is to go for the more plentiful 383's, but my vision of the car would otherwise not be viable.

Reason I'd like to stick with the 361, it's got enough cubes to get a good amount of torque for around town driving, and while not everyone thinks of MPG's when they hear "big block"

The 361 will be more daily driver friendly as I have planned for it, and other experiences I've attained for about 10 years of ownership.

The Dodge with the 361 currently has managed to hit 21 MPG, not bad I'd say considering a modern 2005 Chevy Tahoe gets about the same MPG's.

And also not everyone builds up a 361, it's one of those engines that's overshadowed by it's bigger cube brothers.

Anywho, I don't intend to downplay anyone that's suggesting a 383, it's obviously the better choice in most cases, just not the engine cubes I had in mind for this project.

Your early big block is the 350 correct? I don't want to even think about attempting to source the pistons. I guess EGGE engines probably would make custom pistons for a 350.

 

[Finsinthemirror]

I guess I misunderstood your plan. My only point is that a 383 is a fantastic replacement, will be easier for parts sourcing, much easier with parts affordability, and more responsive to potential power upgrades. Additionally in your case you have wide range of years to choose from that will drop right in and if properly dressed, would be visually indistinguishable from the 361. There is no reason a 383 can't get 15-20 mpg as a driver depending upon build and tune. I did this swap in my old 62 Chrysler, the 361 was too well used and it got swapped with a much peppier low mileage 383 which got a general overhaul and completely rebuilt heads with new everything and hardened seats. It's all upside but I defer to what you have in mind. It's true that people don't build 361s much, they used to before they had other options like the 383, 413, 426, and 440. Yes my newest has the 350, the first big block. I don't want to source pistons either lol, it has 15k actual miles so hopefully it won't need them. I wouldn't hesitate on finding a 59/60 B series 383 though if necessity required it as a replacement. I can dress it 100% like the 350 and be fine at a glance. Fuel economy won't be part of it.. there are one too many carter afb's for that.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

I guess I misunderstood your plan. My only point is that a 383 is a fantastic replacement, will be easier for parts sourcing, much easier with parts affordability, and more responsive to potential power upgrades. Additionally in your case you have wide range of years to choose from that will drop right in and if properly dressed, would be visually indistinguishable from the 361. There is no reason a 383 can't get 15-20 mpg as a driver depending upon build and tune. I did this swap in my old 62 Chrysler, the 361 was too well used and it got swapped with a much peppier low mileage 383 which got a general overhaul and completely rebuilt heads with new everything and hardened seats. It's all upside but I defer to what you have in mind. It's true that people don't build 361s much, they used to before they had other options like the 383, 413, 426, and 440. Yes my newest has the 350, the first big block. I don't want to source pistons either lol, it has 15k actual miles so hopefully it won't need them. I wouldn't hesitate on finding a 59/60 B series 383 though if necessity required it as a replacement. I can dress it 100% like the 350 and be fine at a glance. Fuel economy won't be part of it.. there are one too many carter afb's for that.

Hello sir.

Very much true on everything you have said, from parts that the 383's will accept is much broader than the smaller cubes counterparts.

One excuse if I may, there were a couple 383's that I have perrused, but they were either too far for me to come and pick it up or the shipping costs were too expensive, or other times the block was cracked and the seller did not mention any of it.

And that's not mentioning the 383's that were left in the weather I found with rust mounds in the cylinders YUCK! At least it was $100...

The spare 361 I have bought came out of a supposed low mileage 65/70K mile car.
It wasn't bad considering my gamble chances I had with the 383's I had found.

From cracked blocks to the too good to be true deals.
Sketchy online shopping at it's finest.

That's pretty neat with 15K low miles, is it mostly garage kept and only goes out once a month or so? Or is the engine shelved in the garage as a survivor engine?

Who knows, I may return to this again few years down the line if I do plan on building another engine, 383 is in my sights now, maybe the 400 and make it a stroker.

 

[Finsinthemirror]

Well, I'm not sure $100 covers a good engine, I think those days are close to over. I think you'll need to be prepared to spend a little more on both an engine and consider shipping. It's just part of it, these are cars and maybe worse than that they're Mopars lol. You need to be looking for a 65-71-ish Newport. People weren't out abusing the hell out of full size Newports.. mostly... I am certain you'll find one but you need to be prepared to spend more than a couple hundred especially if you find a verifiably running motor, and you will find one. It might come with a car attached to it... Put yourself together a want ad on here, see what you can find as close to you as possible. You probably know everything I just suggested but it's just something to consider.
My Fury was driven and drag raced until 1961, shut off and replaced with a smaller Plymouth. There was a level of disassembly underhood but it's a largely untouched and a very original car. It's nowhere close to perfect but it was an amazing find. One owner, all the original documentation was with it. It was a unicorn, rarer than a once in a lifetime find in my opinion. It checked all the boxes for me and then some. Not tryin to hijack your thread, you asked!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Hello sir.

Very much true on everything you have said, from parts that the 383's will accept is much broader than the smaller cubes counterparts.

One excuse if I may, there were a couple 383's that I have perrused, but they were either too far for me to come and pick it up or the shipping costs were too expensive, or other times the block was cracked and the seller did not mention any of it.

And that's not mentioning the 383's that were left in the weather I found with rust mounds in the cylinders YUCK! At least it was $100...

The spare 361 I have bought came out of a supposed low mileage 65/70K mile car.
It wasn't bad considering my gamble chances I had with the 383's I had found.

From cracked blocks to the too good to be true deals.
Sketchy online shopping at it's finest.

That's pretty neat with 15K low miles, is it mostly garage kept and only goes out once a month or so? Or is the engine shelved in the garage as a survivor engine?

Who knows, I may return to this again few years down the line if I do plan on building another engine, 383 is in my sights now, maybe the 400 and make it a stroker.

You might do well to get Chevy pistons to fit your 361, if for some reason you have difficulty finding original made to the purpose ones. A Chevrolet 400 uses 4 1/8" bore pistons. A local mech engineer and serious Old Hemi enthusiast used Chevy pistons to get his mid 1950s Hemi V-8 rebuilt, and, with EFI and a turbo, it produces LOTS of power. It's a one-off motor of course, but it keeps him happy. I hope he's still breathing now.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Well, I'm not sure $100 covers a good engine, I think those days are close to over. I think you'll need to be prepared to spend a little more on both an engine and consider shipping. It's just part of it, these are cars and maybe worse than that they're Mopars lol. You need to be looking for a 65-71-ish Newport. People weren't out abusing the hell out of full size Newports.. mostly... I am certain you'll find one but you need to be prepared to spend more than a couple hundred especially if you find a verifiably running motor, and you will find one. It might come with a car attached to it... Put yourself together a want ad on here, see what you can find as close to you as possible. You probably know everything I just suggested but it's just something to consider.
My Fury was driven and drag raced until 1961, shut off and replaced with a smaller Plymouth. There was a level of disassembly underhood but it's a largely untouched and a very original car. It's nowhere close to perfect but it was an amazing find. One owner, all the original documentation was with it. It was a unicorn, rarer than a once in a lifetime find in my opinion. It checked all the boxes for me and then some. Not tryin to hijack your thread, you asked!

View attachment 724185

Hello sir,

Agreed on finding a good engine for $100 range may be long gone now, even a slant-6 even fetched a price of $200 in my searches.

Oh no, not at all sir, I don't know everything, I'm still a greenhorn among these Mopars & a broke college student to boot, that being said the rebuild is going to take more time than the average guy to get done.

So the Fury was raced back in 1961?
Original documentation is always the icing on the cake to all of these Mopars
You kind of figure what it ran, maybe 13's 15's or 16's second?

 

[Finsinthemirror]

Check your PMs.. this is your thread..