Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop

[owen martin]

Nice progress and detailed photos. I am taking notes while waiting for SMS.

Was the vinyl top tucked under the drip rail....is that why you are removing that....or just for paint? On my 73, it looks like the vinyl stops short of the drip, but that might be because it's shrunk....hard to tell.

If Soft-Seal comes through for you, I might pick up a pair of roof rail 'strip just to have on hand.

That reminds me, QQE was working on catwhiskers for me; I need to check in with them and will let you know in case those are on your list.

No idea.

Hello there , it’s Owen here and I’ve got similar issues of rear windshield rust around my 67 Monaco 500 I have yet to repair/restore! How did you get you get the window out without breaking it as I understand they are glued or caulked in and no rubber seal as is the front windshield? Also I would like to know who 73NYB Metals is that makes those small repair trims for the rust repair and how easy is it to pull the rail trims off to run the vinyl top around it for proper sealing and longevity? Thanks for the good discussions and info

Not yet. My thinking at this stage is to get the correct material and have it correctly reproduced by an upholsterer/top specialist. @73Coupe has now struck out twice with SMS, so I am thinking of getting the material from them and hiring someone to do it properly.

Meanwhile, repair work is progressing apace on the top. @71Polara383 has sent me the pictures below. The good news is that the rust we have found is limited to the lower left corner of the rear window and to a few spots due to rust out of the moulding/trim clips. Here are some photos of the main rust area right after pulling the vinyl, after cleaning before repair, and during repair. Those small metal patches aren't welded into the corner yet, but I like those handmade patches from 73NYB metal. Once welded, the should blend in completely:
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Here is another issue that Wyatt is now fixing. It seems it rusted right at the clips under the back window. Wyatt needs to whip up a few more patches for the rust around the clips:
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The clips are indeed in poor shape, which was to be expected:
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Thanks to @Analog Kid , who identified and vouched for a source on eBay, I have ordered the correct large clips (12 needed), small clips (ditto), and screws.

 

[owen martin]

Hello , I sure liked your pictures of the rear rust damage and repair to your 73 coupe but I’m Wondering how you got the rear windshield out without breaking it as I hear they are glued/caulked in and there is no rubber gasket!? Also where did you get those replacement metal trims to weld in?

 

[owen martin]

Who is 73NYB Metals that made up those small to weld in pieces for that rear windshield trim rust? I’m hoping the vinyl I bought is enough to wrap around the sill for proper install too

 

[ayilar]

I sure liked your pictures of the rear rust damage and repair to your 73 coupe but I’m Wondering how you got the rear windshield out without breaking it as I hear they are glued/caulked in and there is no rubber gasket!? Also where did you get those replacement metal trims to weld in?

It's a '72, although a '73 would be the same. @71Polara383 gets all the credit for the careful removal and welding, so I'll let him chime in.

Who is 73NYB Metals

73NYB Metals? You lost me there.

 

[71Polara383]

Who is 73NYB Metals that made up those small to weld in pieces for that rear windshield trim rust? I’m hoping the vinyl I bought is enough to wrap around the sill for proper install too

All you need is 2 people. (Or 4 hands) Braided wire made to remove glass and 2 sets of vise grips. Oh and some confidence/patience.

Rear windows hardly ever break unless you are being really careless. The side/rear glass explodes into the tiny little squares and you'd really have to flex it or smack it hard to make that happen.
Windshields however are made of 2 thinner layers and the laminated layer between to keep the glass intact. They are easier to break and sometimes it just happens unintentionally.

 

[LocuMob]

Wondering how you got the rear windshield out without breaking it as I hear they are glued/caulked in

I took my sweet time and cut the caulk (and I had a gasket, '66 Dodge) with a sharp utility knife. I made many passes and worked my way through the material until the glass was free. Like @71Polara383 said, patience.

 

[ayilar]

Here are the material samples from SMS, next to the originals. They seem to be perfect matches, just what I'd hoped. I shall now order from SMS (i) the vinyl materials for the front seats and top, so that the shop recommended by @david hill in Indianapolis can do the cutting/sewing/fitting work, and (ii) a full new headliner from SMS. The latter is in good shape save for one small tear, so I can take my time to have it done just right.

1. G6X9 headliner (the photos and fingers are @71Polara383's):

2. G6X9 seats:

3. V1Y vinyl top

Note that both the original and SMS top vinyls have greenish tinges. It is slightly stronger on the original, consistent with the notion that there ought to be some green shift over time (due to discoloration of the original).

I am happy.

 

[tallhair]

Very good thread. I really like the car and you and Wyatts teamwork

 

[JBR MA]

Materials look like perfect matches and looking forward to seeing the new materials on and in the car.
Enjoy watching the cars progress, looking forward to seeing as progress continues.

 

[ayilar]

I just placed an order with SMS. Was told both by Doug (over email) that the top would be done well under two months. Leslie (over the phone) told me that the headliner should take only about 2 weeks. On that basis, I have ordered the pre-made headliner and vinyl top. Fingers crossed that things are correct and timely!

 

[78Brougham]

Leslie (over the phone) told me that the headliner should take only about 2 weeks

Hook, line and sinker....

They only tell you that so they can run your credit card and not hang up!

Seriously, nice job. She's gonna look great!

 

[Fred]

All you need is 2 people. (Or 4 hands) Braided wire made to remove glass and 2 sets of vise grips. Oh and some confidence/patience.

Rear windows hardly ever break unless you are being really careless. The side/rear glass explodes into the tiny little squares and you'd really have to flex it or smack it hard to make that happen.
Windshields however are made of 2 thinner layers and the laminated layer between to keep the glass intact. They are easier to break and sometimes it just happens unintentionally.

I've used piano wire before with good results.

 

[chrysler_fan]

beautiful 72 hard top I learned to drive on my grandfather's 1972 Honeydew Imperial LeBaron. It had green top and green cloth brocade interior. Loved that car. My grandfather died about 6 months after they got it for their 50th wedding anniversary. I took it in May 75 to senior prom for my current wife (of 43 years at end of this month) and I's first date

 

[JBR MA]

Hello! How did the install go on the top? Did you decide to paint the top as additional insurance?

 

[ayilar]

Hello! How did the install go on the top? Did you decide to paint the top as additional insurance?

The top has yet to be received from SMS. If it is not in by endFebruary, then I may order the material itself and have it sewn by the shop.

 

[saforwardlook]

The top has yet to be received from SMS. If it is not in by endFebruary, then I may order the material itself and have it sewn by the shop.

Do you know if the shop you are considering can make the seams like the originals that seem to be heat treated as part of the joining process?

 

[ayilar]

Do you know if the shop you are considering can make the seams like the originals that seem to be heat treated as part of the joining process?

I believe so. I picked the shop on @david hill's recommendation. If you have suggestions or links/materials that I could suggest to the shop just in case, that would be great.

 

[saforwardlook]

I believe so. I picked the shop on @david hill's recommendation. If you have suggestions or links/materials that I could suggest to the shop just in case, that would be great.

I really don't have any reference material Ayilar. I think it might have been John who is also looking for that same vinyl top as you are that asked that question earlier (with the light yellow 73 NYB).

 

[ayilar]

I really don't have any reference material Ayilar. I think it might have been John who is also looking for that same vinyl top as you are that asked that question earlier (with the light yellow 73 NYB).

Thank you. @73Coupe sent me the drawings and measurements he'd sent to SMS (after they botched the top twice), and I shared those with SMS to reinforce the fact that his and my tops should have the same exact dimensions.

My plan, if SMS does not come through with the finished top, is to get the material in the right quantity and to show the shop the original seams and the drawings. Hopefully that will work.

 

[ayilar]

Good news: The V1Y top has arrived, and it looks like it will work. Good, all in all "just" 2.5 months including the holiday period and despite Covid!

There sure is no excess of material at the front, but @71Polara383 thinks that it will be fine once it's smoothed out and glued down. He sent me the photos below, and he says that the seams are perfect matches for the originals.

@73Coupe -- thanks a million again for your help in this process, including sharing your diagrams.