new carb for a 440...recommondations

Looks like Edelbrock claims you need a 3/4" spacer to clear. Per the JEGS site.
 
I'm not using one at all. Fits right on very well. A potential problem with raising your air clearer is it hitting the hood of your car.
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Well, I'll just purchase it in case I need it. If not, I'll either return or just hold on to it. Next I have to find some of that black crinkle paint for my air cleaner....
 
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Let me know when and where you do as I need to repaint mine. Under the pie pan it is coming off.
Will do.

If you don't mind me asking, to what did you run your positive wire for the electric choke? Want to make sure I have a good source of power.
 
Will do.

If you don't mind me asking, to what did you run your positive wire for the electric choke? Want to make sure I have a good source of power.
Good question; I'll have to look. A buddy of mine did the wiring when the "manual" wouldn't work.
 
I ran mine to the run side of the ballast resister. Needs constant 12v to operate properly...
 
I snapped up a couple of cans of this when I saw it on the clearance shelf at the Home Depot.
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I haven't used it yet and I don't remember what brand I've used in the past. I do remember having to heat the parts after spraying to get them to wrinkle. This Rustoleum product says nothing about heating unless the first attempt is inconsistent or has smooth spots in which case they say to spray unwrinkled or uneven areas with another coat and then force them dry with a heat source and they should wrinkle in 15 minutes.
I have to do the air cleaner from my vert at some point and was planning on giving this stuff a try, hopefully it works.
 
UPDATE: (for those somewhat interested) So...I ended up purchasing the Edelbrock Thunder series 1806. It's the 650CFM model. I thankfully ordered it through Summit Racing. I say thankfully because after prepping the carb and everything else for installation, I go to put it on the manifold studs and...it doesn't fit. It goes down part of the way, but it wasn't really that close to the manifold. So I check the studs. They're new and look fine. Thinking they might be the wrong size, I do some searching and realize they're not. I then look at the carb. Specifically, the holes on the base plate.

On these Edelbrock carbs, there's 2 sets of holes on the base plate, obviously for manifolds with a tighter bolt pattern. The 440 application uses the "outer" holes. Well, upon looking at these holes, I notice that one of the outer holes is literally 1/8" lower than the hold next to it. And hence, why the carb doesn't fit on the studs. There's not a lot of room for error of it being a perfect square, and this is far from perfect.

So I call up Summit on Saturday. They tell me it will go out Monday and I'll have a new carb in hand on Tues. It didn't go out til Tuesday, but whatever. I got it yesterday. Pull it out of the box, don't prep the carb as I want to just see if it fits. Summit sent me some new studs free of charge, so I take the new "old" ones out of the manifold and put the new ones in. I drop the carb down and... ... same problem. I look at the carb base, and AGAIN, one of the outer holes it 1/8" off.

I call Summit again. After them figuring out it's the right carb for a 440 (it obviously was; I did my research before ordering), they pretty much tell me my best bet is to just drill out one of the holes (or a couple if needed) for it to fit. So I have that to look forward to this evening.

On top of that, I need to make sure I get the throttle linkage hooked up correctly and then find a positive charge wire for the electric choke. The accompanying video states to plug it into the fuse box, but I don't think there's any way that short wire they supplied will reach, and I'd rather not be splicing wires together for this, so I might just find a wire near that would work well.

In any event, I'm not impressed with this carburetor so far.

Good times.
 
so I might just find a wire near that would work well.
As mentioned by Doba above, you can tap off the ballast resister on the hot side thst becomes engergized with the ignition on.

RE: Holes.
Edelbrock has made a hundred billion gazillion Performer and Thunder series. Seems strange that they didnt get yours right. Your manifold, maybe?
 
As mentioned by Doba above, you can tap off the ballast resister on the hot side thst becomes engergized with the ignition on.

RE: Holes.
Edelbrock has made a hundred billion gazillion Performer and Thunder series. Seems strange that they didnt get yours right. Your manifold, maybe?

My manifold looks fine. I looked over the Holley that was on there and the holes don't look elongated or out of sorts. Plus the Holley that was on there wasn't the original carb for this engine, so it's not like it's only had one carb on it its entire life.

If I took a pic of the holes, you'd see how off line the one is.
 
I just spoke with someone directly at Edelbrock. He's never heard of this issue either. I'm going to take a couple of pics of both carbs (I still have the original one Summitt sent me until tomorrow) to send to him. So the saga continues....
 
OK, I found a pic of the troubled corner. The holes on the other three corners are parallel with each other (or at least very close).

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I have 3 Eddys on BB Mopars right now and 2 on the shelf and I can honestly say I've had any problems installing them on either factory square bore manifolds or Eddy Performers. Are you using a spacer between the intake and carb? Need a picture of your intake to compare.
 
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