New Member, New Polara

[Stev]

Your door plate says the car has a 383. (Letter G)

The fender tag data plate can be decoded by a number of people here so I won't try, as I'll likely get it wrong.

Regarding the paint - your car has had some work done on the engine bay, as it technically should be body colour all the way - no blackout used except on the front of the radiator support behind the grille. Your front inner fenders and firewall are black, which is not seen on 66 C bodies. Always body colour.

Your engine is the correct for Canada red, and you already have factory dual exhaust, so just fix that up if required and enjoy it.

I'd be interested to see if it was truly a woodgrain delete car, because all the body trim is there that would have outlined it originally, so it's odd (but not unusual for Mopar) to have had that trim installed but no woodgrain. The fender tag will reveal some of that. Look under the back seat to see if there's a build sheet stuck in there. That will also be a great find with lots of info.

Keep us posted!

I'm assuming the fenders and firewall were blacked out in 2003, as the motor was taken out and rebuilt then, and i imagine that would be the best time to undercoat and rust paint that sort of thing.

I doubt the carb is still the two barrel, as it was also converted to a manaul choke. When and why i'm not sure, but it's been like that as long as i've known it. My grandfather lived in Yellowknife for a time, so I think it'd be likely it was done then for those -30C cold starts.

I suppose the rest will be revealed by the mythical fender tag.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

That all makes sense!

 

[Stev]

Alright, heading out tomorrow to pick her up. Property's been sold so it's now or never. Napa guy was real nice and had all the parts i might need shipped up, even though i won't buy all of it. U joints were 40 bucks each. Blimey.

There's also lots of furniture to take home so the whole wagon thing is gonna be handy.

Also, I know there's a spare set of doors from one side, and a hood sitting around the property. Would anyone be interested in these? Anyone's guess as to their condition.

If nobody's interested, if i can't strap them to the roof rack they're probably going to go to the scrappers or continue languishing behind the shed.

 

[Stev]

Spent all day wrenching. Car is as good as it is bad. Musty, crusty and dusty.

Firstly, i feel like there should be a cable link to the self adjuster on the rear drum. Nothing on either side.

Did the full pull. Lube, oil, plugs, rebuilt the drums, new fuel filter (inline with the fuel pump in the bay) etc.

Driveshaft has the death wobble so new u joints tomorrow. Dipswitch is broken, turn signal stays on solid (IE no flash, just on), interior light fuse is blown, brakes are still sketchy. Bled real good, but i think the master itself is fubar. But i want a dual and parts are scarce here at the edge of the world so i'm going to drive it home. It panic stops great but under constant application it fades quickly and i have to pump the pedal to get braking effort back.

Engine is solid. Runs great, it turns out to have the carter AFB, which is cool. Although the choke is jammed wide open, but it warms up really quick. Too quick actually.

I think the belts are done, i don't think the water pump is turning and it sounds like a burnout every time i rev it in neutral. Also has a weird misfire occasionally but that's it. Is the power steering belt supposed to rub the water pump pulley? I feel like that's wrong.

However it's got some serious *** cancer. Front end is solid, rear is not. It's safe to drive home but i'm not at liberty to go do doughnuts in a parking lot or something. Going to baby it home and figure out what to do.

Speak now about that hood and doors, it's actually pretty ok. Little wire brush and she's fine.

 

[detmatt]

You don’t think the water pump is turning? Have you been able to watch it while it is running? Very crusty out back!

 

[3175375]

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Spent all day wrenching. Car is as good as it is bad. Musty, crusty and dusty.

Firstly, i feel like there should be a cable link to the self adjuster on the rear drum. Nothing on either side.

Did the full pull. Lube, oil, plugs, rebuilt the drums, new fuel filter (inline with the fuel pump in the bay) etc.

Driveshaft has the death wobble so new u joints tomorrow. Dipswitch is broken, turn signal stays on solid (IE no flash, just on), interior light fuse is blown, brakes are still sketchy. Bled real good, but i think the master itself is fubar. But i want a dual and parts are scarce here at the edge of the world so i'm going to drive it home. It panic stops great but under constant application it fades quickly and i have to pump the pedal to get braking effort back.

Engine is solid. Runs great, it turns out to have the carter AFB, which is cool. Although the choke is jammed wide open, but it warms up really quick. Too quick actually.

I think the belts are done, i don't think the water pump is turning and it sounds like a burnout every time i rev it in neutral. Also has a weird misfire occasionally but that's it. Is the power steering belt supposed to rub the water pump pulley? I feel like that's wrong.

However it's got some serious *** cancer. Front end is solid, rear is not. It's safe to drive home but i'm not at liberty to go do doughnuts in a parking lot or something. Going to baby it home and figure out what to do.

Speak now about that hood and doors, it's actually pretty ok. Little wire brush and she's fine.

You could apply some bee’s wax to the water pump belt to help with the belt squeal.

savable car...

 

[Stev]

You don’t think the water pump is turning? Have you been able to watch it while it is running? Very crusty out back!

You could apply some bee’s wax to the water pump belt to help with the belt squeal.

savable car...

The pump turns but the belts are slipping terribly. I took it around the block up to about 50mph in 2 degree weather. When it got back the radiator felt very warm. Too warm to touch and too warm for such a mild outing i think.

My suspicion is that the belts are slipping so much the pump isnt effectively turning, and not pumping water sufficiently. My Jaguar has that problem at low rpm in bumper to bumper traffic, where it simply isn't getting the water through the motor. Not due to belt slip but low idle and a big pump.

Rad looks fine, no build up or crap in there at all, so i don't think it's that.

Today it's U-joints and more brake bleeding. Fingers crossed it's good for tomorrow.

My only fear now is the structure in the rear. Bringing home a bunch of junk from the estate, which is quite a load and I dread bottoming out on a big dip on the highway and ripping the rear end out of the car. It's not likely but it's not impossible.

 

[cbarge]

The the frame rust at the rear spring shackle,I personally would not put any load in the car. In fact,I would not drive it until it gets repaired.
There is a potential for the spring to go through the floor.
I would float the car just as a precaution.
But that is just my personal opinion.
Unless it is not as bad as it looks in the pictures.
Good luck with the move.
Cheers

 

[Stev]

The the frame rust at the rear spring shackle,I personally would not put any load in the car. In fact,I would not drive it until it gets repaired.
There is a potential for the spring to go through the floor.
I would float the car just as a precaution.
But that is just my personal opinion.
Unless it is not as bad as it looks in the pictures.
Good luck with the move.
Cheers

I know but i'm 500km from home with no trailer and zero access to one. The property's sold and it's gotta be cleared by the end of the week. I really have no other option.


Gonna put the light stuff in it, heavy stuff in the support vehicle andbaby it like hell on the way back.

Wish me luck.

 

[cbarge]

I know but i'm 500km from home with no trailer and zero access to one. The property's sold and it's gotta be cleared by the end of the week. I really have no other option.


Gonna put the light stuff in it, heavy stuff in the support vehicle andbaby it like hell on the way back.

Wish me luck.

 

[Bill Watson]

It is a Polara 880 wagon, and the woodgrain has been removed. Very nice car. Congratulations!

The Canadian Polara 880 did not come with the woodgrain overlay (23-23-13), or the overlay in the section of the tailgate that gave the impression of a red lens (23-54-2).

If you check the Canadian parts catalogue all the overlay pieces (pg 23-116 and 23-117) are labeled "OVERLAY, [area piece is meant for] (U.S. BUILT). The parts are listed on page 23-117 in the section labelled "Parts Not Specified In Picture".

For 1967 the Polara 880 became the Monaco, and it did have the woodgrain, same as the U.S. Monaco.

 

[Stev]

Update, still not dead.

Borked the u joints, waiting on parts. Done dozens of driveshafts the ghetto way no problem, of course this is the one i mess up. Oh well.

Brakes are solid. Master not a problem, bled it again and it feels good. Stood on the brakes with line bursting pressure, no fitting leaked.

As for the other discoveries, no idea where the fusebox is, no interior lights. Highbeam switch is seized dead, and the turn signal relay is dead. Never seen one fail so bad. Belts done, gear oil topped up. Hypoid looks terrific, zero wear, zero play in the pinion. Everything but the rear frame is as good as can be.

Spending tomorrow packing the two vehicles and saying goodbye to the property. Friday's the big day.

Wish me luck, and/or Witness Me.

 

[Bill Watson]

View attachment 355373

Found a serial number. Is there anything to decode here or is that all on the info sticker in the door

The serial number is what you need to register the car -
DH46G69 211394
D - Dodge
H - Polara 880
4 - 4 door
6 - 2 seat wagon
G - Engine - 383 V8
6 - Model Year - 1966
9 - Assembly plant - Windsor, ON

211394 - Sequential Production Number - 11,394th 1966 model car built at the Windsor plant. Other car lines built as Windsor were Plymouth Fury, Chrysler, Valiant (all for Canadian market) and Dodge Dart (US market). Windsor plant started at 200001 in 1966.

Imported models included Barracuda, Belvedere, Coronet, Charger, Chrysler Town & Country wagon, Chrysler Sport 300 and all Imperials. 1966 was the first model year the Big Three shipped cars and parts between Canada and the U.S. duty free, taking advantage of the US-Canada Auto Trade agreement.

 

[Stev]

The serial number is what you need to register the car -
DH46G69 211394
D - Dodge
H - Polara 880
4 - 4 door
6 - 2 seat wagon
G - Engine - 383 V8
6 - Model Year - 1966
9 - Assembly plant - Windsor, ON

211394 - Sequential Production Number - 11,394th 1966 model car built at the Windsor plant. Other car lines built as Windsor were Plymouth Fury, Chrysler, Valiant (all for Canadian market) and Dodge Dart (US market). Windsor plant started at 200001 in 1966.

Imported models included Barracuda, Belvedere, Coronet, Charger, Chrysler Town & Country wagon, Chrysler Sport 300 and all Imperials. 1966 was the first model year the Big Three shipped cars and parts between Canada and the U.S. duty free, taking advantage of the US-Canada Auto Trade agreement.

Lemmie get you a picture of the fender tag tomorrow, that's where the real mysteries will be solved

Nice to see another local yokel too

 

[cbarge]

The fuse panel is screwed to the dash underneath the headlight switch area.
It is facing the floor.
One large phillips screw and it comes down hanging by the wires.
Turn signal flasher ahd high beam switch is very common and cheap at any parts store or Crappy Tire.
Which interior lights are not working?? In the dash?? or dome lamps?
Pull the dome lamp bulbs and test them.
The dash lights wiggle the light switch till they light up as the rheostats usually get dirty
Hope this helps

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Good luck, hammer down.

 

[cbarge]

Jam some wood between the rear spring shackle and floor pan just in case.
I nickname the wagon "wedgewood" LOL!!!
Even if does not have fake woodgrain but has real wood wedged in the rear frame,LOL!!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

What Cbarge above said re fuse box. There are two flasher units - one will be found near the key and the other (if your car has 4 way emerg flashers) will be near the fuse box.

Keep in mind that if the tail light fuse is blown the dash lights (gauges) will be out too - it's a factory designed cue that the tail lamp fuse is blown.

If you need to remove the headlight switch, remember to release the push-pull knob and shaft from the switch assembly by reaching around and depressing the little release button on the switch This allows you to pull the knob and shaft entirely out.

If you need to remove the gauge cluster, be sure to disconnect the battery first. The entire power feed to the car runs through the amp gauge, with a live terminal on the back which can very easily be grounded out by accident - something you do not want to happen.

X2 regarding reinforcing the rusted out rear spring mounts before driving it. Don't tempt fate.

 

[Big_John]

Firstly, i feel like there should be a cable link to the self adjuster on the rear drum. Nothing on either side.

Those are manual adjusters. No cable.

I think the belts are done, i don't think the water pump is turning and it sounds like a burnout every time i rev it in neutral.

Most likely the squealing is coming from the belt slipping on the alternator pulley. Not surprising... especially if the battery is down a little. It will be worse with the lights on.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Tighten belts, use some beeswax or commercially available belt dressing. However, I suggest that you loosen them off first enough to spin the components by hand to check for resistance. You'll know if the alternater or water pimp or power steering pump is bad and you can replace them before you hit the road.

Likely the water pump should be replaced as a matter of course anyhow once you get home.